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Truck Bed Floor Idea

ARAMP1

ARAMP1

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Okay, so I have this idea. The bed floor in my truck is not bad, but I want to get it lined with a spray in bedliner and there are too many bumps and dents in the floor for me to just take it in as is. I was thinking that I could just take the bed off and pound them out from the bottom, but I've been thinking of something else.

I'm thinking about using .25 inch diamond plate steal for the bed floor and the front panel. I could used boxed steal for the support underneath. I could also weld something around the edges where the sides would bolt. The only issue I see is the little humps where the fuel fillers are. I'd have to do something about them. It probably won't be easy, but it definitely won't be impossible.

Looking for thoughts/ideas. Has anyone done this before?

Bed Floor.JPG
 
You you were to use a more solid as opposed to a more rubbery spray liner (Like Line-x), you could get away with making the surface look good with bodyfiller, as that type of liner does not flex easily like rhino liner for example, it is more like an actual plastic bed liner. You could even shape a piece of wood to "block sand" the correct rib shape making several different areas on the bed easy to repair. I have been thinking about this for some time. Of course, and large dents should be pounded out. No reason to spend the money on a spray liner, and have it look like crap!
 
I just like the idea of having a more durable floor I guess. Like having a flatbed with bedsides. I'll probably cut out some holes too for some flush mount tie downs.
 
Have you seen my thread?

I used angle iron as opposed to box in my K5... and 14g.... Same principals could be used on yours...

for the filler area, just notch it and make it 2-piece with seam sealer at the joint..

pics of mine are in gallery 2 in my sig...
 
ARAMP1 said:
I just like the idea of having a more durable floor I guess. Like having a flatbed with bedsides. I'll probably cut out some holes too for some flush mount tie downs.
Click to expand...
Better idea that is faster and cheaper and still very strong:
Put the diamond plate on your existing bed floor, you already have a strong structure, and you notch at the humps to mate with the humps.
I would only do that if the bed is not rusted though if it has rust it could spread, if you have slight surface rust treat it properly then put the diamond plate on top.
That is what I would do, and will do once I get my truck going.:D
 
ryoken said:
Have you seen my thread?

I used angle iron as opposed to box in my K5... and 14g.... Same principals could be used on yours...

for the filler area, just notch it and make it 2-piece with seam sealer at the joint..

pics of mine are in gallery 2 in my sig...
Click to expand...

Damn, I've been following your build pretty closely (or so I thought) and I missed it. Right now, I'm deployed and the base's "smart filter" won't let me have access to your gallery. I'm definitely going to read through your thread again.
 
imiceman44 said:
Better idea that is faster and cheaper and still very strong
Click to expand...
It would "protect" the floor and look pretty good, but I don't know that it would be as strong. You're still using the same bed support metal. I'm thinking of using angle/box iron underneath. Your idea would definitely be faster and cheaper (and easier). Not knocking it, just my $.02.
 
ARAMP1 said:
It would "protect" the floor and look pretty good, but I don't know that it would be as strong. You're still using the same bed support metal. I'm thinking of using angle/box iron underneath. Your idea would definitely be faster and cheaper (and easier). Not knocking it, just my $.02.
Click to expand...


The bed structure is actually pretty good, it's the corrugated metal on top that is weak, and if you put a solid diamond plate on top to bridge over and distrubute the load, believe me it will be plenty strong.
 
ryoken said:
Have you seen my thread?

I used angle iron as opposed to box in my K5... and 14g.... Same principals could be used on yours...

for the filler area, just notch it and make it 2-piece with seam sealer at the joint..

pics of mine are in gallery 2 in my sig...
Click to expand...

Looks like you updated it after I shipped out. I can't see most picture here unfortunately due to the base's "smart filter", but looks like you've got a similar idea for the floor. Why am I not suprised? :D I'll have to check it out in more detail when I get back home.
 
Can you see our CK5 gallery, and just not the photobucket one? if so, I may be able to swap some photos around...
 
ryoken said:
Can you see our CK5 gallery, and just not the photobucket one? if so, I may be able to swap some photos around...
Click to expand...
I have access to the CK5 Photo Gallery. Only saw pics of your chevelle in there (which is pretty sweet too, btw). Yeah, I can't get to any photoshop, youtube, ect sites here. If you could post a few in the photogallery when you get a chance, that would be cool.

I see you went with 14 gauge steel? I think I'll be going more for the flatbed type bed floor. I was even thinking about putting in a trunk type storage area that I've seen in some flatbeds. Just kicking around these ideas anyway.
 
1/4" steel diamond plate? Won't that be way overkill? Heavy too:eek1:

It's a question, I really have no idea. All I know is 1/4" is thicker than 14ga. Just how thick is 14ga? What would be stock:confused::confused:
 
BKinzey said:
1/4" steel diamond plate? Won't that be way overkill? Heavy too:eek1:

It's a question, I really have no idea. All I know is 1/4" is thicker than 14ga. Just how thick is 14ga? What would be stock:confused::confused:
Click to expand...

That is what I was saying.
Don't get me wrong, with a big diesel pulling my other truck I am building a flat bed that can take anything, but for a 1/2 ton wheeler where you want to lighten up the sprung weight and raise the unsprung weight.:confused:
Plus with a 1/4" diamond plate the bracing of a stock bed becomes overkill.:haha:
 
I was just throwing the 1/4 inch steel out there. I really haven't figured it out yet. I'm sure when I start looking at the prices 1/8 inch will do just fine. I agree, the normal bed supports won't hold up to that kind of weight, that's why I would use the square steel tubing as bed bracing/support. Again, just thowing it out there to see what people have done in the past. I am not concerned about weight though. I just want it to last forever.

BTW, I believe 14 gauge is .0785 inch thick.
 
This is what was in the '80 when I got it..........it's Aluminum diamond plate..........still heavy when you add it all up..............


clicky clicky


 
Jefferson-Mo said:
This is what was in the '80 when I got it..........it's Aluminum diamond plate..........still heavy when you add it all up..............


clicky clicky


Click to expand...

Weird shape, what was it used for, I see attachment points on the sides in the bottom.
 
could be used for just about anything but all I ever saw was a really nice Coleman cooler............



I'll be re-using the sides and bottom on the 73 but that half-top cap I gotta sell.........................




It's a Blazer by the way,,,,,,,,,,not a pickup
 
Jefferson-Mo said:
could be used for just about anything but all I ever saw was a really nice Coleman cooler............



I'll be re-using the sides and bottom on the 73 but that half-top cap I gotta sell.........................




It's a Blazer by the way,,,,,,,,,,not a pickup
Click to expand...

Ahhhh I see, I thought it was a pickup.
So they did this as a pickup conversion, now I see why the diamond plate on the back of the cab. :D
 
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