Hey guys I got a used turbo 400 to put in my 87 k30 6.2 diesel. I blew the tranny up a little over a month ago. I've never pulled or installed a tranny before. If you gentlemen could give me any tips I would greatly appreciate it. I know I need to pull my drive shafts, transfer case, and crossmember. I've already drained both transmissions but I've still yet to drain the transfer case.
CK5
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Turbo 400 install help
- Thread starter GlockGuy
- Start date
Drain the t case, unbolt the bellhousing, then put your jack under the crossmember, unbolt the crossmember and then lower them as a unit. That's how I always do it. I have a th350/203.
Oh and remember to unbolt the torque converter from the flexplate.
-Don't forget to support your engine. When you pull the transmission/TCase it will tilt back unless you put a jack under it.
-Take your time. Make sure everything is disconnected before lowering
-A transmission jack is worth its weigh in gold when it comes to getting things lined up to go back in.
-Take your time. Make sure everything is disconnected before lowering
-A transmission jack is worth its weigh in gold when it comes to getting things lined up to go back in.
Yes, make damn sure you support your engine. I forgot to mention that. I usually run a short ratchet strap from frame rail to framerail with the strap going under the oil pan on the motor.
Make sure to flush the cooler and lines so you don't kill the new trans
I prefer to remove the transfer case from the transmission.
I never support the engine, it's not going anywhere.
Martin
I never support the engine, it's not going anywhere.
Martin
It's not going anywhere, but you may be going to the parts store to buy a new distributer if your motor rocks back because it wasn't supported. Had it happen.
Ahh, you've got one of them real trucks with no spark plugs!
6.2 wont have a distributor,but you might wipe out the vacuum pump if it has one,by letting the engine droop when you pull the tranny..the fan can hit the shroud too...best to block it up somehow,wood under the oil pan,etc..
You would think that it might twist the engine mounts ,too if you do not support the engine. Heard of it happening,would not risk it.
I've seen "mechanics" at local garages do a clutch or tranny swap in a front wheel drive vehicle ,without bothering to use a support bar across the strut towers to hold the engine up....more than one said "Eh--the hoses and wires hold it up OK--never had a problem !"..
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...I've seen "mechanics" at local garages do a clutch or tranny swap in a front wheel drive vehicle ,without bothering to use a support bar across the strut towers to hold the engine up....more than one said "Eh--the hoses and wires hold it up OK--never had a problem !"..
And then people wonder why they have weird electrical problems down the road from stretched/broken electrical connectors...
And...leaky heater cores,radiators,metal coolant pipes that now weep at rusty bracket weld joints,and dont forget possible fuel leaks,with the higher pressures fuel injection requires--and Lord knows what else gets "comprimised".....
..
Scary thing is most of these "mechanics" have ASE certification and are considered "good" ...
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..Scary thing is most of these "mechanics" have ASE certification and are considered "good" ...
..
I rarely support the motor. Just be careful.
When I pull trans I take down the crossmember after pulling driveshafts of course and linkage. Floor jack under the trans. Drop it down a bunch. Then I disconnect everything that is way easier to get too now.
Then it's easy to get bell housing bolts
When I pull trans I take down the crossmember after pulling driveshafts of course and linkage. Floor jack under the trans. Drop it down a bunch. Then I disconnect everything that is way easier to get too now.
Then it's easy to get bell housing bolts
So you did it wrong. I've done it well over a hundred times, if not hundreds of times. Never once have I hurt anything.
Martin
I just pulled/installed a 400/205 in my '87. I pulled driveshafts and disconnected linkage and pulled the 205. Then converter bolts, cooler lines, linkage ect. My crossmember was on the top of the frame, so I needed to twist it to remove it.
