Transmission bolts to the engine...

[dremu]

can I get them off without pulling the hump?

1985 M1009 CUCV, no body lift, and I am too lazy to pull the floor mat up to see if the hump is removable or not.

Lots of extensions, u-joints, and swearing?

-- A

 

[beater_k20]

i couldnt get at mine in the K20 at all. good thing its gonna be down for a frame off when the motor/trans come out.

 

[dremu]

i couldnt get at mine in the K20 at all. good thing its gonna be down for a frame off when the motor/trans come out.

$#@^$&^@&$ That's not what I wanted to hear

And I just realized that I took photos of the floor when I repainted it ... and it's the spot-welded hump.

This is gonna suck.

-- A

 

[broncoman6524]

i can...but im 17 and i layed on top of my motor to do it. if you pull the dist its MUCH easier. but tehn you gotta got through the bs of getting that set up correct again. lol

 

[dremu]

i can...but im 17 and i layed on top of my motor to do it. if you pull the dist its MUCH easier. but tehn you gotta got through the bs of getting that set up correct again. lol

Setting up a dizzie on my 6.2 would be a hell of a trick

Seriously, that IS a trick ... you must have SKINNY arms. Oh to be young again

-- A

 

[4X4HIGH]

I use a 2 foot extension and get them from the bottom.

 

[dremu]

I use a 2 foot extension and get them from the bottom.

Well, I may be fussing over nothing ... I just remember when I did my '74, it was a PITA, and I had the hump OFF on that truck.

If all six can be hit from the bottom, then I may be okay... thanks!

-- A

 

[clarkjw24]

Take the bolts out of the crossmember and drop the rear of the tranny down using a floor jack. This will tilt the motor and tranny allowing you to remove all of them with just extentions or long arms and standard wrench.

 

[t89blazer]

2nd clarkjw24

 

[MattK]

Take the bolts out of the crossmember and drop the rear of the tranny down using a floor jack. This will tilt the motor and tranny allowing you to remove all of them with just extentions or long arms and standard wrench.

yeah this will help, just be careful while keeping in mind that they dizzy is already pretty close to the firewall.

i did my engine swap getting to everything from underneath except the one BH bolt that is right behind the #8 cylinder. got to that one from above. i only used a wrench and a lot of patience.

when i did my 465 swap i removed the inner tunnel. used a couple extensions and a wobble, life was good.

 

[dremu]

yeah this will help, just be careful while keeping in mind that they dizzy is already pretty close to the firewall.

i did my engine swap getting to everything from underneath except the one BH bolt that is right behind the #8 cylinder. got to that one from above. i only used a wrench and a lot of patience.

when i did my 465 swap i removed the inner tunnel. used a couple extensions and a wobble, life was good.

Patience, not my strong suit =))

OTOH, the diesel is decidedly distributor-free, so I'll hafta check for other clearnace

Thanks all!

-- A

 

[colbystephens]

i've done it w/ a 6.2 both ways - removing the tunnel and not. if you get a real small 1/4 ratchet, you can get to it from the top ok. it's a pain in the ass. i was unable to use just extensions from the bottom, as there is a bolt right at the top (this top bolt is the only one we did from the top). the others can be gotten w/ a combination of extensions.

 

[beater_k20]

Take the bolts out of the crossmember and drop the rear of the tranny down using a floor jack. This will tilt the motor and tranny allowing you to remove all of them with just extentions or long arms and standard wrench.

if going with this method please be sure to remember that the bolts you are trying to access are the only thing holding the trans and transfer case in the truck. when you take them out, the trans and transfer case could very easily fall out at that point.

 

[dremu]

Well, tranny is now loose -- I had a tranny jack under it, so fear not, Beater K20, I'm still alive.

4x4High, you were right on ... looong extensions, but also: AIR RATCHET (woohoo!) MUCH easier than one click at a time with the hand ratchet

I suspect, however, I'm supposed to undo the three bolts holding the torque converter on, and remove it WITH the tranny (and t-case, as it's still attached) ... as sliding the torque converter on and off the splines for the tranny ... is an art form, apparently.

Is this the case?

Next week on Aaron's garage: How to clean up what seems to be 87 gallons of ATF leaking down the driveway...

-- A

 

[colbystephens]

yeah, it's easier when you unbolt the tc. to get to those bolts, it's easiest to remove the oil filter. also, it's easier if you have a second person with a wrench on the crank shaft bolt to keep the engine from turning, but i've done it by wedging a 3/8 extensioni nto the holes in the flexplate. be careful not to get it eternally lodged up in there tho. i've swam in the red oil too, a few times. :yuk:

 

[MattK]

yeah ive done it both way and it's definitely easier to take the TC off with the tranny.

 

[clarkjw24]

if going with this method please be sure to remember that the bolts you are trying to access are the only thing holding the trans and transfer case in the truck. when you take them out, the trans and transfer case could very easily fall out at that point.

I'm not sure what trans your working on but all of the autos I've removed have two dial pins that keep the bell housing aligned with the block. Unless your pulling the tranny combo toward the rear of the truck while as the same time removing the last bolts, it not going anywhere. The block and tranny at this point are pushing into each other. Also the "ears" of the bell house are usually craddled in the exhaust to a certain extent. The thing to remember is not to drop the tail end to the floor, just enough to get to the bellhousing bolts.

 

[clarkjw24]

I suspect, however, I'm supposed to undo the three bolts holding the torque converter on, and remove it WITH the tranny (and t-case, as it's still attached) ... as sliding the torque converter on and off the splines for the tranny ... is an art form, apparently.

Its usually best to remove the torque converter bolts first.

 

[Corey 78K5]

If it was easy they would have school girls doing it With that being said I always just reached over the back of the engine with an end wrench with good results.......

 

[beater_k20]

VERY handy tool to have...

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2DW80510&N=700+%2D111038+115&autoview=sku

a screwdriver can be used, but this thing is MUCH easier.