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Ugly truckling build

When I did the lift on my K10, I had to sawzall all 8 spring bolts, so I know that method.

Diesel, thanks for the tip, I'm going to give that one a shot.

Thanks
-Rob
 
I've always used heat with stubborn bolts. As long as you aren't reusing those bushings its the fastest way.
 
Yeah, a good source of heat is something that I don't have yet. It's on the list of tools I'll need at some point.

-Rob
 
^^^sounds like a neat trick^^^ Only works if the sleeve is still bonded to the bushing though.

Sawzall blade between the spring hanger and spring. Cut the protruding ends off the bolt. Spring comes out with what's left of the bolt still in the bushing.

Actually, it usually works even if the bushing sleeve has spun loose from the rubber--as long as the nut tightens up enough to pinch the bracket against the saw toothed edges of the bushing,usually it'll clamp it tight enough to keep the sleeve from spinning..then the bolt will try to pull thru the sleeve and break loose..

I've also used a pickle fork under the bolt head to free it from the sleeve a few times with success--if you have a ball joint or u-joint press,those work really well too,provided you can fit the tool where it needs to go while the spring is still on the truck..

The sawsall trick never fails,and once the spring is on the ground sometimes you can put a 9/16" socket under the sleeve and bash the bolt with a hammer and shock it free from the sleeve..

When I'm going to have to replace the bushing anyway,I just used a torch or propane torch to melt the rubber out of the bushing with the sawed off bolt still in it,and push the rubber out while its still molten--then chisel the outer steel bushing sleeve out of the spring eye,and go buy those 2 piece polyurethene bushings ,those go in with no hassles..no pressing or hammering needed..

I've found doing any repairs on my old rusty trucks dam near impossible without the aid of oxy-acetelyne torches..sawsall makes a good substitute sometimes though..you can reach places with the blade a torch cant fit in,or is too hazardous to use when your working near the gas tank,fuel lines,or other things that might be set ablaze..
 
That's another great idea, I didn't even think about the ball joint press I have sitting on my bench right now (Had it out to replace the balljoints). I'll give that a try first, I'd rather be able to re-use the factory hardware then have to replace it!

-Rob
 
Balljoint press worked like a charm! Took 30 seconds to press it out after I ****ed around with it for an hour beforehand.

Lift is completely installed, and rides great. I'll get some pics tomorrow!

-Rob
 
Glad it worked for you...sometimes the BFH and torches aren't always needed!.

My friend was beating a leaf spring bolt with a sledge hammer one day when I stopped at his shop,and he said he'd been at it a good half hour,all he accomplished was mushrooming the bolt ,and he had to keep grinding it off so if it did come free,it could still go thru the bushing...it was evident it wasn't going to budge,and we couldn't use a torch because the gas tank was right behind the spring bolt and it was plastic..:doah:...he didn't want to saw it off either,because then he'd have to get a new bushing somewhere,most likely not the same day too,and tie up his lift..

I told him about the nut & washers trick I'd used,we tried it but the threads stripped on the bolt when we put the air impact to it..he was just about to saw the bolt off when I saw his ball joint press tool sitting on the workbench...I asked if he'd tried that already,he said "no,I used it earlier to do lower ball joints on a Durango...
I suggested he try it,he was skeptical,but was ready to try anything once..it took both of us to thread the tool in there, and hold a socket on the back side till we got it clamped,then one BLAAATT from the air gun,and the bolt popped and pushed right thru,slick as snot..:laugh:
He looks at me and says "where were you an HOUR ago!"...:rolleyes:

I've seen air hammers that spring shops use,they dont screw around--they look like half sized jackhammers like they use to chisel up asphalt or concrete in road repair!..one guy told me if your not careful,you can vibrate a vehicle right off the lift it you leave it on too long..usually the bolts come right out with those tools...torches cant be used as often as they used to be,with more trucks having plastic gas tanks and nylon fuel lines..
 
Looks like it has a bit of backwards take now that I get it out of the garage. Hopefully these new front springs settle a little! She rides like a dream though, much better then the rough country kit I put on my K10.

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-Rob
 
Nope, these are the wheels that the truck came with, no center caps.

Hopefully I'll be picking up some Aluminum wheels soon!

-Rob
 
Get ready for Marty to scold you for that one in 5...4...3...2.........:whistle::popcorn:
 
My Suburban is the twin to your Blazer. I took a set of those wheels, and drilled three holes in them, tapped the holes, and installed rally wheel center caps. Looks better than aluminum wheels (in my opinion).

Martin
 
Decided to rip out the nasty carpet and bedline the interior this morning. I found that my seat mounts have torn out of the floor, and a small hole behind the passenger seat. Hopefully getting those fixed up tomorrow with the help of Jekquistk5. The rest of the floor is in great shape with some surface rust that I can grind out before I coat it.

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-Rob
 
They're really loud without a carpet.

Martin

I figured that. I intend on getting a whole new front and rear carpet / padding at some point. This is an intermediate step to get rid of the funk that the old wet carpet had.

-Rob
 
Rob came over tonight and we knocked out the cracks in the floor and the one hole he had. It's not the prettiest but we got the job done. Few pics.

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Nice meeting yah rob :thumb:
 

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