Tricky rust spots

[cdoggwsu]

Of the many small rust spots on my Burb, the only area that really concerns me are the ones around the back window. As you can see by the pics the PO already did some work on the back corner but there are a few more that I checked out today. I scraped and wire brushed the bubbling off so they wouldn't hold any more water and i lightly brushed them with wd-40 for a little extra protection but I'd like to get them coated so it doesn't get any worse.

The problem is i can see where it's rusting up under the window trim and it's actually causing the trim to bulge out in a few places so it's definitely rusting underneath. I'm certainly not at the point where I'm ready to start pulling trim for a full on paint job but again I'd like to at least seal it up so the rust doesn't continue.

I thought about getting some silicone caulking or something for the trim and I picked up a bottle of SEM Rust-Seal for the surface spots...any other ideas?

 

[kevin400ex]

look under your windsheild on the passenger side as well

 

[sponsoredbydad]

Just be for warned Rust Never Sleeps. Hiding it from the out side don't stop it on the inside

 

[cdoggwsu]

Just be for warned Rust Never Sleeps. Hiding it from the out side don't stop it on the inside

Yup, but anything is better than just leaving it exposed to rot away.

Well aside from doing something that will trap even more water, which is what I don't want to do.

 

[Stomis]

The problem with spots like that is that water is designed to flow through the inside of the door and drain out the bottom. If its like that on the outside you can damn well bet its like that on the inside.

Honestly if you plan on fixing properly in the future I say brush it down like you did, try some marine tex over it and sand it out.

Other than that just leave it because when you go to fix it properly when your ready your gonna be cutting and welding in patch panels.

 

[tRustyK5]

Just pull the glass out and take care of it properly. You could have the glass out in less than 10 minutes. Then wirewheel the worst off, slather on the rust converter and go from there.

Rene

 

[cdoggwsu]

Just pull the glass out and take care of it properly. You could have the glass out in less than 10 minutes. Then wirewheel the worst off, slather on the rust converter and go from there.

Rene

Never pulled fixed glass before...what's the procedure?

I could foresee that ending with a bigger problem than the one i'm trying to fix.

 

[Metrodps]

Never pulled fixed glass before...what's the procedure?

I could foresee that ending with a bigger problem than the one i'm trying to fix.

Use this as a guide it is how I did my blazer solid to sliders.

Window seals 101
Here is how I did my window change as BK said it was easy to do. You will need two flat head screw drivers and spray bottle of soapy water. A very small flat head to reinstall lock rubber. *if you have a window install tool works best about $5.00 for it. Looks like a pick with a pigs tail end.

1.) looking at window from outside you will see a little metal clip in the middle of rubber at the bottom. Take a small screw driver and pop that out.

2.) You will now see a small gap between the inner rubber strip. Take one end of it and pull it out in a lifting manor (away from truck).

3.) Now you will need two flat head screw drivers. Start a few inches from the lower rear corner and insert one screw driver in under the lip of the metal frame. Next spray some soapy liquid on rubber and insert other screw driver and work it around to lift the frame/glass out of rubber. *works best going to top.

4.) Once you get the rear upper corner out it is a breeze. Keep going till you have most of the top out of rubber. At this point you can pull the frame/glass out.

5.) I took the seals out and cleaned them in warm water to get crude and old black goop off. I used a butter knife to get it clean (DO NOT LET YOUR WIFE SEE YOU DO THIS).

6.) After they were dry I put a thin bead of black RTV on the fiberglass lip and placed rubber onto it.

7.) I then placed the lip of the frame/glass in to the front corner of rubber and started to wards the rear. Using the screw driver to pop the outer lip out at the rear and worked on up and over to toward the front. *you will need the soapy liquid from time to time.

8.) Once you have it in you will take the thin rubber piece that you pulled in step 2. Start in the middle bottom and insert it into the gap in the rubber *I used a small flat head to push the upper edge down into channel. The best way to describe this motion is kind of like a wrist flick or reverse knock.

9.) Now if you did every thing right you should have a little extra locking rubber when you get to bottom *(stretches when you pull it). Cut this as close to the other end as you can (about 1/4 inch).

10.) Now you will replace the metal clip pull both ends out just so you can slide them into the clip. Now press it into the grove.

 

[tRustyK5]

What Lawrence said...cept it sounds harder than it is. I just did the hardtop glass on my blazer this past weekend. I used liquid hand soap for the lube though, and it worked really good. I'd never done it before, and didn't have any instructions...all i knew was the way the gasket and rubber rope thing worked. Really simple actually.

Rene

 

[diesel4me]

I sprayed white lube on my rusty spots on my Suburban,till I get around to doing a proper repair..been 6 months or more,and its still there and keeping water off..I used a whole can under it coating the tranny & brake lines,oil pan and other things that rot away in a year here if left unprotected..not the "right" fix,but better than doing nothing by far..

SEM made a rust converter called "Rust-Mort" that works very well...there are a lot of others like Duro/Permatex "Extend",Rustoleum Rust Reformer,and Naval Jelly--basically they all are phosphoric acid based ..

 

[ryoken]

do yourself a BIG favor and spend the $10 or so and pick up the windshield strip tool. like this one from Lisle....

makes the job a MILLION times easier...

 

[sweetk30]

i just did 2 sliders in a blazer top and a windsheild on a k30 yesterday.

total time for all 3 less than 40 min.

the tool posted for the strip / a 3-5 doller plastic tool like a butter knife / squirt bottle with blue dawn dish soap and water.

trick is lots of soapy water on all parts.

 

[cdoggwsu]

Well that doesn't sound too bad, thanks for the tips.

Does the window trim self-seal or do you need to rtv/silicone the window frame?

 

[kaharshs]

The quickest way to get rid of the rust is a $15 handheld sandblaster from harbor freight Item #95793. Dont buy there sand though, they charge like $10 for a pound. You can get a 100LB bag of #0/30 LAPIS LUSTER SAND from a local masonry/brick supply company. They have many other type of sand that work just fine. They will most likely know what your looking for.

Kyle