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Turbo drain line for Holset Baby H1C

BadDog

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Cross posted on DP for broader exposure.

I didn't expect to have a problem sorting the drain line for this thing, but turns out I was wrong.

I've got a 6.2 with Holset Baby H1C mounted on a Banks exhaust manifold. Holset says a MINIMUM drain tube ID of 7/8". But it seems the standard go-to is -10 AN braided line, which has a restriction at the -10 fittings of less than 1/2" ID.

And to really complicate things, the turbo mounts so low that it's almost impossible to maintain a decent slope. I previously thought that the common return piped into the fuel pump block off, but that would produce almost no slope with problematic routing. Fortunately that wasn't my plan, and I have a 3/4" NPT bung brazed into the oil pan a bit above the fill line behind the crossover downpipe obstruction.

Which all together means I need to drop down from the cartridge about 3" to get under the hot side housing with about 1/2" clearance. It then has to route toward the motor mount before making an arc back around the downpipe and under the exhaust manifold to hit the pan bung for maybe a 10* down slope IF I start it with a 100* elbow.

And as close as it is to the hot side housing, cross over, and exhaust manifold, plus the oil returning gets much hotter than common for engine oil, options like common oil line or silicone hose won't work due to heat limits. Teflon appears a better choice, maybe with a heat sleeve, but still seems less than ideal.

The only thing I can come up with is to do the same as the crossover and weld it out of 1" tube mandrel bends. But that's going to make it tough given the ideal arc being something like a 5" radius. I've got a 1" die with 3" radius for my tube bender, so maybe that's the best route? Then only have to have a very short hose (silicone?) for that last ~1" gap connector to the bung with a modified nipple to match the 1" ID hose needed for the fabricated drain.

Oh, and I went yesterday to a local high pressure hose shop to see what they had. Thinking maybe hydraulic hose of some sort. But they didn't recommend it in a close space like that exposed to direct heat. And the best option they did have (not recommended) was VERY stiff making routing difficult, and no real solution for the section straight down from the cartridge flange before it can go rearward under the hot side. So that could still be an option with me fabricating the vertical drop and welding on a bung to fit some sort of hydraulic fitting (TBD) below the turbo. That at least gets the hose out from between the turbo housings, but still...

I figure I've got to be missing something. What is it?
 
Cross posted on DP for broader exposure.

I didn't expect to have a problem sorting the drain line for this thing, but turns out I was wrong.

I've got a 6.2 with Holset Baby H1C mounted on a Banks exhaust manifold. Holset says a MINIMUM drain tube ID of 7/8". But it seems the standard go-to is -10 AN braided line, which has a restriction at the -10 fittings of less than 1/2" ID.

And to really complicate things, the turbo mounts so low that it's almost impossible to maintain a decent slope. I previously thought that the common return piped into the fuel pump block off, but that would produce almost no slope with problematic routing. Fortunately that wasn't my plan, and I have a 3/4" NPT bung brazed into the oil pan a bit above the fill line behind the crossover downpipe obstruction.

Which all together means I need to drop down from the cartridge about 3" to get under the hot side housing with about 1/2" clearance. It then has to route toward the motor mount before making an arc back around the downpipe and under the exhaust manifold to hit the pan bung for maybe a 10* down slope IF I start it with a 100* elbow.

And as close as it is to the hot side housing, cross over, and exhaust manifold, plus the oil returning gets much hotter than common for engine oil, options like common oil line or silicone hose won't work due to heat limits. Teflon appears a better choice, maybe with a heat sleeve, but still seems less than ideal.

The only thing I can come up with is to do the same as the crossover and weld it out of 1" tube mandrel bends. But that's going to make it tough given the ideal arc being something like a 5" radius. I've got a 1" die with 3" radius for my tube bender, so maybe that's the best route? Then only have to have a very short hose (silicone?) for that last ~1" gap connector to the bung with a modified nipple to match the 1" ID hose needed for the fabricated drain.

Oh, and I went yesterday to a local high pressure hose shop to see what they had. Thinking maybe hydraulic hose of some sort. But they didn't recommend it in a close space like that exposed to direct heat. And the best option they did have (not recommended) was VERY stiff making routing difficult, and no real solution for the section straight down from the cartridge flange before it can go rearward under the hot side. So that could still be an option with me fabricating the vertical drop and welding on a bung to fit some sort of hydraulic fitting (TBD) below the turbo. That at least gets the hose out from between the turbo housings, but still...

I figure I've got to be missing something. What is it?
A picture would help.
But I will try to see how my ats turbo dealt with it, I do remember it was a tight fit and the slope wasn't much.
I just know it works because the truck was running for a while before I got it.
 
One of the primary goals of this build is dependable longevity for long back roads excursions. And it's pretty crowded in there, so not something I want to have to recreate to address problems once installed.

Also, I've read posts on other forums where folks kill turbos in very short order, one after another, and the general consensus on each was insufficient drain using -10 hardware with minimal slope, plus Holset seems pretty clear on the 7/8" minimum drain (I've found no spec on "minimum slope") or voided warranty. The Cummins drain tube I have for it is 3/4" steel tube with a very steep slope.

I thought about pictures, and actually took some earlier. But it's not easy to see and process without the 3D rotation. This is the clearest I could get it.

The front view shows the turbo drain location and oil pan bung indicated by the red arrows. You can see a direct line isn't bad at all. Too bad everything is in the way of anything remotely similar to a straight line.

The side view shows the turbo drain and oil pan bung again with red arrows, and yellow arrows indicating the interference points limiting routing options. The right yellow arrow shows where the crossover tube bolts up, preventing more direct routing.

By the time you get around everything it's a constant compound curve that arcs to the rear before hooking around to hit the pan bung at about a 45* angle from the rear. The tube has to go back and cut over to the block roughly in line with the wastegate actuator pressure reference tube.

TurboFront.jpg

TurboSide.jpg
 
Yes, one of those -10 "kits" is what I was first considering. If you are talking about the ribbed flex lines, I considered those too. But I wondered about the ribs combined with the very low drain angle. Not sure how that would impact drain rate. Probably not an issue with a big steep drop like a Cummins, but seat of the pants feels like it's going to gravity flow equivalent to a substantially smaller drain when running more horizontal.
 
I was thinking the ribbed metals ones since you have to pass super close to the manifold.

I think it would be fine as for flow rate.

Where are you pulling an oil supply for the turbo from? On the 6.2 block I'm currently using I used the 1/4 npt port just above the oil filter. While the it sees whatever pressure the pump is moving. The flow isn't anything crazy. And I ran a piece of 3/4 hose for the drain.
 
My oil supply is from the same port.

Just a piece of hose was my first thought, but rejected due to proximity to hot stuff. From there to the common -10 steel braided, and onward. I've circled back now to the start. Looking at McMaster for high temp hose, and a protective sleeve. But I wonder about it sagging due to routing. At least the ribbed metal one wouldn't sag. Nothing's ever easy...
 
Sounds like the metal rib style is the one. If nothing else it'll take the heat the best.
 
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