U joint questions what do i need or want to get for my np205 swap

[motofool]

I got a np205 that came behind a th350 and it has the fixed outputs

* this is going to be a th350/np205 combo with 73-75 drivetrain dana 44 and 14boltff

what u joints are stock on this setup and what joints do i need to use for the 14boltFF end and dana 44 end..

drivelines are getting custom built so some things could be changed around.

i have 4 napa joints for the stock setup sitting around but i dont think they are gonna cut it.

 

[84_Chevy_K10]

1. Yoke on the NP 205 will depend on what it came from. Most likely since it's a TH 350 it came from a 1/2 ton which will make it a Spicer 1310 yoke. This can be easily changed if you so desire (I changed mine to a 1350).

2. Your 14 bolt full floater will use a Spicer 1350 joint without question unless the yoke has been changed.

3. All front axles use a 1310 joint unless you change this. The transfer case end is usually a flange for a CV joint. It can also be a yoke for a Spicer driveshaft or CV shaft I do believe if it's from an early 70s machine.

Me personally I'd have an all 1350 shaft built for the rear. If you don't have a yoke for your 205 right now for a 1350 joint use a conversion joint part number 3-3140 or Napa number 348 and put something up in the want ads here at this forum for a 1350 yoke for a 205. This is what I did, and two years later switched to all 1350 joints. Definitely highly recommended to have an all 1 ton u jointed rear driveshaft. It will and did get me home many times when I broke the front axle.

For the front, what I'd run for a driveshaft depends on how much you want to spend. If as little as possible, run the stock shaft lengthened with new joints. If you are willing to spend the extra cash, run a 1350 or 1410 joint at the pinion end and keep the stock CV. This will cost you at least $200 by the time you buy the yoke for your D44 and everything. If you're willing to spend the big cash or you're expecting a big lift, I'd call Jesse at High Angle and have him build you a 1 ton CV shaft.

I run all 1350 joints on my truck with only one exception, my front driveshaft at the pinion has a 1410 joint. I personally feel that the driveshaft is the last thing you should feel bad about spending money on. Watch any TTC video and the difference between first place and the losers seems to be whos rig drops a driveshaft on the ground all the time, who breaks hubs and axleshafts, not who's machine is best. Kinda crazy, you bring 10 built machines to TTC, and the one that tends to win is the one that stays together, even if it isn't the best built.

This has just been my personal observation. If you've got any specific questions feel free to email or PM me, I'll be glad to answer them.

 

[motofool]

i have the core driveshaft that the 205 came with,

the 205 came out of a blazer 73-80

both shafts need redone so i have options open i hear jesse is expensive i dont have 1600$ to spend on drive shafts, he doesn't ahve prices listed i just keep hearing 700-800$ pershaft looking through threads.

local shop high mountain 4wd, will be building the setup,

im expecting to spend 500$ at the most on the drive lines he said about 150 for rear and 200 for the front for stock builds that adapts the 205 for me,

shouldn't be too much more for 1350's should it?

 

[84_Chevy_K10]

The slip yoke for the front of your rear driveshaft is going to be quite expensive.

I'd budget $300 for a rear to be built correctly with all new parts.

For the front, it's up to you. Probably $100 if you need a stocker lengthened, add $150 more if you want a 1350 yoke put on your shaft up front and a yoke for your axle.

My front shaft from Jesse was ~$530 but is absolutely bomb proof with a 1 ton CV and a 1410 joint and long travel slip spline.

If my truck was a DD and I didn't use 4wd often, I'd probably build an all 1350 rear shaft and throw a 1350 or 1410 on the pinion end of the front stock shaft and call it done.

The reason it's going to cost quite a bit to upgrade to 1350s is the yokes themselves are expensive. If you had a core rear 1 piece shaft from a 3/4 ton or 1 ton truck to start with you could seriously reduce the total cost of this project.

 

[motofool]

my stock rear shaft is 3/4ton 1 piece

the front i have my stock 203 to dana 44 and the 205 one from the k5 blazer th350/205 and i think it had 3/4 running gear init..

ust looking for the best option for the money that is the best product without costing me all my limbs =P

so i should go with 1350's all the way front and rear and do a 1410 at the pinion?

 

[84_Chevy_K10]

I doubt you'll find anyone locally to build you a 1350 CV for the front. Good luck if you can, and I hope he'll warrantee it since it's not something a typical driveline shop will do on a regular basis.

All front shafts are generally the same, and they're all small. Even 1 ton shafts are the same as 1/2 ton assuming the same trans/case combo. So, a heavier duty truck isn't going to give you anything up front that you don't already have.

The 3/4 ton 1 piece rear is perfect. As long as it's not worn out, cut it down until it's the correct length for your K5 and you're done. That's $100 + u joints.

That leaves ~$400 left in your budget for a front shaft. That should be plenty to build a completely new one if you want, and not too far away from having Jesse build you a 1 ton CV shaft, either, if you think you need that. If you don't go that route I'd probably put a 1410 in the front of a stock driveshaft, thoughly clearance the CV for the angle, and slap some good joints in it and call it done.

 

[motofool]

i have a long bed that the drive shaft i have in the truck now.

i think it needs to be lengthened to fit the np205 and 6" lift

the splines on the shaft are worn pretty good doesn't clunk but im no drive line expert so ?

hrm wonder how much slip i need for travel that one thing i dont know much about...

 

[84_Chevy_K10]

Chuck that rear shaft and have an all new one made. It will have to be lengthened otherwise and it needs new splines. Maybe you can save $30 by having them re-use the yoke at the rear part of the shaft assuming it's made for the same size/wall thickness tube as you're using.

I have a shortbed so I had to actually have a longbed rear shaft shortened to make it fit on my truck.

On spline travel you'll have to cycle your suspension to find out what you need and take measurements.

 

[motofool]

by cycle you mean let it droop all the way?

i guess ill have to drive down to the drive line shop with the np205 in the back of the truck and have them inspect what ive got on the truck for ujoints and yokes now and then install the np205 lift the truck up with jacks let it droop and take measurements?

front and rear?

by stuffing one tire and dropping the other it shouldn't need more slip then with both drooped right?

 

[84_Chevy_K10]

With both drooped with the frame on jackstands it will give you a good indication. Without any weight besides the axle pulling on the springs, it will droop further, but letting it droop that way and addding another inch of slip plus a safety factor will be a good baseline to work with.

Speak with a local shop, they'll usually quote you no problem. I sent a shaft to a guy locally only to bring it back as he wanted too much to shorten it and put a 1410 on the pinion end so I ended up getting my HAD.

If you don't have a long travel suspension, you probably won't even need to do much of anything except measure your length at ride height as it doesn't really move all that much (especially the rear).