Transmission seal

[86chevyk10]

Im replacing this seal because Im putting the motor back in and dont want to deal with it later, when I took the torque converter off, I just pulled it straight off, my question is, does the tourque converter have to go back on the exact same way? (exact location as before as far as same spline on same spline, if that makes sense..) I know to put the TC all the way back on the input shaft but im unsure if it matters if the TC doesnt go back on exactly as it came off.

 

[bronc3buster842001]

It dont matter which way it go back on. Just make sure to get it seated all the way.

 

[Greg Ducato]

It dont matter which way it go back on. Just make sure to get it seated all the way.

Be careful changing out that seal. the pump is aluminum and is easy to scar or break the lip off of prying out a seal. The thin metal "retainer" around the seal will probably pop off with your hand. after that, tap gently around the perimeter of the seal pushing the outer flange toward the center till it easily pops out of the pump. Once the seal is out check for nicks or distortion in the seal cavity along the edge you were taping on and repair any burrs you find. It is a good idea to use a seal installer when putting the new seal back in but if you dont have one, a piece of steel tubing the size of the flange will do a pretty good job of making sure it is put in evenly. Before installing the seal make sure the spring on the backside of the seal is in place. Most up to date seals wrap around the spring to keep it from popping out when you are installing it. If yours is an earlier style without this protection, take a look inside the pump when you are done to be sure the spring is where it is supposed to be (and not waiting for you to jam it into the pump rotor when you put the converter back in). It is a good idea to scratch up (knurl) with a sharp edged tool the outer diameter of the seal where it meets the pump and use some red loctite as a retainer to help keep it from popping out somewhere down the road. You can discard the little tin retainer, it is a onetime use item and was an ineffective bandaid, you are far better off with the knurl and loctite procedure, haven't lost one yet

 

[86chevyk10]

I appreciate the info man! I was planning on removing the seal by predrilling 2 holes in the seal and running 2 small screws a little ways in the seal and prying them out with a claw hammer (ive done a few other seals that way successfully). Then replacing the seal by tapping it in with a piece of wood or something similiar in size. Im not quite understanding your saying of scratching up the outside of the seal and put red loctite around seal surface. I thought just put seal in and good to go. Maybe some more in detail about that part. Thanks for the input man!

 

[Greg Ducato]

The side of the seal seats against the inside lip of the pump cavity and when it is installed compresses to retain itself in the pump. It is this compression which holds the seal into it's cavity in the pump. Because the pump is cast aluminum it has been known to "reject" these seals when it gets good and warm and can't bypass the pressure behind the seal so we want to help it out. By scratching a nice X pattern all the way around the seal side where it fits against side bore of the pump cavity and using some red loctite we are increasing our pumps ability to hold on to this seal. We also knurl the pump side bore in the same fashion where it meets the seal. If both parts are knurled and loctited you will never loose this front seal.