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truck won't shut off when ignition is turned off

desertrat67

Hawk Driver
Joined
Jul 5, 2001
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Dumfries, VA
I just replaced the key cylinder and the ignition switch and it still won't shut off without running it through reverse.

this is a 90 sub with a 6.2 diesel and a 700r4.

i deploy sun morn and need to get my safety insp done before I go. help please!
 
At the base of the steering column there's one or two rotary switches, one for the starter, IIRC, and the other for the various gears, like a starter lockout for everything except P and N.

They slide back-and-forth a bit, i.e. they're adjustable ... maybe they're out of adjustment?

Also check any of the ignition-hot locations on the fuse box ... if they stay at 12V with the key off, I'm still thinking cylinder or switch. If they go dead but the motor doesn't stop ... duh... what does it take to kill a diesel? The gassers stop from no juice to the ignition, but uh, there be no dizzy on a dizzle =))

-- A
 
At the base of the steering column there's one or two rotary switches, one for the starter, IIRC, and the other for the various gears, like a starter lockout for everything except P and N.

They slide back-and-forth a bit, i.e. they're adjustable ... maybe they're out of adjustment?

Hey i got a question about the adjustment thing for dremu
My truck rolls when its in park, also everynow and then when my truck dies i can start it back up while its still in drive. im assuming that this is not supposed too happen are these problems related too the IIRC?
 
At the base of the steering column there's one or two rotary switches, one for the starter, IIRC, and the other for the various gears, like a starter lockout for everything except P and N.

They slide back-and-forth a bit, i.e. they're adjustable ... maybe they're out of adjustment?

Hey i got a question about the adjustment thing for dremu
My truck rolls when its in park, also everynow and then when my truck dies i can start it back up while its still in drive. im assuming that this is not supposed too happen are these problems related too the IIRC?

:haha: IIRC == If I Remember Correctly. That's my way of saying it's been a couple of years since I've done steering columns, and my memory is not what it ... what were we talking about?

Rolling whilst in park is a tranny issue. If you're LUCKY you could adjust the shifter at the tranny, but it sounds to me like the parking pawl in the tranny is shot. I don't go inside transmissions, so I've no idea if it's easy to fix. Except for fluid and filters, if it's inside the transmission, I take it to a shop. When on an incline (and I'm on a slight hill, so I'm ALWAYS on an incline) I set the parking brake while still in drive, get the truck settled, and then pop it into Park; this reduces the load on the parking pawl. (IIRC -- there I go again -- the pawl is a like a 1/4" diameter rod, and having three tons of truck, even through the gearing, hanging on that rod, has GOT to be hard on it.)

Starting it whilst in drive is absolutely the starter lockout switch, which is at the base of the column. Details will depend on the year of your truck, but I seem to recall a pair of ~1/4" hex head screetmetal screw on a white semi-circular plastic piece. It rotates around the column (not much, maybe 1/4" in each direction) so that the starter can only kick in P and N. May take some fiddling, but it's free and only takes time.

And for DesertRat67, you DID say you replaced the ignition switch, which I just clued in IS the thing at the base of the column. :doh: on me. I still remember it being adjustable though, so you might play with that. :dunno:

-- A
 
At the base of the steering column there's one or two rotary switches, one for the starter, IIRC, and the other for the various gears, like a starter lockout for everything except P and N.

They slide back-and-forth a bit, i.e. they're adjustable ... maybe they're out of adjustment?

Hey i got a question about the adjustment thing for dremu
My truck rolls when its in park, also everynow and then when my truck dies i can start it back up while its still in drive. im assuming that this is not supposed too happen are these problems related too the IIRC?

Since Dremu, was too kind to, I'll say it... Sometimes you'll be best served by starting new threads as opposed to hijacking current ones... :D

and DR, Dremu covered it.. process of elimination.. pull the slide switch off the bottom of the column, insert an awl/screwdriver into rod spot and operate by hand.. if it starts, shuts down, etc, it's in the rod adjustment or cylinder...
 
i'll try to mess with the switch in a bit. I also found out my SES light wasn't flashing because it was having a party. I am pulling a TPS code, so I am going to get one from the JY for now to see if it helps.
 
