bp71k5
3/4 ton status
This is a good comment. All these problems happened when the injectors were replaced and so it really points to those. The white smoke looks to be too much fuel and so the new injectors might be too large for that motor.
CK5
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Truck wont start - ideas?
- Thread starter jteck10
- Start date
This is a good comment. All these problems happened when the injectors were replaced and so it really points to those. The white smoke looks to be too much fuel and so the new injectors might be too large for that motor.
jteck10
1/2 ton status
This is more confusing. My originals were orange, and every parts website gives me red ones for my truck. When I try to put in the id# for orange ones, red ones still come up
jteck10
1/2 ton status
Were the old injectors not spraying properly? Or did you replace them simply as part of a tune up? I’d consider putting the old ones back in, but not until you set the timing. It’s not hard, and I think you can borrow a timing light from your oreillys. I’m sure there’s threads here about setting timing, or even YouTube.
jteck10
1/2 ton status
simply out of a tune up
i'll look into what it takes for timing, but at this point im considering throwing in the towel and having a shop do timing and find a potential vacuum leak
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bp71k5
3/4 ton status
How sure are you that you got all the orings and gaskets installed correctly? That smoke looks just like mine when I had an injector body leaking fuel into the intake.
jteck10
1/2 ton status
Since I did it twice, pretty positive.
Just called a friend, he thinks my butterfly doors on the intake are stuck open somewhere and there’s still fuel in the truck. Going to pull all the spark plugs and crank to see if anything else comes out
Ok your timing is off. I want you to turn the dist 1/4" counterclockwise and tighten down.
See what the idle does.
Is still to fast do another 1/8".
This should get the timing to point where we can let the engine run, and guide you through timing.
See what the idle does.
Is still to fast do another 1/8".
This should get the timing to point where we can let the engine run, and guide you through timing.
jteck10
1/2 ton status
sent you a DM
Don't give up. You're making progress and learning. Save your money, spend a little time.
The exhaust system can smoke quite a bit, don’t dwell on that since you already smelled it for coolant.
Do not adjust anything else before you set the timing and visually check for proper spray pattern at the injectors. Also verify no dribbling.
Slow and methodical will get this figured out.
The exhaust system can smoke quite a bit, don’t dwell on that since you already smelled it for coolant.
Do not adjust anything else before you set the timing and visually check for proper spray pattern at the injectors. Also verify no dribbling.
Slow and methodical will get this figured out.
Lolz_cats
Uga duga
If you replace the gasket where the distributor drops into the engine then you have unintentionally adjusted the timing. Do yourself a favor and watch some videos on the timing process so you have a better understanding how it works. If you understand what you are looking at and how it is supposed to work than you have a much better chance of diagnosing what is wrong. A basic service manual is a valuable resource at a nominal cost. Even a Chilton's or Haynes manual is better than nothing. Replacing random parts is a good way to waste money and burn yourself out of trying to fix it yourself. Watch and read all that you can to LEARN about each system you are working on and how they interact with each other before adjusting or replacing anything. Divide and conquer is a good technique. Verify fuel system independently, ignition system independently and then how they interact with each other. Otherwise you are just shooting in the dark. Everyone here is willing to help you figure it out but it is best to take a checklist style approach and work your way from the beginning to identify the issue.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Ah, I didn’t catch he replaced that gasket. For sure that’s almost guaranteed to be a problem.
@jtech10 one way to at least check it is to:
1. mark the base of the distributor (not the cap) with a sharpie right where the number 1 spark plug wire is.
2. Remove the distributor cap without taking any wires off.
3. Rotate the engine clockwise by hand until the timing mark on the harmonic balancer points to 0 degrees TDC
4. Look back at your distributor rotor to check if it’s pointed at your sharpie mark. It should either be pointing right at your mark, or 180 degrees off. If it’s not one of those two options, rotate the distributor body to get the rotor pointed at the mark on the distributor body. If you will have to rotate the distributor body more than 90 degrees, then stop and don’t rotate the distributor body and instead turn the motor over clockwise by hand again until the balancer mark points at 0 again. Then see if your rotor is pointing at the mark or not.
What can happen is that the distributor can go in the correct position or incorrectly rotated 180 degrees out of alignment. Murphy’s law says that if you don’t mark it ahead of time that you’ll always put it back in backwards.
jteck10
1/2 ton status
I appreciate the help from all. Just sucks when one problem turns into another.
I didn’t touch the distributor gasket, I just replaced the cap and rotor, not the distributor itself
Lolz_cats
Uga duga
If you didn't remove or turn the distributor and you are sure the firing order is in the exact place as before than I would lean towards over fuelling or vacuum leak. Not too familiar with the tbi setup. You can try spraying starting fluid around the base of the throttle body while its idling to see if it pulls the vapor in through a vacuum leak and causes it to idle up even more.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
That’s good, eliminates that potential problem. Did you replace all the wires at once or swap them to the new cap one by one? If you put the #1 wire back on the new cap in a different spot the timing could be shifted over even if the firing order is correct.
jteck10
1/2 ton status
i did 1 by one but made sure the #1 wire was in the same spot on the new cap. i even double checked it twice afterwards
Timing is easier than any of the work that you've already done! 70jimmy laid out the instructions pretty good.
Vacuum leaks are annoying. If I can't find it in a couple of hours then I give it to a pro
Lolz_cats
Uga duga
I've done this by accident before lol
jteck10
1/2 ton status
SHE FUGGIN RUNS BROTHER
Went to try and Figure out the high idle, and found that the butterfly doors in the throttle were in fact stuck open. The culprit? This linkage thing connected to a what I think is a vacuum thing. Put it back into place, started it, and she started up and ran perfect. Tiny bit of white smoke, drove it to the gas station a couple blocks away, filled up, drove home and let it sit warming up for 5/10 min. Now no smoke, no leaks, no smell. I wonder if letting it sit overnight with the throttle body open evaporated whatever gas was left in there.
HUGE thank you to everyone that gave their input here and didn’t let me tow it to a shop, glad I became a premium member here.
Now to finish fixing why the heater/AC won’t work haha
Went to try and Figure out the high idle, and found that the butterfly doors in the throttle were in fact stuck open. The culprit? This linkage thing connected to a what I think is a vacuum thing. Put it back into place, started it, and she started up and ran perfect. Tiny bit of white smoke, drove it to the gas station a couple blocks away, filled up, drove home and let it sit warming up for 5/10 min. Now no smoke, no leaks, no smell. I wonder if letting it sit overnight with the throttle body open evaporated whatever gas was left in there.
HUGE thank you to everyone that gave their input here and didn’t let me tow it to a shop, glad I became a premium member here.
Now to finish fixing why the heater/AC won’t work haha
