Z3PR
Banned
My first job was rebuilding alts and startersat a small shop. We built many high output alts. Anymore if I need a big alt, I just rebuild the one I have with the high output stator and rotor. Kits are cheap and very easy too install.
Z3PR said:My first job was rebuilding alts and startersat a small shop. We built many high output alts. Anymore if I need a big alt, I just rebuild the one I have with the high output stator and rotor. Kits are cheap and very easy too install.
79Jimmy said:RED and BROWN
RED and BROWN
RED and BROWN
RED and BROWN
RED and BROWN
RED and BROWN
RED and BROWN
RED and BROWN
mouse said:Is it possible that a fuse or fusible link blew when you tried to run it? I would have a quick look around. BTW, I waiting for the end of this story before I procede with my own swap!
Rewiring with at least 8 guage and mounting a +12VDC battery post up on the passernger side firewall or fender(basically to act as a convienient place to route and tap into +12VDC) is alway a good idea especially with this alt. upgrade. I'd hate to see you give up on this cause it really works well. If you put the original back in and it works then I'm at a loss
79Jimmy said:Well lets assume the alt. is good and check the wiring. The main bat. cable bolted to the back should show +12VDC, again referencing your diagram the #2 wire of the 2-wire plug-in should also show +12VDC all the time, the #1 wire should only show +12VDC when the ignition is in the run position. If these conditions are not met the alt. won't charge. I would first look at the fusable links up on the firewall just to the left of the brake booster then make sure the wiring at the starter is in good shape. I've had wiring problems in both these locations. If you analize the +12VDC routing of these trucks I noticed a few unnessesary "loops" particularly down by the starter which can be eliminated or at least rerouted higher up which makes troubleshooting easier. I only have 1 heavy gauge cable going to my starter nowRewiring with at least 8 guage and mounting a +12VDC battery post up on the passernger side firewall or fender(basically to act as a convienient place to route and tap into +12VDC) is alway a good idea especially with this alt. upgrade. I'd hate to see you give up on this cause it really works well. If you put the original back in and it works then I'm at a loss
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James
All my info and personal expirience is in reference to a CS 144 large case GM alternator. I just assumed that was the swap you were trying to make. Yes I have done this swap into my '79 using a CS 144 from I believe a cadillac application, but I made my own adaper harness without any resisters or bulbs or whatever. It consisted of a CS style haness (just like what is pictured above) but you only need 2 wires from it.







Fierospeeder said:im not sure on your alternator. But your alternator should only be putting out a max of 15.2 volts. i might be a few tenths off. 14.7 is average. Your internal regulator might be shot?
And when your taking voltage numbers... is this off the battery?
I am a glutin for punnishment 