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Transfercase problems I think? Save me from the shops!

h0wl0ngcanitbe

h0wl0ngcanitbe

1/2 ton status
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Ok so recently i did a gear change in my K5, the thing has never run smoother. but whenever i would let off the throttle at higher speeds i would get alot of feed back from the gas pedal and would hear this awful grinding noise then it would go away after the speed leveled out or i would hit the throttle. at first i thought this was the new gears "breakin in" well a week passes and it progessively gets worse and worse and did it more and more at lower speeds not just freeway speeds. so i take it into the guys that did the gear change and they put it up on the rack throttled it, pulled the rear drive shaft and came to the conclusion that the vibrations were comin from either the transfer case or it was an internal driveline issue. the guy that helped me explained that the chain while under load in the tcase was workin, but once the throttle was off and their was no more load that the chain could be slippin.

any and all help would be awesome, this problem has never been an issue for me and it started immediately after the gear change. the hubs are fine just had those replaced. snf the sound definitely is comin from the tcase. so what am i lookin at? new tcase? rebuild? im lost. as always thanks for any and all input.
 
could have a streached chain, could have internals that are taking an early retirement

I imagine you could rebuild it yourself witha day and under 200.00, or you could drop it off at a shop and pay 500-800 including labor and parts.

or a used case and an afternoon and be on your way, no guarantee you wont have to deal with it soon down the road though.
just because im bored I looked in the seatle craigslist..and you must live in the land of cheap 208's!

found 4 on the 1st page for a 100.00 or less, hell this one is just 50.00
http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/pts/885621832.html


does the t-case have leak? If so have you checked the fluid level?
 
hey man thanks for that research and knowledge, ya if the mechanic drops the eff bomb so to speak as in the price up my arse. im gonna attempt a tcase swap myself i think with all your guys help i could accomplish that within a day or two. thiers no way im spendin ore then 200 hundred on this project so its probably on me to get it done. thanks again
 
Were you there when they did all this "testing". I find it ironic that after changing the gears out the tcase suddenly is no good. There was nothing wrong before the gear change?

Just in case spend the $20 on some gear oil and a tube of rtv and crack that rear diff open. Post up some pics of the old gear oil color, the ring/pinion, and most importantly the wear pattern thats starting.

If it sounds like you have a fire truck following you when you let off the gas its your rear. Could be bad pinion depth/ backlash or a bad bearing.
 
In two wheel drive the chain has no tension on it , and it has to be VERY loose for it to 'slip', the teeth on the chain and sprockets are very deep, once you open the case you will see what I mean, I doubt that it is slipping at all. it could be very loose and and could need changed, you can do that with out taking the Tcase out of the blazer,but again, you could take the chain out and it will not effect the rear end. so a loose chain is doubtfull problem.
the front hub on the Tcase comes loose or gets slack in it with mileage and hard driving, that could be loose also.this is a common problem.

with the new gears it could have made the rest of the drive train seem 'looser' that is why the problem exists now,, this is all assuming the gears are installed correctly.
you could pull the rear drive shaft and put in 4 x4 and see if the noise is still there or not.
 
jwglover said:
In two wheel drive the chain has no tension on it , and it has to be VERY loose for it to 'slip', the teeth on the chain and sprockets are very deep, once you open the case you will see what I mean, I doubt that it is slipping at all. it could be very loose and and could need changed, you can do that with out taking the Tcase out of the blazer,but again, you could take the chain out and it will not effect the rear end. so a loose chain is doubtfull problem.
the front hub on the Tcase comes loose or gets slack in it with mileage and hard driving, that could be loose also.this is a common problem.

with the new gears it could have made the rest of the drive train seem 'looser' that is why the problem exists now,, this is all assuming the gears are installed correctly.
you could pull the rear drive shaft and put in 4 x4 and see if the noise is still there or not.
Click to expand...


the planataries or bearings being toast could make the noises. I also suggest having the rear gear pattern looked at.


post up and keep asking questions:waytogo:
 
I've got the same problem.

But mine started after I grenaded my welded 12 bolt through the diff cover. :eek1: :doah:
Parking lot repairs, and I drove it home 4 hours.

