TXS HEAT - Project Jimmy - Steering Upgrade

[lemuttman]

Quick intro we, Conner (son) and I are new to the forum and have a new to us 1990 Jimmy. The Body is in need of serious help, different subject all together but the previous owner did us the favor of a LS Swap and Dana 60 swap upfront, 4' lift and its sitting on new wheels and 37s. Our plan for the truck is simple, father son project, spend more time and money than its worth but learn some skills, teach some skills and build forever long memories.

Steering - requirements, drive safely on pavement and have off-road capabilities for general trail running with the durability to take abuse of beginners.

Here are the plans for the Front Steering - Let us know your thoughts (help make up our minds) and share your experiences on our selections

2 Wheel Drive Steering Box - Readhead (drilled and tapped for hydro)
Borgeson 935 Steering Shaft

High Steer Cross over Kit -
We are on the fence with which to with. Both have great reviews and plenty of followers.
OffRaodDesigns (ORD) or DIY4x

Hydro - still doing our research

 

[obijuank5]

Welcome. Thats my dana 60 from my 91 under your truck.
2wd steering box and crossover will do everything you need it to do.
No need for high steer but a nice HD tie rod is my favorite.
Crossover low steer with assist is what I use. When you put everything up high, it really complicates packaging.
I prefer tie rod ends on the tie rod so that would put ORD ahead for manufacturer choice.

Redhead is fine, but you cam tap your own 2wd box from the parts house.
Also use a jeep XJ steering shaft instead of the borgeson.

 

[nvrenuf]

I agree, high steer is unnecessary. I have a pieced together high steer set up on my Blazer and it’s been a pain. With my axle moved forward I’ve encountered a lot of little problems with it.

 

[lemuttman]

Welcome. Thats my dana 60 from my 91 under your truck.
2wd steering box and crossover will do everything you need it to do.
No need for high steer but a nice HD tie rod is my favorite.
Crossover low steer with assist is what I use. When you put everything up high, it really complicates packaging.
I prefer tie rod ends on the tie rod so that would put ORD ahead for manufacturer choice.

Redhead is fine, but you cam tap your own 2wd box from the parts house.
Also use a jeep XJ steering shaft instead of the borgeson.

I agree, high steer is unnecessary. I have a pieced together high steer set up on my Blazer and it’s been a pain. With my axle moved forward I’ve encountered a lot of little problems with it.

Small world OBIJUANK5! Thanks for input, any knowledge why the front drive shaft wasn't installed?

High-steer does seem like a overkill and the more we research we find a number of challenges or problems that have to be solved but we also keep coming back to it. 37's are the most we will every put on the Jimmy. So, I don' think moving the axel forward is necessary eliminating/reducing entanglement and with a 4" lift a high steer should clear the frame support with the axel in factory position. NVRENUF I only suspect that you moved the axel forward to cover the tire size hitting the firewall. Do either of you, or anyone else, see our need to go with moving the axel forward?

Glad we found this group! thanks for all the great information.

 

[obijuank5]

Driveshaft probably didnt fit after the 60 install.
The fenders are already trimmed for tire clearance. So I'd say if you like the axle placement as is, just leave it.
We move the axle forward to get a better approach angle. If you want some more of that, by all means move it forward. Or lose the big ol bumper.

 

[lemuttman]

Driveshaft probably didnt fit after the 60 install.
The fenders are already trimmed for tire clearance. So I'd say if you like the axle placement as is, just leave it.
We move the axle forward to get a better approach angle. If you want some more of that, by all means move it forward. Or lose the big ol bumper.

Thanks man! Bumper is/will be a thing of the past for sure!

 

[nvrenuf]

I agree, moving the axle forward isn't a "must". My high steer problems stem from pushing the axle forward 3" (most go 1" and some go 2") which was a combination of improving approach angle and a 52" spring swap. I like where my axle is so I don't want to move it back any but I HATE the complications it caused (tie rod and drag link hitting each other, tie rod hits the pass side u-bolt plate during full right turn).

Steering knuckle strength (possible breakage at the steering arm stud bed) can be a factor with high steer. Ford knuckles are the weakest but all can be vulnerable to breakage with high steer and hydraulic assist. That said if the ram's throw is "timed" correctly with the knuckle steering stops so it doesn't try to push beyond the limit then most don't have these problems.

 

[lemuttman]

Driveshaft probably didnt fit after the 60 install.
The fenders are already trimmed for tire clearance. So I'd say if you like the axle placement as is, just leave it.
We move the axle forward to get a better approach angle. If you want some more of that, by all means move it forward. Or lose the big ol bumper.

Just to confirm the Dana 60 came out of a GM correct? All indications look like a GM -

 

[obijuank5]

Yes. Its a 1991 v3500 gm axle. 4.10 open diff. I had just done new timken wheel bearings and GM rotors. Hadnt put maybe 6k miles on it. Axle as a whole had 93 when I pulled it and was in govt service on a local campus. Unknown previous service but it was a very nice axle with tight kingpins.