Since Dremu, was too kind to, I'll say it... Sometimes you'll be best served by starting new threads as opposed to hijacking current ones... :D

Ya know, I was thinking about spankin' him for it ... but I've been kinda bitchy lately, so I figgered I'd be polite for once =))

and DR, Dremu covered it.. process of elimination.. pull the slide switch off the bottom of the column, insert an awl/screwdriver into rod spot and operate by hand.. if it starts, shuts down, etc, it's in the rod adjustment or cylinder...

When you say rod adjustment, do you mean sliding the switch back-n-forth, or is there another adjustment? My memory is so bad...

-- A
 
yes, moving the switch back and forth...

Whew.

So, the question is, how DOES the switch kill the diesel? Is there a flap on the air intake or something to stop airflow? (I seem to recall deuce drivers keeping a 2x4 or 2x6 that they'd slap across the intake to shut down the multifuel engines if they got pissy.)

-- A
 
any mechanically injected dizzle I've seen is fuel killed.. usually by a plunger style, run or stop solenoid.. This is strictly marine related.. GM, no clue..

Tho Detroit's usually have the emergency flapper door on the intake too... I've heard tales of at their school, they suck a phonebook thru the motor in a demonstration...
 
No flapper in the intake. There is a fuel cutoff solenoid in the IP that shuts off the fuel when the power to the pump is cut off. Unfortunately for me, the power to the pump is not getting shut off.

I am actually done with this for now. I depoly at 0200 tomorrow(8 hours from now) and need to get other stuff done. I am going to have my wife take it to a shop and let them figure it all out.

Thanks for the help guys.

ryan
 
At the base of the steering column there's one or two rotary switches, one for the starter, IIRC, and the other for the various gears, like a starter lockout for everything except P and N.

They slide back-and-forth a bit, i.e. they're adjustable ... maybe they're out of adjustment?

Hey i got a question about the adjustment thing for dremu
My truck rolls when its in park, also everynow and then when my truck dies i can start it back up while its still in drive. im assuming that this is not supposed too happen are these problems related too the IIRC?

h0wl0ngcanitbe...

ya thats possible. also if you have your first transmission in park make sure that your second transmission is in reverse to help lock everything together.:rolleyes: heck i have even heard if your low on blinker fluid it can cause that.
 
I just saw this thread, sorry if I'm too late. 9 times out of 10 if a diesel doesn't shut off when you turn the key off it's because you have a short somewhere and the IP shut-off solenoid is still getting power. If you've fooled with the wiring recently (manual glow plug switch, lift pump switch, etc) that's a pretty likely source of your problem. All the DB2 equipped engines (6.2's and 1992/1993 6.5) are shut off by that solenoid and nothing else.

If you look at your IP, it'll have three wires going into the top. Front to back they're green, red, green. The red one is your FSS, and you want to check while the vehicle is turned off whether that one has power. If it does, you've found your problem and you just need to trace it to the source. That red wire should be hot with the key in run or start, nowhere else.
 
ya ya i get im in idiot, im still tryin to learn all this stuff. esay for you rocket science for me sorry about the inconvenience
 
ya ya i get im in idiot, im still tryin to learn all this stuff. esay for you rocket science for me sorry about the inconvenience

oh no worries dude if i havent done it someone else would have got ya. thats what were here for to give ya crap but also to help ya along with what you need. when i was new i was giving the same welcome, i looked back the other day at some of my first post and think to myself dang was i a moron:doah: so chin up just playing with ya.;):D
 
I know man, thanks for all your help so far. truly this was the best 25$ investment into my blazer i have ever made!
 
There should be a an electrical connection on or near the fuel distributor. Connect a test light to the connection and ground. If the light stays "on" when the switch is off, the ignition switch at the base of the steering column is out of adjustment. If the light goes out but the engine continues to run. the fuel solinoid is not completely shutting off the fuel. If it is connected to but not a part of the fuel distributor take it appart and clean or replace it. If it's built into the fuel distributor take the truck to a diesel repair shop. You do not want to remove or screw with the fuel distributor.
 
I figured it was awiring problem, but since I am now in Kuwait it will ahve to wait until a: I get abck or b: when my wife take in to a shop.

thanks guys, I will keep this one for future reference if it isn't fixed when I get home
 

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