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Uh Oh! Dead 700r4 transmission on my K5

Look up Nick's Transmissions on YouTube. I just rebuilt my 700r4 last year and did it by watching his teardown/rebuild videos and by reading the trans book you can buy on Amazon.

Nick talks about it in his videos, but there a couple specialty tools you want. Ebay is your friend here. Has a lot of cheap specialty tools for the DIY person that isn't rebuilding for a living. These are the two big ones you need:
Drum spring compressor: https://www.ebay.com/itm/133532389083
Rear clutch spring compressor: https://www.ebay.com/itm/373828280182 (you can make this if you are handy with a welder and save some $)
I know those are US links, but hopefully you can find those items locally as well.

Parts you want to buy new are the forward and reverse sprags (2 pieces), the upgraded 4l60e piston kit with molded in seals, probably a new pump with vane kit, new sunshell, probably a new reverse drum, and new accumulator pistons. Plus seals, steels and frictions.

I ended up buying everything on eBay, but that may not be an option for you.


One big hiccup I ran into in my rebuild was that the book tells you there are different thickness clips to adjust the lash in the reverse drum stack up. That is a lie. At one point that may have been true when these were new, but no one makes anything but the one size now. So if you're trying to reuse your reverse drum like I did and the tolerance ends up being too tight or too loose you can't buy a different thickness ring. I had to buy a new drum to achieve the right tolerance.

I can provide eBay links to everything I bought if you want just for your reference. Let me know.
 
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Look up Nick's Transmissions on YouTube. I just rebuilt my 700r4 last year and did it by watching his teardown/rebuild videos and by reading the trans book you can buy on Amazon.

Nick talks about it in his videos, but there a couple specialty tools you want. Ebay is your friend here. Has a lot of cheap specialty tools for the DIY person that isn't rebuilding for a living. These are the two big ones you need:
I know those are US links, but hopefully you can find those items locally as well.

Parts you want to buy new are the forward and reverse sprags (2 pieces), the upgraded 4l60e piston kit with molded in seals, probably a new pump with vane kit, new sunshell, probably a new reverse drum, and new accumulator pistons. Plus seals, steels and frictions.

I ended up buying everything on eBay, but that may not be an option for you.


One big hiccup I ran into in my rebuild was that the book tells you there are different thickness clips to adjust the lash in the reverse drum stack up. That is a lie. At one point that may have been true when these were new, but no one makes anything but the one size now. So if you're trying to reuse your reverse drum like I did and the tolerance ends up being too tight or too loose you can't buy a different thickness ring. I had to buy a new drum to achieve the right tolerance.

I can provide eBay links to everything I bought if you want just for your reference. Let me know.
That’s very decent of you. It’s been so long since I’ve rebuilt one of these. I’m lucky to remember I did it.
It’s all in the details with these.
 
Decided to just post what I bought since it's on the brain. These are all good sellers on ebay. All of these parts were of high quality to my eye.

Rebuild kit with seals: https://www.ebay.com/itm/190782507245 (this is a kit that has extra steels/frictions for forward gears over factory. No clearance difference, just more of a thinner variety for improved performance)
New electrical connector for case: https://www.ebay.com/itm/254762891683
New Hardened Sunshell: https://www.ebay.com/itm/256169855317
3 pack of accumulator pistons: https://www.ebay.com/itm/256581738403
4L60e bonded piston kit with spring: https://www.ebay.com/itm/256211752791
New reverse input drum: https://www.ebay.com/itm/190799794063
Remanufactured torque converter in factory stall configuration: https://www.ebay.com/itm/201811783045 (this is a place in Chicago, seems to be really good)
New 10 vane pump kit: https://www.ebay.com/itm/226442637364
New Internal Lock up harness: https://www.ebay.com/itm/176882736428
New pressure switch: https://www.ebay.com/itm/203415033225
New governor cover if yours is trashed like mine was: https://www.ebay.com/itm/395609609613
**Optional** Sonnax TV boost valve kit: https://www.ebay.com/itm/254607264263

Items not listed you will need:
Forward sprag (pn 29236AM by Borg Warner) **for some versions of 700r4, confirm your part number**
Reverse Sprag (pn 28571AM by Borg Warner) **for some versions of 700r4, confirm your part number**
New TV cable (don't fill the trans with fluid until you have the cable setup with your carb. It's a lot easier to set the lash with the trans pan off)
 
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@Greg Ducato is our long time super trans guy here . what does he have to say . :deal:

sold to many members and no problems . i my self had had help from him and or parts from him . he knows his stuff .
 
