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Truck keeps killing hei ign modules

Lawrence0485

1/2 ton status
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Nov 9, 2011
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Location
Arkansas
Ok so a little history of the truck. It's a 86' k10 with a very mild 350. It has an hei distributor. I bought this truck from my little bro. He had a prob with popping the modules. They couldn't figure out why it was popping them.

I bought the truck about two yrs ago and I've had good luck with the ign but. I've been through two now (one died this morning)...so it's time to figure this thing out..I always use the heat transfer compond that comes with the modules aswell. The motor has regular replacement plugs and wires if that matters. The irritating guy at the parts house said that I might be missing a few grounds..apparently there is one that goes from the coil to the distributor. The guy also said that there is some timing control box behind the glove box that connects to the distributor, he said if its bad it might be popping the modules.

I've never heard of this box..I've seen many many hot rods/stock cars with a plain ole hei and a toggle switch... They never have these issues. I'm wondering if I should try a different distributor? Also I'm not sure if this truck was always carbureted or not. I know it came factory with a 305 that is long gone

You guys have any experience with this?
 
This is the one that goes to the coil. The spade end comes out where you hook up the 12 volt source and the Tachometer. The hooked end gets screwed to the coil with the coil mounting screws.

HEI_largecapGroundstrap.jpg
 
Most guys seem to have problems with all but the AC delco replacements. I dont know why. maybe a different brand :dunno: Or another check would be voltage at the battery terminals. if its more than 14.5v your alt might be bad. most other things can take 16v or so and be alright. that module may not be one of them.
 
the ESC box under the dash can be bypassed....it is only for retarding timing in case of spark knock....it has a 4 pin connector, and you can make a bypass loop between a couple pins to bypass the comp.
 
Most guys seem to have problems with all but the AC delco replacements. I dont know why. maybe a different brand :dunno: Or another check would be voltage at the battery terminals. if its more than 14.5v your alt might be bad. most other things can take 16v or so and be alright. that module may not be one of them.

Checked voltage 13v with the engine off. 14-14.5 engine on.
 
the ESC box under the dash can be bypassed....it is only for retarding timing in case of spark knock....it has a 4 pin connector, and you can make a bypass loop between a couple pins to bypass the comp.

If the four pin connector you speak of comes out on the passenger side of the distributor on the fire wall, then mine isn't hooked up. My hei isn't the factory one. Mine is an accell, well at least the rotor/cap/coil
 
This is the one that goes to the coil. The spade end comes out where you hook up the 12 volt source and the Tachometer. The hooked end gets screwed to the coil with the coil mounting screws.

Haven't had a chance to check on this piece yet but I will.
 
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