CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Truck pulls hard left when braking
- Thread starter TSewell
- Start date
K5dreamer
1/2 ton status
Background please?
Any work recently done? has this gotten slowly worse over time or just suddenly happen? any odd noises, vibrations, lack of control aside from obvious?
Shooting from the hip, My guesses would be....
Sticking caliper - rust forms on the contact points between the two parts of the caliper. causing them not to move the way they should, and bind up. If one caliper sticks and the other dosnt, the car/truck veers in the direction of the functioning caliper, in this case, it would seem like your right front caliper is sticking. To fix, disassemble the calipers, as if you were replacing the pads. use a metal file to clean the contact points between the two halves of the caliper until shiny and smooth, and apply a silicone gel to the metal to keep it lubricated and rust free. Take the caliper pins to the bench grinder wire wheel, and clean all the rust and dirt off, apply silicone gel to these as well because the moving part of the caliper slides on these. reassemble calipers.
Leaking brake line/fitting/caliper piston - if you're loosing line pressure to one caliper, it wont clamp as tight as the other one, meaning only one caliper is working, pulling the truck to one side. repair depends on the type/severity of the failure.
Oddly worn brakes - not sure what would do this all of a sudden, but one of the above issues, if it started light and got worse, could cause one set of brakes to wear faster than the others (left to right). If you had a sticking caliper for a long time, that has come unstuck, its disk will be thicker, meaning that brake will now clamp harder, which will pull to one side.
Off the top of my head thats my best guesses.
Any work recently done? has this gotten slowly worse over time or just suddenly happen? any odd noises, vibrations, lack of control aside from obvious?
Shooting from the hip, My guesses would be....
Sticking caliper - rust forms on the contact points between the two parts of the caliper. causing them not to move the way they should, and bind up. If one caliper sticks and the other dosnt, the car/truck veers in the direction of the functioning caliper, in this case, it would seem like your right front caliper is sticking. To fix, disassemble the calipers, as if you were replacing the pads. use a metal file to clean the contact points between the two halves of the caliper until shiny and smooth, and apply a silicone gel to the metal to keep it lubricated and rust free. Take the caliper pins to the bench grinder wire wheel, and clean all the rust and dirt off, apply silicone gel to these as well because the moving part of the caliper slides on these. reassemble calipers.
Leaking brake line/fitting/caliper piston - if you're loosing line pressure to one caliper, it wont clamp as tight as the other one, meaning only one caliper is working, pulling the truck to one side. repair depends on the type/severity of the failure.
Oddly worn brakes - not sure what would do this all of a sudden, but one of the above issues, if it started light and got worse, could cause one set of brakes to wear faster than the others (left to right). If you had a sticking caliper for a long time, that has come unstuck, its disk will be thicker, meaning that brake will now clamp harder, which will pull to one side.
Off the top of my head thats my best guesses.
I'd start with calipers and rubber line (if you still got em) on the right side. Right caliper could be frozen. Rubber line can deteriorate on the inside and basically block the fluid. If caliper is leaking, the fluid will lube the rotor. Lots of possibilities, but I would still check the right side for normal operation. If that checks out, bleed master cylinder, bleed lines, try again.
FYI, if it pulls both ways, or pulls whichever way the road is 'crowned', check the toe measurement in the front.
FYI, if it pulls both ways, or pulls whichever way the road is 'crowned', check the toe measurement in the front.
I'm gonna try to "tune up" the caliper tomorrow and see if that helps. It started doing out of nowhere. I took the truck out mudding and than it sat for a week. Today I finally got it back on the road and noticed it. Thanks for the help guys.
K5dreamer
1/2 ton status
This may be premature but.... THARS YER PROBLEM!!!
my guess is rust on a caliper causing it to stick. hit it with a metal file, clean it up real nice, lube it like you love it, and slap it back together, id wager that will take care of it.
No prob.
FYI, easy way to check caliper...
Take the wheel off, stick a screw driver in the top of the caliper and push the inboard pad (and thus, the piston) back in. If it goes back in smoothly, check that box and move on. Now that there is clearance between the pads and rotor, you should be able to grab the caliper with your hand and slide it back and forth on it's mounting pins. If it 'floats' well, then check that box too. You can do both of these checks within about 60 sec of getting the tire off and fully eliminate the caliper if both of them check out.
If the piston won't go back in, remove caliper and inboard pad, use channel locks or whaterver to try to spin the pistonand get it moving. Worst case, rebuild (hone cylinder and replace o-rings) or replace.
If caliper won't float, remove mounting pins, inspect for trash (like mud). Clean pins, and pinholes out and lube with silicone brake lube. reinstall.
Obviously visually inspect for mud related issues also. Good luck
Safety Edit: IMPORTANT: Don't forget to pump your bakes after checking caliper before you start your truck or go anywhere.
FYI, easy way to check caliper...
Take the wheel off, stick a screw driver in the top of the caliper and push the inboard pad (and thus, the piston) back in. If it goes back in smoothly, check that box and move on. Now that there is clearance between the pads and rotor, you should be able to grab the caliper with your hand and slide it back and forth on it's mounting pins. If it 'floats' well, then check that box too. You can do both of these checks within about 60 sec of getting the tire off and fully eliminate the caliper if both of them check out.
If the piston won't go back in, remove caliper and inboard pad, use channel locks or whaterver to try to spin the pistonand get it moving. Worst case, rebuild (hone cylinder and replace o-rings) or replace.
If caliper won't float, remove mounting pins, inspect for trash (like mud). Clean pins, and pinholes out and lube with silicone brake lube. reinstall.
Obviously visually inspect for mud related issues also. Good luck
Safety Edit: IMPORTANT: Don't forget to pump your bakes after checking caliper before you start your truck or go anywhere.
Last edited:
Ok so cleaned the pins and lubed them. Cleane the calipers and made sure they where working properly before installing them. Put everything back together and drove it. It wasnt but a few stops that it started doing it again, pulling hard left when braking, then it also felt like it wanted to track hard right right after. Now sure whats going one. Any other ideas?
Mr. Sharky
1/2 ton status
Try replacing the brake front brake lines first. Do them first. I am pretty sure that is your problem.
The rubber ones? I have already replaced all the hard ones.
Yes,the rubber hoses...they often get soft inside after many years and can act like a one way valve--lets pressure apply the caliper,then not release it or releases it very slowly...I have one on the right from of the 93 Caravan I drine often doing exactly that..Easy way to see if its the hose and not the caliper,is to open the bleeder screw (assumuing it will open and not snap off that is!)...after opening the bleeder the wheel should spin easily if its the hose keeping the brake applied...if not its probably the caliper piston sticking,best to just replace it if thats the case,they aren't that costly if you bring in the old one for the core charge...
Thanks man. I think im gonna replace the both brake hoses and calipers tomorrow. I will report back with what happens.
Mr. Sharky
1/2 ton status
Yes, the rubber ones will constrict the flow over time due to chemicals and how it deteriorates the rubber lining. I have changed hundreds of lines over the last few years. All exhibit the same symptoms. I just replaced a set on a Blazer that was pulling hard after all the other brake components were replaced and the mechanic gave up on.
Why spin it? Just press it in with a C-clamp. It should go without a lot of resistance. Some of the parking brake calipers (like the Eldorados) require the piston to spin to go back into the bore.
My van did this. Replaced the rubber lines for $8 a piece. Worked perfect after.
Technically correct. The ones that spin are usually rears with an e-brake setup that rotates and extends the piston when actuated. I was merely suggesting you 'do what it takes' to free up the piston.
Null point now. Glad you got it fixed.
So far. We will see. Im still a little on the edge about it.