Got back yesterday after... 1 coach. 1 Bus. 1 Taxi. And 2 hire cars. Now waiting for the tow company to bring my truck from France, where it broke down, to me in Holland. It's about a 10 day wait.

Thanks to all for the great advice!!

Once it's here, I'll check it all out before I drop it and take it apart. I'll order all the parts (I think I'll need) in one order after I have inspected it.

Yeah, being in the EU is the sucky part of having a US car, but I wouldn't have it any other way. It's my daily driver and I 90% live in it, travel in it, and love driving it!

@Wes Harden – The oil leak I had is still there. It wasn't causing too much of an issue. I just topped it up and check the oil after every drive. Both the trans and engine oils were clean when check them. So all good. I'll fix this with the gaskets at the same time as the trans.
 
I would absolutely recommend a trans temp gauge and maybe set it up with 2 senders, one for pan and one for trans out. Also, a manual control switch for the torque convertor clutch can be very helpful in controlling temperatures. You want to be able to manually lock the convertor when YOU want it locked. This can stop it from building heat in sustained heavy throttle high load situations where it would normally run unlocked or lock and unlock often if left alone.

With these tools, you can manage temps which are really all you need to think about in a healthy trans.

Also, you know this by now but the 700 has really wide gear ratios and only 4 gears to fill them in so you'll end up either lugging or revving quite a bit by modern standards. That just is what it is and the only way to make it better is more engine torque.
 
Got back yesterday after... 1 coach. 1 Bus. 1 Taxi. And 2 hire cars. Now waiting for the tow company to bring my truck from France, where it broke down, to me in Holland. It's about a 10 day wait.

Thanks to all for the great advice!!

Once it's here, I'll check it all out before I drop it and take it apart. I'll order all the parts (I think I'll need) in one order after I have inspected it.

Yeah, being in the EU is the sucky part of having a US car, but I wouldn't have it any other way. It's my daily driver and I 90% live in it, travel in it, and love driving it!

@Wes Harden – The oil leak I had is still there. It wasn't causing too much of an issue. I just topped it up and check the oil after every drive. Both the trans and engine oils were clean when check them. So all good. I'll fix this with the gaskets at the same time as the trans.
So whatever happened to the Kia K5?
 
So whatever happened to the Kia K5?
The car service (ANWB, AAA equivalent) transported it from France to Holland. It took about 4 weeks, but I got it back.

However, me getting back with all my gear was an adventure!

It took a 5 mile hike, a coach and a bus to get the first hire car. Had to drive back to the K5 (100KMs) to pick up my gear. Had to drive 300 KMs to pick up another car, the following day. And another 2 days to get back to Holland.

But again, it was an adventure, so not too pissed about it.

But... the truck. It's back on the road!!!

I don't/didn't have funds to pull the transmission out. But upon inspection, I found the trans cooler lines weren't the original ones and some c*nt has replaced them with crappy regular hoses with 1/4 barbs at both f*cking ends!

The hoses has rotted away so there was a leak that caused the f*ck up!

Anyhow, for now I'm on the road by replacing the hoses with slightly better ones, and not driving too far. But it shifts perfectly and not smelling anything bad.

But when funds allow, I will pull the trans and rebuild it before I go on my next long trip.

A little more: https://kiakamgar.com/chuck-the-truck-is-fixed-kinda
 
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Cheers Wes!

Good to hear that the trans might be fine after all, so when you say...

"When cooler hoses fail catastrophically the oil runs out so fast the trans can't burn itself up."

Do you think I'll be alright for a long trip, or should I wait to rebuild it?
 
I think you should be fine. If it is shifting up and down fine and no slipping local, road trip shouldn't be any different.
 
Did you ever pull the pan? If there's nothing bad in there, I wouldn't worry about it.

No not done that yet. Right now it's all fine and don't want to hex it. I will for sure do that before I go on my next road trip.

I keep checking oil, smells slippage (none so far) and it's been at least a month or so now.
 
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