So my transfer case is leaking tranny fluid out of the front of it pretty bad. I got the seal my question is this. How are these things put together? I think it is a 241 (91 Blazer). I haven't messed with t-cases to much. Is it set up like a diff. with a crush sleeve and one bearing or is there two bearings and all I have to do is pull the yoke out, pop the old one out and put the new one in? Any help is appreciated. Thanks
CK5
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Transfer case seal question???
- Thread starter thorguy57
- Start date
I have an 87 K5 and this is how I replaced mine:
My blazer also has a 4" lift so I don't need to jack it up....but if you have to jack your rig up to work on it, use jack stands, have someone there, and put a cell within reach.
***BE SURE TO BLOCK THE WHEELS IN BOTH DIRECTIONS***
Support the transmission with a floor jack.....this is so you can lower it later after removing the crossmember. Just have it there and ready.
Drain flluid from transfer case....there are two large plugs on the rear of the case.....bottom plug for draining and top for filling...If your front case seal leaked, there's a chance tranny fluid got in to the case.
To take off rear drive shaft: There will be two straps that secure the u-joint to the rear yoke. Remove both sets of bolts (4 total) at the rear u-joint. You might have to pry the u-joint away from the yoke, and make sure you keep the u-joint caps in place (use black tape and wrap around the two exposed caps)...some fluid will leak out the back of the transfer case after you pull the drive shaft out. And there will be fluid in the end of the drive shaft but very little.
To take off front drive shaft: Remove the four bolts holding the drive shaft to the front of the transfer case. I'm not 100% sure but I think they're 5/8. Pry the shaft away from case. A good time to inspect the teeth and grease...*You do not need to remove the shaft from the front differential.
Remove the two large bolts on the passenger side of the transfer case that is connected to a support arm.
Disconnect the speedo cable.
Disconnect the shift linkage....Just remove the cotter pin at the shift lever on the case.
Unplug 4x4 light indicator (on top of case).
Remove nut in center of crossmember.
Lift tranny up just to take weight off of crossmember.
Remove crossmember bolts on both sides. (4 total)
Raise tranny a little more if needed to remove crossmember.
Lower tranny enough to get to the top bolts on transfer case.....You can only go so far before the motor is tilted so that it can't go any lower. This is not good for the motor mounts and can cause damage. Also could break something under the hood. So only lower a couple of inches.
I built a small stand, out of wood, that fits the bottom of the transfer case. I sit it on top of the transmission jack and raise it up to the case.
Remove the 6 bolts holding the case to the transmission and slowly seperate.
Replacing the seal.....There are many ways to remove the old seal....I grab the edges with a pair of wire cutters and tap it with a rubber mallet. It pops out after a few good wacks....and then tap in the new seal.
If your set up is different than mine, or I goofed, someone will chime in and correct me.
It's not hard to do....just a little time consuming.....and I like working on my rig so it's no problem.
***PLEASE REMEMBER.....SAFETY IS NUMBER "1"........LIVE BY IT....YOU'LL LIVE LONGER.***
Hope this helps
Willie
My blazer also has a 4" lift so I don't need to jack it up....but if you have to jack your rig up to work on it, use jack stands, have someone there, and put a cell within reach.
***BE SURE TO BLOCK THE WHEELS IN BOTH DIRECTIONS***
Support the transmission with a floor jack.....this is so you can lower it later after removing the crossmember. Just have it there and ready.
Drain flluid from transfer case....there are two large plugs on the rear of the case.....bottom plug for draining and top for filling...If your front case seal leaked, there's a chance tranny fluid got in to the case.
To take off rear drive shaft: There will be two straps that secure the u-joint to the rear yoke. Remove both sets of bolts (4 total) at the rear u-joint. You might have to pry the u-joint away from the yoke, and make sure you keep the u-joint caps in place (use black tape and wrap around the two exposed caps)...some fluid will leak out the back of the transfer case after you pull the drive shaft out. And there will be fluid in the end of the drive shaft but very little.
To take off front drive shaft: Remove the four bolts holding the drive shaft to the front of the transfer case. I'm not 100% sure but I think they're 5/8. Pry the shaft away from case. A good time to inspect the teeth and grease...*You do not need to remove the shaft from the front differential.
Remove the two large bolts on the passenger side of the transfer case that is connected to a support arm.
Disconnect the speedo cable.
Disconnect the shift linkage....Just remove the cotter pin at the shift lever on the case.
Unplug 4x4 light indicator (on top of case).
Remove nut in center of crossmember.
Lift tranny up just to take weight off of crossmember.
Remove crossmember bolts on both sides. (4 total)
Raise tranny a little more if needed to remove crossmember.
