CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Truck, I am disappoint.
- Thread starter Phil513
- Start date
That's your awesome truck rejecting the 10 bolt. I suggest at least starting to look for a better rear axle.
It may be enough to slow the rejection but only an axle that begins with 14 will solve the issue permanently
It may be enough to slow the rejection but only an axle that begins with 14 will solve the issue permanently
I was sorta expecting a pic of your 10 bolt with a new custom windowed cover. A cover leak is a bit of a let down...
Edit: didn't realize it was a pinion leak.Sucks to do right as you'd technically need a new crush sleeve and all the fun that comes with it. Some guys have had success counting threads exposed, removing the yoke, replacing the seal, re-installing the yoke and tightening the nut carefully to the same depth that it was.
Edit: didn't realize it was a pinion leak.Sucks to do right as you'd technically need a new crush sleeve and all the fun that comes with it. Some guys have had success counting threads exposed, removing the yoke, replacing the seal, re-installing the yoke and tightening the nut carefully to the same depth that it was.
I was sorta expecting a pic of your 10 bolt with a new custom windowed cover. A cover leak is a bit of a let down...
Oh, I hope it holds together for a bit longer while I save some bucks!
Mark the nut that holds the yoke
If the pinion isn't loose already, it's replacing the seal, and hoping you can get the pinion bearing pre-load just right. Lots and lots of posts on how to do this. Basically on a used crush sleeve, it's luck.
GM book-method is measure the *in-lbs* required to turn the pinion first, then do your work, reassemble, then torque a couple more in-lbs than you started with.
Yeah, I think I can figure it out. I don't really want to buy an inch pound wrench, I'll try to roll the dice I guess.
Mark the nut that holds the yoke
Yes, thanks! That seems to be a common theme. lol.
You have autozones out there? Might check with them, see if they have an in-lbs wrench you can borrow. I can't recall hearing anyone that has actually followed the GM procedure.
I've done it the "wrong" way a fair number of times without issue, but the last time on a 10 bolt, and it didn't go back together right. Gears howl, I didn't drive it any after hearing that.
I've done it the "wrong" way a fair number of times without issue, but the last time on a 10 bolt, and it didn't go back together right. Gears howl, I didn't drive it any after hearing that.
Yeah, there is an AutoZone close by, I might check with them, we'll see.
I wonder if the lift kit shortened it's life, or if it was just time for it to screw the pooch.
If it's just the seal, not sure why or how the lift could cause it to fail. Probably just its time. Stupid seals, only lasting ~30 years. lol
If you want you can bring to my shop. Message with number. On cell now. Cannot type for crap.
Thanks man! PM'd.
That's how the 1Aauto video shows how to do it. I'll give that a shot.
I've had good luck just replacing the seal.
Martin
Martin
Good to know. 1 Ton has invited me over to his shop tomorrow, will be tackling it there. I picked up the seal from O'Reilly, i sure hope it's the right one.
black dawg
1/2 ton status
You can mark the nut to pinion if you want, but as long as you use a little loc tite on the nut and dont get stupid tightening it you will be fine.
The in/lb wrench wont do you any good unless you tear it down to just pinion installed in housing.
The in/lb wrench wont do you any good unless you tear it down to just pinion installed in housing.
