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Typical Check Engine Light Bull Sh!t (fixed)

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I have this old 2002 Mitsubishi Galant beater car I drive to work and back. It runs great, and gets good gas milege. The check engine light is on indicating a problem with the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor. I checked out a few you-tube videos on this, and the main cause seems to be a stuck or carboned up EGR. I replaced the EGR, and this did not fix it. Another you-tube video said it could be vacuum leaks. I visually inspected all vacuum lines, and did the old carb cleaner trick by squirting a small shot here and there to see if the engine idle would come up. No vacuum leaks. Then I replaced the MAF sensor, and that still did not fix it. I have to smog this car soon, so I am ready to just give-up, and disconnect the battery to wipe-out all error codes and monitors. Then drive the thing about 30-miles just before it turns the check engine light at 40-mile to have it pass smog. Any input on this?
 
Did you clear the code each time you changed something and it came back?? If not changing parts will not clear the code set in computer.
 
Did you clear the code each time you changed something and it came back?? If not changing parts will not clear the code set in computer.
Yes I did, and the check engine light would come back on at almost exactly 40-miles later.
 
How dirty is the air filter? Has the mat sensor been cleaned? Air there any air leak between the mat and throttle plate?
 
How dirty is the air filter? Has the mat sensor been cleaned? Air there any air leak between the mat and throttle plate?
I changed out the air filter, and used MAF sensor cleaner at the same time I changed out the EGR.
 
I may be more interested in knowing if disconnecting the battery clearing all the codes and monitors, then driving the car around before the check engine light comes back on again will allow the car to pass smog. I think my ECM is so sensitive that any little thing makes it come on, and nothing is ever going to fix it.
 
It might work, depends on if your get enough monitors to set before the check eng light comes on. I'm not familiar with the monitor drive cycle strategy for Mitsubishi. Nor how many monitors Nevada requires.
 
It might work, depends on if your get enough monitors to set before the check eng light comes on. I'm not familiar with the monitor drive cycle strategy for Mitsubishi. Nor how many monitors Nevada requires.
This car passed smog last year the day I bought it. It did not have any check engine light on at that time, but it did come on not very long after I bought it. I am sure the guy I bought it from knew the check engine light was on, and clear it with a scanner before I showed up to buy it.
 
I found out that a bad ground wire was causing the whole problem. After spending about $150 on parts I did not need, I happened to be looking the engine compartment of my beater "get to work daily driver" car, and saw a ground wire that was frayed and corroded. I replaced the wire, then wire wheeled clean all the ground mounting points, and used my scanner to clear the fault codes. 300 miles later the Check Engine light has not come back on, and it passed smog inspection...no problem.
 
I found out that a bad ground wire was causing the whole problem. After spending about $150 on parts I did not need, I happened to be looking the engine compartment of my beater "get to work daily driver" car, and saw a ground wire that was frayed and corroded. I replaced the wire, then wire wheeled clean all the ground mounting points, and used my scanner to clear the fault codes. 300 miles later the Check Engine light has not come back on, and it passed smog inspection...no problem.
Never heard of that happening.
Learn something new every day
 
Yep, it was probably heating up from the engine after driving a bit and increasing the resistance in the ground wire. Probably a ground used by a sensor.
 
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