Lower tranny enough to get to the top bolts on transfer case.....You can only go so far before the motor is tilted so that it can't go any lower. This is not good for the motor mounts and can cause damage. Also could break something under the hood. So only lower a couple of inches.
I built a small stand, out of wood, that fits the bottom of the transfer case. I sit it on top of the transmission jack and raise it up to the case.
Remove the 6 bolts holding the case to the transmission and slowly seperate.
Replacing the seal.....There are many ways to remove the old seal....I grab the edges with a pair of wire cutters and tap it with a rubber mallet. It pops out after a few good wacks....and then tap in the new seal.
If your set up is different than mine, or I goofed, someone will chime in and correct me.
It's not hard to do....just a little time consuming.....and I like working on my rig so it's no problem.
***PLEASE REMEMBER.....SAFETY IS NUMBER "1"........LIVE BY IT....YOU'LL LIVE LONGER.***
Hope this helps
Willie
GalDemSuga
1/2 ton status
Remove the transfer case. Be sure to break the bolt for the front prop shaft yoke while the transfer case is still on the truck.
I have to remove mine again when I get home to replace all the seals.
Damn. I have to remove the whole transfer case just to change this one seal? I can get to it with the transfer case still in the vehicle. Is there some reason the T-Case has to be pulled? I am wondering if I pull of the nut on the yoke and pull the yoke out is something going to fall inside my transfer case? I know if you pull the yoke off your rear pinon it can fall inside your diff. Is this set up the same way? Thanks for the help guys.
GalDemSuga
1/2 ton status
I suggested pulling it so that you may change all of the seals. I learned the hard way by only replacing the rear output seal to the driveshaft. A few weeks later the front started leaking. Now I'm dealing with a leaking front input shaft seal. Better to change them all at once.
There is no crush sleeve. Tthe Yoke holds the shaft againt the bearing when it is tightened. Just remove the Yoke nut, slide the Yoke off, carefully pry the old seal out, carefully install the new seal, slide Yoke back onto shaft, now tighten the Yoke (not sure if there is a given spec for this or just tight). I would use lock-tite on the threads unless you use a new nut (i suggest to use a new nut).
GalDemSuga
1/2 ton status
Scott
I cant recall seeing a nut on the front input shaft. I will look at my back up transfer case when I get home. I'm currently in WV but preparing myself mentally to redo the seal change.
The OP is asking about changing the front OUTPUT seal. There is a nut that holds the Yoke to the output shaft.
GalDemSuga
1/2 ton status
Yes thats true, sorry man but my mind is slipping away. I've been trapped on this location for two days, no sleep since no one can relieve me. We are snowed in pretty good.
WV?? Man, what kind of engineering do you do? You seem to have a lot more fun doing your kind than I do.
I've been called out to some interesting places in the past to fix various types of electronics, but not so much lately. I need to see if I can't get sent somewhere. Its getting boring around here.
I found myself stranded on a navy minesweeper once when it went out for maneuvers while I was on board.
Only out for about a half a day, so it wasn't too bad. Worst part was they would not let me troll for King Mackerel off the stern....I asked.
I've been called out to some interesting places in the past to fix various types of electronics, but not so much lately. I need to see if I can't get sent somewhere. Its getting boring around here.
I found myself stranded on a navy minesweeper once when it went out for maneuvers while I was on board.
Only out for about a half a day, so it wasn't too bad. Worst part was they would not let me troll for King Mackerel off the stern....I asked.
GalDemSuga
1/2 ton status
Oil/Natural wells is what I work on. That is what my old blazer is for. She gets me in and out of remote places safetly.
That explains it. No wonder you travel so much.
Not my field.
If you need some electronics work done, I'm your guy, but I leave the big pipes, explosive gases, and mile deep holes to the guys who know about such stuff.
I've got a friend out in Tx who is in the chemical side of that business.
Sounds like you took Willie Sutton's advice and went where the money is<G>.
Not my field.
If you need some electronics work done, I'm your guy, but I leave the big pipes, explosive gases, and mile deep holes to the guys who know about such stuff.
I've got a friend out in Tx who is in the chemical side of that business.
Sounds like you took Willie Sutton's advice and went where the money is<G>.
GalDemSuga
1/2 ton status
Back to the seal. No need to pull the transfer case. Remove the front yoke. No crush sleeve. To remove the seal, get a cheap slide hammer to pull the seal. Tap the new one in straight and take your time. Reinstall the yoke and nut. Look at the seal surface on the yoke to see if it is excessively grooved. It may still leak. If it is bad, get a "Speedy Sleeve" pushed on the yoke.
litterfisher
Newbie
A few of my trucks have had leaking transfer case parts and its a pain to find good used assemblies. any one got any suggestions other than ebay?
If it works, just reseal it. Welcome to the site. I assume you are going to be at blazer bash.
