Turn signal indicator light ???

[badmix]

My "left" turn signal indicator light is out on the dash. Is this easy to get to. I havent messed with it yet and feeling lazy today. lol.

Do I have to pull the gauge bezel to reach it or can I get from under the dash??

Is it just a normal bulb or anything special?

 

[45acpJr]

I suppose it all depends on how bendy your arms are but I'm sure you could reach under and find the right bulb. I'm not home or I would get the bulb number for you. Vatozone should be able to get it......maybe

 

[45acpJr]

I hate asking stupid questions but you do know that those bulbs sit in a twist off style connector?

 

[British Slave]

Personally I would pull the bezel and replace all the bulbs at one time. And my 87 has the twist in bulb holders.

 

[badmix]

LMT shows it as a simple push in type.

Ill probably replace all the bulbs.

Actually , this is going to be expensive. I need to replace my dash, sooooooooooooo

I may order all the bulbs, order a new dash pad, replace dash speakers........what else should I do while I have this thing tore apart?

Also, how are the LMT dashes? Is there better options out there?

 

[TheBeast_88K5]

- pull dash pad.
- unscrew gauge bezel.
- pull bezel.
- replace bulbs.

Then....

- assess your wiring situation.
- if it's mostly unmolested, and it works, LEAVE IT ALONE.
- if it's been tampered with, or molested by a PO.... Assess further.

- don't bite off more than you ultimately 'care' to chew.

I started with: "why don't my gauges work correctly?"
I am now at: "everything has been rewired... Almost."

 

[diesel4me]

If you have long arms and small hands like me,chances are you can remove the bulb holder and replace the bulb without removing the dash cluster,I have managed to change the dash bulbs in my trucks without resorting to pulling the cluster...its difficult but not impossible....most GM's before 1967 used #194 or #167 push in wedge base dash lamps,same ones as the side markers...

 

[dyeager535]

If you don't want to do it again (theoretically) and be cool, you can buy 194/168 (T10) LED's on ebay for pretty darn cheap. I don't recommend them for the cluster lighting itself unless you don't mind not being able to dim them much, but other positions they work good.

It gets technical (need certain colors, some LED designs better than others, etc) but is pretty easy to work around. Of course, all bets are off since the bulb contacts sometimes are junk themselves.

I just started on "hardwiring" a cluster last night, as I'm tired of the intermittent connections coming from the plastic circuit "board" (and bulb holder retention) design.

 

[badmix]

If you don't want to do it again (theoretically) and be cool, you can buy 194/168 (T10) LED's on ebay for pretty darn cheap. I don't recommend them for the cluster lighting itself unless you don't mind not being able to dim them much, but other positions they work good.

It gets technical (need certain colors, some LED designs better than others, etc) but is pretty easy to work around. Of course, all bets are off since the bulb contacts sometimes are junk themselves.

I just started on "hardwiring" a cluster last night, as I'm tired of the intermittent connections coming from the plastic circuit "board" (and bulb holder retention) design.

Oh I know. Its not uncommon to give the top of the dash a smack to get the back lights to work.

 

[dyeager535]

If anyone cares...

I'm thinking hardwiring is going to be fairly easy. I ordered up this connector set http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Delphi-Connection-Systems/15332161/?qs=%2fha2pyFaduiwKnAZR%2f4bVw8o1TAl77U7xUL7h4exDoI%3d to replace the IP connector so the cluster will have a "solid" connection. Mouser really surprises me on their prices and shipping. VERY reasonable for Delphi stuff.

I have ordered some LED's like these http://www.ebay.com/itm/White-T10-4...Parts_Accessories&hash=item5aee0f0b3c&vxp=mtr I suspect/hope I can take the base off, and silicone or epoxy just the LED portion to the housing in place of the 168/194 stock bulbs.

Single common 12V wire for each gauge, single common ground wire for the gauges/lights, and then the sender wire for each gauge.

Picked up some small ring terminals, and will use those to connect to each threaded post on the gauges.

Few wire clamps screwed to the housing to keep the wires from getting pulled, done.

Lot of work for a small hassle, but with the LED's, I'm hoping it NEVER has to come apart again.