trying to replace the inner draglink end

[scrappyk5]

i am trying to replace my inner draglink end and when i am trying to loosen the nut, the shaft of the joint is turning too .
i have tried hammering my fork in there to see if i can stop it and it is still turning. i have tried hammering the top of the joint where the grease fitting is and still the shaft turns. is there any other way besides the trusty
sawzall ?


let me know
thanks

 

[dremu]

i am trying to replace my inner draglink end and when i am trying to loosen the nut, the shaft of the joint is turning too .
i have tried hammering my fork in there to see if i can stop it and it is still turning. i have tried hammering the top of the joint where the grease fitting is and still the shaft turns. is there any other way besides the trusty
sawzall ?


let me know
thanks

First, soak it in penetrating oil to ungunk the rust. For a week. Well, a long while.

Then, an impact would be nice.

Failing that, if the fork doesn't hold it in, I'd grind the damn thing off... did the new one come with a nut? If not, you can get a new nut at the parts place.

You DID take the cotter pin out, right? =))

-- A

 

[scrappyk5]

yes the cotter pin was removed .

the new one did come with a nut.
i guess i will just cut the nut off or the whole shaft.
thanks,
mike

 

[FWP]

is there any other way besides the trusty
sawzall ?


let me know
thanks

Tighten it back up with an impact, rattle the nut off. If it spins again before the nut comes off, repeat the first step. If it takes more than 10 minutes, cut it off.

 

[Blue85]

For tie-rod ends, I have used a jack under the TRE to push the tapered part back into where it seats. This helps to hold it still while you work on the nut, preferably with an impact. Driving a fork in is sort of the opposite of this. I'm not sure which end is the inner end, but you might be able to do something similar to this. Sometimes a bottle jack can fit between two parts to put pressure on something. You just don't want to put too much stress on the pitman arm, if that is the part giving you trouble.

Also, can you cut away the rubber seal and grind some flat spots on the shaft for a box wrench to grip?

 

[scrappyk5]

For tie-rod ends, I have used a jack under the TRE to push the tapered part back into where it seats. This helps to hold it still while you work on the nut, preferably with an impact. Driving a fork in is sort of the opposite of this. I'm not sure which end is the inner end, but you might be able to do something similar to this. Sometimes a bottle jack can fit between two parts to put pressure on something. You just don't want to put too much stress on the pitman arm, if that is the part giving you trouble.

Also, can you cut away the rubber seal and grind some flat spots on the shaft for a box wrench to grip?

great ideas, both of them. i went the route of the sawzall. took about
10 minutes and two blades. i cut the whole stud and nut off.
then put the new one on. whole job about thirty minutes.
thanks everyone for your suggestions.