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Truck wont start..not sure what to do

Paperclip between the A and B terminals on the ALDL connector. The upper right 2 terminals in case you can't see A and B anywhere. Then you must turn the key to the ON position but DO NOT START. The SES light will blink all codes starting with a code 12 which lets you know the system is working correctly.
 
blink once and pause, blink twice then pause, does this 3 times for each code then reverts back to a code 12 once all codes have been shown.

For instance a code 43 would be 4 blinks then a pause then 3 blinks then a pause and so on.
 
Code 12 is the ECM test, supposedly if you get that, the ECM is ok. Doesn't tell you much really, but you should ALWAYS get that code. As mentioned, you need to wait for three code 12's, then the next code, if there is one.
 
So I think I may have toasted the starter...maybe...yeah for me. But I was curious so I pulled a few plugs...the #1 plug was black and it wiped of easy, plug 2, dead clean with no wetness from fuel, that was the same for plug 3(just pulled the easiest accesable)...does this sound like something? I am seriously pulling at air now.
When my buddy was trying to stat the truck I can see the injectors spraying, there is a fuel in the cavity of the intake manifold. I used an old plug and got spark.
Is there anything that I could of F-ed up when doing this swap? Here is the list:
1. Heads
2. Intake manifold
3. Felpro gaskets, arp bolts
4. Jacobs plug wires and NGK plugs at 0.045 gap
5. New belts

...the ignition modual and pickup coil were replaced a few weeks ago (per 4x4high's advice) and the truck was running great when I pulled it into the garage for tear down.
Please help...anyone down for a little visit?...I have cold beer in the garage.
 
I might be able to come see you this weekend but definately not any sooner. I have a full plate at the moment and trying to button up another engine build for Greg. If you need me still by the weekend just PM me and i'll see what i can do. I do work saturday until 3:00pm.
 
Thanks Scott. I would love to get it taken care of before that, but if not I will PM no later than thurs night.
So is there a good way to see if my starter is toast? I tried the codes (my buddy was the one that said it threw the code when the starter stoped kicking so I am not sure if its just the standard light up or what)
Do the dry plugs mean anything?
Oh...if the starter is toast...how are the high torque summit ones? Seemed pretty cheap at $120...we are 168 tooth stagered right?
Summit number SUM-G1665
 
The starter has nothing to do with the ECM. If the starter doesn't turn over at all you either fried the starter or something else has happened. Do you have dash lights still, radio? If you don't have anything that operates from the ignition switch then you may have blown a fuseable link wire down near the starter.

The starter is easy enough to remove so take it out and bench test it or have your local auto parts store test it for you.
 
Yeah...all the lights work, stereo, etc...just nothing when I turn it to start. If I remember correctly the service light comes on when you put the key in the ignition and then turns off when you try to start right?
Oh..the starter can be pulled by taking those two vertical bolts out right?
 
Thanks for the help Scott, I checked the leads going to the starter...they have juice. I then pulled it...seems to be dead, gonna run it by Winchester Auto in the morning to see if its truley dead...if so I am gonna get a new and start again on why the engine isnt kicking over.
 
Ok....so the starter was toast and is now replaced with a delco rebuild and seems to work fine. I went it and tried to start the bastard and it almost kicks but I had to retard the cap too much and I hit the firewall. So I pulled the dist and clocked it one tooth. So I try to restart and it almost fires again..sounded like a few cylinders even fired. I am at a total loss, this is the most stumped I have ever been. I am unsure if its a spark thing, a timing thing, and gas thing(seems like its dumping enough fuel)..ah whatever thing...I have no clue.
What could cause something like this? Maybe I missconnected a vacume line or something...a harness??? I really have no clue. Can someone snap a pic of the top of their engine so I can compare...maybe of the modual on the pass side of the tbi...I seem to have a small line missing on the top rear of that piece.
 
PM me where you live in San Jose. I'm positive i could have your truck running in 5 minutes.

Maybe i can make it out there tomorrow, (if i'm lucky).
 
So I just called edelbrock for ****s and giggles and they recommend .100 longer push rods when using the stock rockers. This is the first I heard of this...but this could maybe be causing my issues?...not enough air/fuel to actually catch.
 
The reason for longer pushrods sometimes is because the aftermarket head companies sometimes make the heads with a thicker deck which requires longer pushrods and also most people installing aftermarket heads run a roller rocker which is way more control over the pushrod seat in the rocker arm being where it needs to be rather than from the factory where they're "close enough". The only way to tell if you need them is to have an adjustable pushrod and check for valve train geometery and install the correct length pushrod based on your findings. I have the adjustable pushrod for checking this so let me know if i need to bring it along with me on sunday.
 
I will go out and measure the factory deck and the new head deck and see if there is a difference before I start jumping to things then. Here is what I pulled out of the instructions for the heads:

Rocker Arms: Stock (stamped) type rocker arms will require
+.100" longer-than-stock hardened pushrods (Edelbrock #9629) to
maintain proper geometry. The valve springs supplied will
accommodate valve lifts up to .575", which is much higher than
stock rocker arms will allow. Long-slot stamped or roller rocker
arms will be required if your camshaft has more than .480" lift.
 
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