CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
tube chassis - HREW vs DOM
- Thread starter KRAZIE87K5
- Start date
az-k5
1/2 ton status
it's against the rules???? that's a bunch of horse crap!!! /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif
Now I know why they haven't woked for me in the past too.
It's still horse crap though /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif
/forums/images/graemlins/pimp1.gif
Now I know why they haven't woked for me in the past too.
It's still horse crap though /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif
/forums/images/graemlins/pimp1.gif
It's not against the rules they just turned off remote linking, ck5 is the same way so don't be too upset /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
Resurrection_Joe
1 ton status
If they let you remote link pictures it would suck thier bandwidth like mad if people posted enough pictures, so be understanding
Oh and on the topic at hand: Yes! And whatnot! Sure thing, and if in doubt, make it larger round the smaller bits!
Oh and on the topic at hand: Yes! And whatnot! Sure thing, and if in doubt, make it larger round the smaller bits!
az-k5
1/2 ton status
I understand the bandwidth thing I guess. So it is not total horse crap, maybe just mere pony crap.
Back to cages.
There is also something to be said about wall thickness. .188 is awsome for strength but adds a lot of weight after you use 200 feet of it. It is also harder on a bender, nothing that should break it, but obviously makes tools work harder. I am not trying to say that .095 is better cause it is lighter, just take 50 lbs in gussets and apply it to .120 wall in order to remove 120 lbs in wall thickness. Those are not real numbers just a quick example.
Food for thought
Back to cages.
There is also something to be said about wall thickness. .188 is awsome for strength but adds a lot of weight after you use 200 feet of it. It is also harder on a bender, nothing that should break it, but obviously makes tools work harder. I am not trying to say that .095 is better cause it is lighter, just take 50 lbs in gussets and apply it to .120 wall in order to remove 120 lbs in wall thickness. Those are not real numbers just a quick example.
Food for thought
laketex
3/4 ton status
Dan, what kind of wire do you need for your mockup? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Email me cause i'm not hardcore enough anymore to trawl this forum. /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif
Email me cause i'm not hardcore enough anymore to trawl this forum. /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif
When we built my buggy we went through this exact same thing. DOM vs. HREW, Stephen being the engineer in the family looked at the issue from that standpoint and found the strength gains vs. cost were good.
We built most of my chasis from all DOM 1 3/4" with 1 1/2" and smaller where we felt it should be used. Most everything has a wall thickness of .120. Some areas, where it would not be hit, we used .095 wall ie. internal bracing.
Hind site being 20/20 I would have used less 1 3/4" and more 1 1/2". This would have saved a small portion of weight.
The bottom line is that using DOM on the exterior of the cage because it is more dent resistant than HREW is a good idea. We have proven this. Then use either thinner wall thickness and maybe even HREW on the internal stuff that will not take any hits.
Use whatever you want, this debate will forever be around and everyone will be an "Expert" on what you should use. I prefer DOM others don't. My opinion vs. theirs.
My chassis is so well braced that I do not worry about much. I rolled it doing a dounut in Johnson Valley. The roll was hard enough that it jarred the electrical connection to my fuel injection harness loose. It took us a minute to find out why it would not start. After a close inspection we could not find anything stressed or bent from the roll and all seems fine now. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
We built most of my chasis from all DOM 1 3/4" with 1 1/2" and smaller where we felt it should be used. Most everything has a wall thickness of .120. Some areas, where it would not be hit, we used .095 wall ie. internal bracing.
Hind site being 20/20 I would have used less 1 3/4" and more 1 1/2". This would have saved a small portion of weight.
The bottom line is that using DOM on the exterior of the cage because it is more dent resistant than HREW is a good idea. We have proven this. Then use either thinner wall thickness and maybe even HREW on the internal stuff that will not take any hits.
Use whatever you want, this debate will forever be around and everyone will be an "Expert" on what you should use. I prefer DOM others don't. My opinion vs. theirs.
My chassis is so well braced that I do not worry about much. I rolled it doing a dounut in Johnson Valley. The roll was hard enough that it jarred the electrical connection to my fuel injection harness loose. It took us a minute to find out why it would not start. After a close inspection we could not find anything stressed or bent from the roll and all seems fine now. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
KRAZIE87K5
1/2 ton status
Thanks for the info. Do you have any pics available of your cage design? /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
-Dan
-Dan
gm4x
1/2 ton status
[ QUOTE ]
That all makes perfect sense. I'll drop the idea of having it tested for strength... I think I have a fairly good head for figuring these things out once I start working on them.
You really think piano wire is too strong? I just figured that most bailing wire comes in a reel, meaning that its ALL been bent. Every little piece would have to be straightened out before building it into the model. Hrmm...
I think I got the basics down.
#1. Use straight tubes where ever possible
#2. Build in triangulation where ever possible
#3. Use sq. tube for lower frame rails
#4. .156 wall tube is good for most chassis applications, for the best of strength and weight.
#5. Model first, build second /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Looks like I'm off to begin design on the new chassis. /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif
-Dan
[/ QUOTE ]
I mess around w/model cars, and use this for headders & exhaust systems. You might try picking up a roll of solder. I'd think it's be pretty easy to mock-up, if you have a solder-gun.Probably could re-use it a few times. FWIW
That all makes perfect sense. I'll drop the idea of having it tested for strength... I think I have a fairly good head for figuring these things out once I start working on them.
You really think piano wire is too strong? I just figured that most bailing wire comes in a reel, meaning that its ALL been bent. Every little piece would have to be straightened out before building it into the model. Hrmm...
I think I got the basics down.
#1. Use straight tubes where ever possible
#2. Build in triangulation where ever possible
#3. Use sq. tube for lower frame rails
#4. .156 wall tube is good for most chassis applications, for the best of strength and weight.
#5. Model first, build second /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Looks like I'm off to begin design on the new chassis. /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif
-Dan
[/ QUOTE ]
I mess around w/model cars, and use this for headders & exhaust systems. You might try picking up a roll of solder. I'd think it's be pretty easy to mock-up, if you have a solder-gun.Probably could re-use it a few times. FWIW
