Turning radius post D-44 swap

[cheavyk10]

Is the pitman arm keyed to the steering box output shaft? Could you lock the steering wheel straight and find the new center on the pitman arm to take up the difference?

It is key'd, has a wide grove every 90* so it can only go on 4 different ways.

The 4wd steering box has splines on only about .25 of the circumference of the sector shaft, thus allowing the pitman arm to only go on one way. Attached photo is the inside of a pitman arm, so you can see the splines.

 

[Wes Harden]

@cheavyk10 is right. I am thinking of different box. Either 2w drive van or another make

 

[Lolz_cats]

The 4wd steering box has splines on only about .25 of the circumference of the sector shaft, thus allowing the pitman arm to only go on one way. Attached photo is the inside of a pitman arm, so you can see the splines. View attachment 410967

Thanks for the visual reference!

 

[Blue85]

It sure looks like your parts need more than just 1" removed. Maybe different brands of DLEs have a different length. Do you still have the drag link that came off before the EZ-inch went on? Also, have you confirmed the axle actually moved exactly 1"? You could call ORD to ask and see what they have. They offer short body DLEs, but one of those might actually be too short. Maybe replace the short side with one of the short body ones? I can't remember which end is LHT and which is RHT.

You do want the box to be centered while driving straight, because the teeth are cut slightly tighter on center for better feel.

 

[CharlieC]

I put a tie rod end for the forward drag link end. It works but feels really sloppy, 1/4 to 1/2 wheel turn of nothing. Can’t hardly move either tie rod end, so I’ll assume they’re good. It is a new swap-in, but I wouldn’t think poor alignment would cause that?

I’m tired dinking with it, just want to drive it, so I guess I have to bite the crossover bullet. Plan is to buy from DIY4X since I got everything else from him. Any other recommendations? How about pax side knuckle?

thanks
Charlie

 

[Fastereddie]

I put a tie rod end for the forward drag link end. It works but feels really sloppy, 1/4 to 1/2 wheel turn of nothing. Can’t hardly move either tie rod end, so I’ll assume they’re good. It is a new swap-in, but I wouldn’t think poor alignment would cause that?

I’m tired dinking with it, just want to drive it, so I guess I have to bite the crossover bullet. Plan is to buy from DIY4X since I got everything else from him. Any other recommendations? How about pax side knuckle?

thanks
Charlie

You need to have another person rock the steering wheel back and forth and see where you are getting the slop.

 

[500$k5]

I have zero rate blocks, with the axle moved forward. My drag link sleeves are fine, but I have to cut about 3/4 inch off of both drag link ends to install. The butt against each other inside the sleeves, if you don't shorten them. I don't have any issues with steering angle.

 

[500$k5]

 

[Chickntrk]

My drag link ran out of adjustment before I could center the wheel with my 10 bolt front axle, when I swapped the 60 in it became just right….I believe the 60 moves the drag link end mounting hole back an inch or so.

 

[CharlieC]

I put the tie-rod end on, even with the slight angle I have, it’s obvious the drag link ends have much more rotational area I’ll call it. Too much play/slop to be drivable at any kind of real speed. So F’it, I’m tired of not being able to drive it. I bought the ORD Crossover kit, found a pair of NIB assembled Reid Racing knuckles on FB and switching the steering shaft over to solid u-joints. Deciding between a Borgeson or CPP 500 steering box. Yeah… didnt want to spend any more money, famous last words.

Charlie

 

[frankin5]

I presume you have procured a 2 wheel drive steering box?

 

[Blue85]

I'm also 4-5" of lift with axle an inch forward with stock engine crossmember - not trimmed or anything.

 

[CharlieC]

Tha

I presume you have procured a 2 wheel drive steering box?

That’s why the comment on which box to choose…

Charlie