Trap door fun

[K85 Octane]

Looking to get some "pre-adventure" data from those that have cut a fuel sending unit access door into their floor. Curious if you have any pictures, write ups, do's and don'ts, wish-I-wouldas, etc. I would like access to my blazer's fuel pump without having to drop the tank each time. That and for any trail fixes.


tank currently has 10gal of fresh gas, not sure if I can use a grinder for the job, has 1" body lift too


thanks

 

[Fordum]

As I have mentioned here before, my mechanic friend does a lot of them. He will charge two different prices on some vehicles depending on whether he has to drop the tank or cut a flap.
The flap is cheaper.
But, I have never been there when he was doing one. I have seen pics of some that were done and resulted in a nice smooth finish.
I think there are some pics on the forum of a job. I remember because I commented that I did not understand why the bolt heads were sticking up, but it turned out to be an optical illusion.
He had put the bolts in the channels so they were below the ribs, but in the pic it looked like they were on the ribs.

I would think, unless you had some kind of power shear, a thin cutoff wheel would do best.

 

[Fordum]

Found it.

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2747130&postcount=42

Thats the pics, and this is the discussion where I looked like an idiot.

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=291375

 

[owenst7]

I layed a soaked towel over my gas tank and did it with a grinder. My truck has enough clearance without a body lift for me to get both hands above the tank and do the hose fittings (awkwardly, but there's 4-5" of room). I then used this http://www.homedepot.com/buy/buildi...raheat/battery-powered-siphon-pump-64124.html (they're freaking awesome BTW) after pulling the sender to empty the tank in to my other truck.

Then I dropped the tank and took 1"x.120" strap and welded a nice flat square that overlapped my "door" by a half inch on all sides. I welded that to the low spots of the corrugations in the floor. Basically, I cut about a 10-12" square hole, kept the panel, and now I have the removed plate that fits perfectly and it lays on that welded strap. I drilled four holes through the filler and the backing and welded nuts to the backing under the truck. Now, I can zip the four bolts out with only a ratchet on the trail. If you're worried about sealing, get some foam door seal or slit a hose down. Mine fits so close that I'm not worried since its a trail rig.

I was in a hurry and didn't take the time to set the depth of the plate well when I welded the backing in. The weld pulled the strap so my filler plate sits a bit high of flush. Just something to pay attention to if it matters to you (all i care about is the dogs cutting their feet, but mine is close enough for that). Which reminds me, if you're worried about the strength of the backing welded to the sheet metal, I tried to fix my welding issue with a sledge and couldn't really do much without doing relief cuts, so its not going to move on you if you drop something on it like a tcase or axle.

So funny thing, I searched a bit before doing mine but didn't find much. It turned out almost identical to the pictures in fordums first link (which I just saw for the first time). I even have the same hooks welded to my bed floor lol.

 

[Stomis]

I would start with a drill bit and use an air saw with a thin blade on it. Not only will it be neater, easier to steer, and all around better but it wont shower your tank with sparks.

Not that Im one of those guys that would be scared by that. The only way grinder sparks would ever start a fire on a gas tank or fuel hose is if it was in poor condition or leaking.

 

[buefchris]

This is a 12"x12" opening with a 1/2 flange and threaded inserts
\
\Drop your tank, it's easier to weld underneath when that's out of the way.