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Turning up the pump.......

6.2Blazer

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Getting ready to turn up the pump tonight (currently have the intake off anyway). Planning on pulling the top cover but just slightly concerned about making sure the governor assembly and such is correctly reintalled afterwards.

Is it quite obvious how everything goes (concern is stuff falling/flying out before I can look at it)?

Can you check everything before firing it up?
 
I would personally go thru the side cover...no governor to screw with...just need a little mirror...let us know how it turns out
 
Hindsight being 20/20 I would of just tried the side cover. One of the 3 small bolts holding on the top cover snapped off with a very small amount of pressure, less than what the other two required to remove. When I pulled the cover there was still around 3/8" of a nub sticking up from the pump but it was still so tight that part twisted off when I put a pair of vice-grips on it (took a lot more force then when it originally snapped). Oh well, time for a little drilling. I'm going to guess it was cross-threaded from the factory and the bolt was already stressed when they drove it on. I've owned my '90 since '94 with 49k on the clock from the original owner so unlikely the pump had every been touched before.

Anyway, what is the trick to adjusting the fuel rate screw from the top? Didn't look at it very long last night because of the above issue but appears you need to remove the governor assembly to get to it? Didn't want to pry around very much on the rather delicate looking linkages.
 
you dont need to pry at all. drain the fuel, remove the bolt from the back. look at how the spring & linkage set on top of the bolt first. towards the back in the deepest part, is a cross shaft... turn the engine over until you see the adjustment screw. tighten 1/6-1/4 turn, and done. put it back together.
 
Did some searching this morning and found the Banks turbo installation manual which has a decent write-up and diagrams for this.

According to them some '89-newer 6.2's have a different style guide stud that is "preset from the factory and shouldn't be moved". They say you can still get to the fuel rate screw with the governor in place.

Plan on spending a few minutes tonight with an EZ-out but if that doesn't work pretty fast I'll just drill and tap it out to the next size.
 
My '90 just had the normal guide stud setup. However it was super hard to get it loose, as in used a long allen wrench and a homemade extension but the bolt head was starting to strip. Tried for awhile and decided to look at the side cover method....after messing with this said "no thanks" as it's a PITA to get to and is really hard to see inside the little tiny hole. The Banks manual also suggest that you can adjust the rate screw with the governor assembly still in place if you have a ball-end allen wrench. I tried this method and the trouble was it's almost impossible to see into the inspection hole to align the bolt as you can't get enough light into it. Went back to the guide stud and finally got it loose. After that it took about 2 minutes to adjust it and reinstall. I know several people express concerns with messing with the governor, but it appears to be a really simple linkage???

Started the process of removing/fixing the broken off top cover bolt. Tried the method of walking it out by tapping on the nub with a punch and chisel but no go (not work to work with because of the size). Then started with a bolt extractor set that comes with left-hand drill bits. Drilled all the way through the broken bolt with a smaller size bit (bolts will often come out with just the left-hand bit), then tried that extractor......no go, and didn't want to crank on the extractor too much and risk breaking it off. Went up to the next size bit and extractor and still no go. At this point the next size bigger bit would start getting into the threads, so will just run the appropriate size tap through it which should clean out the remnants of the broken bolt. Would of done this last night but didn't have the right size tap.
 
Any progress on this?...didn't light a match and toss it into the engine bay did ya?:D
 
Any progress on this?...didn't light a match and toss it into the engine bay did ya?:D

I put my updates in the stickied manifold swap thread. But yes, it's all done and took for a test drive this weekend and it runs good.

Took about another 10 minutes to drill out the pump top cover bolt and retap to the same size (#10-24). Replaced all of the cover bolts with new stainless allen head bolts.

Adjusting the pump through the top cover with the governor removed is super easy and I you would have to try to mess up the governor.
 
Two day trail ride out of state this weekend, so first test for the single plane J-code intake and turned up pump. Can't wait to try it out. We'll be doing everything from fairly technical rock crawling to some high RPM hill climbs.
 
Spent two days running trails this weekend and the engine ran good (single plane J-code manifold and turned up pump).

It's really noticable on the road, especially considering I run 4.10 gears and 39.5" tires. We probably averaged 10 miles of pavement each day with lots of hills at 25-30 mph. The Blazer used to really struggle at that speed but could not stay in 3rd quite a bit with an occassionaly downshift to 2nd.

Not a whole lot of heavy throttle wheeling since it was dry and rocky which equals more technical driving, but it definitely seemed to have better throttle response.
 

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