Hope it goes away with the ton swap!:D
 
I wasnt in the garage when they did all the testing but i did see them put the rig up and pull the drive shaft.

the sound is most definitely a grinding sound their is vibration in the gas pedal. while the truck was in the air they brought me out and throttled it, i could totally sense that the vibration was comin from the tcase or shaft.

but it is a weird coincidence that this occurs right after the gear change, ive had this thing for 6 years and never once felt this.

its gettin looked at for free at the recommended transmission shop i just want to here what they think it is.
 
i was thinkin that since the new gears are makin the rig work properly then that could be the case? im pretty confident in the work these guys did they were very recommended and all they do are differentials. i may be goin out on a limb but im sure the work they did was good. just that now the tcase is actin up.

so you think it may be the front hub?
 
so what did the traction bar do to solve it?

im thinkin its the tcase only cause when it was in the air and they throttled it it was definitely vibrating around the tcase. but ill get the verdict tomorrow then ill take her home and crack open the diffs for you guys too look at.

question what all do i need to put the diff back together? im assuming to open it up i just crack the ten bolts then shazam. any other special instruction i should take note of?

as always thanks so much im getting new ideas of what this problem could be sucks that the dam tshop is taken so long to get to it, i just want it back so i can give you guys a better look at the problem.
 
1 step at a time, lets start with the diff and go from there,

stuff you will need,

socket and rachet
scrapper to remove the gasket
gear oil
can of brake cleaner
"the right stuff" rtv, get it its the good sh!t and is amazing


pull the cover, look for any metal shaving or shiny stuff in the oil, use the brake cleaner to clean out the housing. you need to mark the gears and rotate the housing and take pics of the pattern, you can use pipe dope as a substitute for gear marking compound just clean it off afterwards.

post pics and we can go from there.


one other option is the condition of your rear u-joint, but well get to that next. and you need to check the level of fluid in your t-case.
 
Update
So i got her back from the shop, they said when they pulled the drain plug in the tcase the magnet looked like it was growin hair! so their is definantly metal in the tcase so ill have to address that. first things first, im gonna pull the dif cover off and get a picture of the gear pattern.

I dont have enough time today so first thing tommorrow im gonna hit it up here are some pics, i wanted your opinion on if the output shaft on the tcase looks alright?
The goods
picture.php

im assuming the fluid will just drain out when i crack the cover open?
picture.php

and here is the tcase
picture.php

picture.php
 
your driveline yoke is out very far!


here is the correct right stuff I was talking about, im only pushing it because I love how user friendly it is verve the toothpaste style tube style

http://www.neverseezproducts.com/gasketmake.htm


undo the bottom bolts first, I forgot to tell you to get a cheap drain pan. Just remove the bottom bolts 4 and loosen the rest, it may need a litle screw driver pry but dont go crazy or you could tweak the pan, just enough to break the seal
 
Well I hate to seem like I'm just critiquing everything you say thats making you think its not the rear but a shimmy in the rear can be transmitted to the tcase. If the rear wheels were suspended its much easier for all that rubber and air in the tires to push your vibration elsewhere.

As far as the tcase plug. Growing hair depends on your opinion of a bad amount of metal. Things loose metal all the time.
 
You're going to need some gear paint which might be hard to source. If you have some yellow mustard and a cheap little paintbrush around that will work fine.

Put some paint on the front and back of a few teeth in a row, put plenty of pressure on the carrier (important!) and spin the pinion yoke forward and backwards a few times so the teeth with paint on them contact the pinion gear. Then post up pictures here.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
38377k5 said:
Your going to need some gear paint which might be hard to source. If you have some yellow mustard and a cheap little paintbrush around that will work fine.

Put some paint on the front and back of a few teeth in a row, put plenty of pressure on the carrier (important!) and spin the pinion yoke forward and backwards a few times so the teeth with paint on them contact the pinion gear. Then post up pictures here.
Click to expand...

Yeah also wouldnt be a bad idea to drive the truck highway for like 10mins. Then crack the diff open real quick. That way the gears will be expanded and make easier contact.
 
my truck does the same thing, ive got pretty extreme ujoint angles and i do believe the pinion depth is wacked. although im not sure if the diff would survive as long as it has like that. i also replaced the case and it still does it.
 
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