Trying to help a friend, small block rebuild ?

[blazinzuk]

So helping a buddy. He bought an engine a while back. To replace one with a rod knock. Well he finally got around to it. I helped him pull it apart.

I think this engine needs rebuilt. In 3 of the cylinders there are scratches that will catch my fingernail. Zero crosshatch visible on any of the cylinders.

A couple of pics.



The heads are shot. Only 4 total valves hold liquid. The rest of them it just poors out.

I'm trying to help this guy out and before we pulled the heads suggested we may be able to just hone it and throw new rings in. I don't think that's a good idea after pulling the heads.

Pulled 2 mains and the bearing aren't awful. But not good. Most of the actual bearing material is gone right where the 2 shells join. Plus the crank has scratches.

If we just honed this and rebearing it, how long do you think it will last.

I'd rather he not blow this up. It's a 4 bolt main. Not sure if it's a virgin block. There's a 3 on the Pistons but no other number.

 

[79rustyk10]

IMO that needs bored over.

Could a dingleeball hone be run through with new rings and bearings? Sure.

I have no idea how long it might last. I would not sink a penny into the thing that didn't involve an overbore myself.

 

[yellowK20]

It’s wasted , from the pics I’d say it needs bored .

In a pinch I have used a ring ridge reamer and a bottle brush hone
, and then got some .020 rings and file Fit them to the bore polished the crank with emery cloth and put in new bearings . It was butch but it got the rig going .

Problem is the heads , you could try to re-lap the valves but sounds like they are toast as well.

 

[79rustyk10]

Upon a closer look, it appears to have spent some time with water in the cylinders.

A 260 horse crate engine gets your friend further, for less money IMO.

 

[blazinzuk]

IMO that needs bored over.

Could a dingleeball hone be run through with new rings and bearings? Sure.

I have no idea how long it might last. I would not sink a penny into the thing that didn't involve an overbore myself.

It’s wasted , from the pics I’d say it needs bored .

In a pinch I have used a ring ridge reamer and a bottle brush hone
, and then got some .020 rings and file Fit them to the bore polished the crank with emery cloth and put in new bearings . It was butch but it got the rig going .

Problem is the heads , you could try to re-lap the valves but sounds like they are toast as well.

Upon a closer look, it appears to have spent some time with water in the cylinders.

A 260 horse crate engine gets your friend further, for less money IMO.

Sometimes you just need further confirmation.

I'm gonna tell him we can do just about anything he wants, but if he insists on going cheap it's throwing good money after bad.

I sometimes doubt my first impression, we pulled this thing apart and in my mind I said well this is junk

 

[79rustyk10]

I wouldn't say it's junk, however I hope he didn't pay anymore than whatever a core is worth in your area. In all reality, knowing exactly what it is, hopefully he can get his money back out of it.

 

[blazinzuk]

I wouldn't say it's junk, however I hope he didn't pay anymore than whatever a core is worth in your area. In all reality, knowing exactly what it is, hopefully he can get his money back out of it.

Junk the way it currently is. It's a 4 bolt main, he paid 250 for it. Great candidate for a rebuild

 

[shady]

I'm not sure you could bore them cylinders enough. I'd say it may be easier to fix the engine with the rod knock. Or use pieces from each to make 1. Still money ahead to buy a 260hp like mentioned above. $1500 at jegs. A rebuild here is $1400 min.

 

[kgblazerfive]

Ridge reem it, hone the cylinders, put new rings and bearings and see what it does. That would be the cheap way that may work. Notice I said may.

For $1400 a new rebuild not bad.

 

[bassackwards]

Find a low mileage junkyard 5.7 Vortec and swap the intake.

 

[dyeager535]

Find a low mileage junkyard 5.7 Vortec and swap the intake.

Plus electric fuel pump, messing with fuel lines, etc etc.

I'd say L31 crate for $1800, but the reality is even with a crate, the "low buck" way is to replace whatever is in there, with exactly the same engine. None of that nickle and dime junk that invariably happens when making changes from what you already have.

 

[bassackwards]

Plus electric fuel pump, messing with fuel lines, etc etc.

I'd say L31 crate for $1800, but the reality is even with a crate, the "low buck" way is to replace whatever is in there, with exactly the same engine. None of that nickle and dime junk that invariably happens when making changes from what you already have.

For what? Just slap a vortec to carb intake on it and ride. Instant low buck horsepower

 

[dyeager535]

For what? Just slap a vortec to carb intake on it and ride. Instant low buck horsepower

Ok, I'll bite, how do you run a fuel pump?

 

[76zimmer]

Have you mic’d Anything yet?

 

[bassackwards]

Ok, I'll bite, how do you run a fuel pump?

OK add a cheap electric inline fuel pump

 

[blazinzuk]

Have you mic’d Anything yet?

Not yet. He is supposed to come over today and we are gonna pull the crank and Pistons and get to measuring

 

[wasted wages]

Just an FYI.... I just took a pair of heads off of a SBC that is in my LUV truck. .. the engine ran perfectly, I am just upgrading to aluminum heads as well as a bunch of other parts..

The heads are in good shape, but they are 624 heads with 1.94 intakes and 1.5 exhaust valves....76cc Chambers.
all rocker arms in original position.
plus reduced head 6 point head bolts. (ARP knockoffs) Delco 45RS spark plugs.

a lot of the other parts would work great for a low buck build, they are used,but in very good condition...
Comp Cam magnum 270H - The hydraulic lifters were kept in the correct order with the lobes..plus pushrods.
Comp cam part # 12-211-3
470/470 lift 270/270 duration 110 degree LS
1800-5800 rpm range.

Edelbrock Performer 2101.. (aluminum intake- but painted Chevy orange by P O )

650 CFM manual secondary Holley carb
with adaptor plate for manifold.

Stock HEI w/ plug wires.

Timing chain and both steel gears.

6.750 " harmonic balancer and crank bolt.

OEM timing gear cover.

If any of these parts could be of use, PM me and we can discuss it further..shipping might be the deal breaker....with a little bit of elbow grease these parts will clean up nicely for a cheap overhaul..

 

[blazinzuk]

Instead of pulling the engine apart. We pulled the current engine out of the truck.

It also happened to be a 4 bolt main.

This one is in way better shape. Gonna hone the cylinders, rering, rebearing, regasket and run it.

The other engine will get stored for a bit to build up at a later date

 

[RSWORDS]

I'm confused with all the "buy a short block" answers. Do we not build anything anymore?

My rebuild im $850 in pistons full bearing, ring and gasket set, and machine work to get to short block status.

Count in the new intake, cam with lifters and double chain and oil pump and I'm still sub $1500.

Or around the price of just a short block from a company with a good name.

 

[diesel4me]

I don't know about other parts of the country--but around here just about every reputable auto machine shop has gone out of business ,the owners retired or passed away,and the few that remain are either way too expensive,don't want to bother with "backyard mechanics",or do half-arsed work...many would rather you dump off the engine there and let THEM rebuild it,otherwise "no warranty"..

Most of the business they had came from dealerships and garages back in the days when valve jobs were required at fairly low mileage--nowadays they just slap a new head on and call it done,or get a low mileage engine from a wreck at a salvage yard instead of rebuilding the original..

When you can buy an assembled short or long block for less than having a block bored,honed,line bored if needed,it is no wonder its often more expensive to rebuild the original engine..