UJoint/Driveline Help...

[elks]

Over the weekend I had the rear out put yoke on my 205 break. In the process it also broke the rear drive line to a point where it needs machined. I am looking at prices and the repair work will be a good start to going with a woody.

I have the 12 bolt rear and need to know what u joint it would have. is it a 1310 or 1350? I believe it is a 1310. However I believe the 1350 is stronger, but would require me to buy a new yoke and seal for the rear axle as well.

I also have plans to going with a 14 bolt next year, will it require a 1350 u joint? If so I could build the drive line now to the 1350, pay the extra for the yoke and have what I would need for my new setup next year?

Thanks for the help. I need to fix this asap, my Moab trip is only 2 weeks away.

 

[DizturbedOne]

That 12-bolt is 1310

If you're going to a 14bff soon, I would swap it for a 1350 yoke from a 1-ton trucks 203 or 205 case and just run a 1310/1350 conversion joint to the rear for now. Get a new driveline with 1350's from the junkyard to build instead of that 1310 one you have now

It'll be about the same (maybe cheaper) to buy a $40 junkyard driveline and have the length modified (I just paid $80 to lengthen mine) than it will to have the yoke replaced/machined

 

[elks]

Well I went with a new CV drive line from Tom Woods. I wanted the strong DL and will be going to a set of Dana 1 tons at some point in the next 2 years. I figured if I build this drive line to 1 ton specs then all I might need to do when I build my axles is pay the $60 for them to adjust length if needed. That was cheaper and faster than other options. I simply do not have a junk yard close to me and the one that is only 45 minutes away sucks for anything over 15 years old.

Thanks for the input. Oh I also went with the 1350 to 1310 conversion yoke for my rear.

 

[DizturbedOne]

Nice.

Junkyard, new, whatever gets it done. I was operating under the assumption that there were 100 junkyards within rock throwing distance, as it is out here, lol.

So I take it you went 1350 for your 205 yoke? If not you'll need to remember to order that conversion joint for both sides if your shaft is 1350 now.

How much did a new 1350 CV shaft cost you? I have a slip shaft now that is giving me no problems, but I suspect the slip is wearing out and will start vibrating soon.

 

[elks]

Nice.

Junkyard, new, whatever gets it done. I was operating under the assumption that there were 100 junkyards within rock throwing distance, as it is out here, lol.

So I take it you went 1350 for your 205 yoke? If not you'll need to remember to order that conversion joint for both sides if your shaft is 1350 now.

How much did a new 1350 CV shaft cost you? I have a slip shaft now that is giving me no problems, but I suspect the slip is wearing out and will start vibrating soon.

From Tom Woods I got the Following:

New CV Style Out put yoke for 205, New Seal and Nut, Then the CV Drive Shaft in 3" thicker Walled tube abd the rear 1310-1350 Conversion UJoint. Over all it was exspensive, but when I upgrade to a Dana 60 and 14 bolt it should go right in with only a length adjustment. total was was $530 shipped and will be here in 2 days. cost just to repair what I had was gonna be over $200... this way I have the DL I need to go to a 14 bolt and 60 set up... Luckily ihad been saving up for something else instead, but that will wait now