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trouble adjusting rockers

NEK5

3/4 ton status
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I thought I had it down pat and it was going good. Intalled the dizzy at top dead center, and put the rotor at one and adjusted the ones yours supposed to adjust, then turned the motor until the rotor was at number 6, and then adjusted the others. With the motor at #6, some of the rockers I adjusted previously were loose, some more than others.

What did I do wrong?

I installed Comp Cams High Energy Hydraulic Flat Tappet cam, Vortec heads, and GM Self Aligning rockers.
 
This is the way i adjust my valves, hope it helps

Adjusting Hydraulic Lifters On Small Block Chevrolet

This method is with the engine OFF and spark plugs removed for easier rotation.

Install all the hydraulic lifters and pushrods.

NOTE: New lifters do not have to be pre-lubed. Assembly lube should be put on the cam and the mating face of the lifters.

Install all the rockers and the adjusting nuts leaving them loose. Do not tighten the adjusting nuts before adjusting the valves. Make sure the pushrod is in the lifter and the rocker arm seat when making the adjustments.

Adjust one valve at a time.

Rotate the engine in the normal direction of rotation (clockwise looking from the front of the engine) until the exhaust lifter on the cylinder that you are adjusting just begins to move up. At this point adjust the intake valve on that cylinder to ‘0’ lash with no pre-load. Then tighten the adjusting nut ¼ to ½ additional turns.

Rotate the engine over again until the intake lifter has come to the full lift and then is almost all the way back down. At this point adjust the exhaust valve to ‘0’ lash and then tighten an additional ¼ to ½ turns.

Continue the above for each cylinder until all the valves have been adjusted.

NOTE: Rather than spinning the pushrod and attempting to get the correct ‘feel’, I suggest holding the pushrod between two fingers and lifting the pushrod up and down while slowly tightening the adjusting nut. When you reach the point where there is no up and down movement you will be at ‘0’ lash.

The problem with spinning the pushrod and attempting to get the correct ‘feel’ is that you can and will still be able to spin the pushrod even if you bottom out the lifter. This can cause you to over tighten the adjustment and can lead to bent and / or broken pushrods and valves.
 
I do it that way as well, although you CAN do more than one cylinder at a time, I need to focus on each individual, so I do it one at a time.

Not to start an argument, but I disagree with the up/down method, that doesn't make sense. The same reason you can rotate the pushrod is the reason the up/down method is no better (if not worse)...the hydraulic lifter "seat" does not use a strong spring and is easily overcome with even minute pressure.

Rotating/tightening works, as long as you understand what zero lash is.
 
I thought I had it down pat and it was going good. Intalled the dizzy at top dead center, and put the rotor at one and adjusted the ones yours supposed to adjust, then turned the motor until the rotor was at number 6, and then adjusted the others. With the motor at #6, some of the rockers I adjusted previously were loose, some more than others.

What did I do wrong?

I installed Comp Cams High Energy Hydraulic Flat Tappet cam, Vortec heads, and GM Self Aligning rockers.

Man, you didnt do anything wrong. This is what happened. When you adjust them, you very slightly compress the plunger, and it is set, or "pre-loaded" Over a few minutes, the preload will push some oil out of the lifter, and cause it too feel loose, you "bleed-down" the lifter. If this happens and you think to yourself "oh, i havnt done that one" and adjust it again, it will now be too tight.
As soon as you start the motor, the ones you adjusted, and are now loose, will pump back up, and be set.

This is very difficult for me, becuase i always second guess myself, weather its setting lifter, or locking the door to my house, i always go back and check.

You just have to have confidence in yourself, and know which ones you already set.
If they are too loose, when the motor starts they will tap, and you just simply put 1/4 turn, or half a turn till the tapping stops.

Also, if your using the regular rocker adjusting nots, and not poly locks, try to keep the adjsuting to a minimum. The old style adjusting nuts, are soooo tight on the rocker stud, that they wear away the threads fast, and your adjustments wont last long.
 
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