Uh-oh, what did I do to my 14 bolt?

[heavy4x4]

Here's the history...

When I bought my 14 bolt, there was a busted off bolt in one of the yoke holes. After much struggle, I managed to re-drill the hole, but the bit wandered and went through the softer yoke rather than the hard bolt. So, I bought a replacement yoke from someone on this site and installed it a few months ago.

I replaced it by marking the pinion nut and stud and counting the threads above the pinion nut. Here's where it gets interesting. First of all, the yoke didn't easily go over the pinion. Pounding it down with a hammer didn't work well either. I just used the pinion nut to bring it down. Well, I got about 1/5 of a turn away from lining up the two marks I had made and I couldn't make the nut budge any more. I was using about a 5' breaker bar and could not get it to tighten any more.

Now, when I drive my truck, there is obviously something wrong. I get weird vibrations that, goddammit, really feel like gear issues. So, where do I go from here? I realize that you generally want to go a little further than lining up the marks because of the crush sleeve, but what if I've already gone too far. I mean, what if, because of how the yoke fit over the pinion, I've already overtightened it? I'm at a loss here. I think I'll jack up the rear and spin the yoke to see if it feels excessively hard or easy to turn. Any other ideas?

Thank goodness my truck isn't a DD anymore, but I want to get rid of this problem.

-Steve

 

[85mudblazin]

Did you put on a new crush sleeve when you put the new yoke on?

 

[fortcollinsram]

Just because you put a new yoke on doesn't mean it is dimensionally identical to the one you removed. What I would do if I were you is pull the carrier and ring gear assembly out and remove your driveline and check to see what the pinion bearing preload is. If it is way to tight, buy a new nut and crush sleeve and re-set the preload to the propper specs then re-install the ring gear and carrier and get teh backlash to within spec. If the gears look good and the pinion bearing preload and backlash are within specs, as is the carrier bearing preload, you should be able to eliminate the diff as your source of vibration.


Chris

 

[fortcollinsram]

Oh, and if your pinion preload was WAY too tight, knock the pinion out and pull the pinion support apart and see if you screwed up the pinion bearings.

Chris

 

[heavy4x4]

Nope, no new crush sleeve.

 

[heavy4x4]

Just because you put a new yoke on doesn't mean it is dimensionally identical to the one you removed.

That's what I'm thinking/afraid of.

Good advice though...I'll dig in when I get a chance.

If I do have to remove the pinion cage and put in a new crush sleeve and stuff, what exactly will I have to do to get things back to spec? I've never set up gears before. I understand the whole process of removing the carrier and counting the number of turns of the adjusters. What about backlash? What exactly is that measuring? The run-out of the ring gear? The amount of slop? I'm not sure. Will I then need to get marking compound to pattern the gears? Does anyone have some good "favorite" posts about setting up gears? Also...I hear it's a pain to get a new crush sleeve started.

I'm ALMOST positive it's the rear-end. I changed the yoke the same time I had my transfer case out to replace the transfer-case input seal. I doubt I messed up anything in the TC because I didn't go inside it.

 

[hardcore71]

Try pulling the rear shaft rotating it 180 and reinstalling it. I know it doesn't sound like it would make a difference but I have fixed many vibrations like this (even on never stuff when I worked at the GM dealer). The yoke may be different dimensionally, but if you have a GM crush collar in there (i don't know how the aftermarket ones are) I doubt that you crushed it. When I set up my 4.88's last summer I had to use a new crush collar. It took a 3' 3/4 drive ratchet with a 4' jack handle and all of my strength and weight (235 lbs I'm not a small guy) to crush it. I'm not just talking about starting it either it was like that the whole 2-3 turns after it contacted the collar. It really sucked. Anyway, If you are convinced you changed the preload all you have to do is remove the 5 bolts and pull the pinion. Don't even have to pull the cover. put it in a vise and check the preload w/ an inch pound torque wrench.


By the way I am assuming you have a 10.5 FF

 

[heavy4x4]

Hmmm...good thought. And yes, it's a 10.5" FF...sorry I didn't mention that.

If I remove just the pinion support housing, when I put it back in will I have to reset-up my gears?

 

[R72K5]

if you dont mess with shims(remove and lose track of them where they came from) then you wont mess with backlash/tooth contact pattern

good luck