Under body paint - any suggestions?

[3MAX]

I'm in the middle of doing a frame - off on my 90 model right now and want to make sure that I do everything right the first time. I'm cleaning up the underside of the body and it's in great shape - no rust at all. The only areas that really "need" attention are where I've welded in panels to repair the cracked floorboards under the front seats. I'm going to use some seam sealer their.

What do you guys recommend for painting rest of the body? I've used Summit Racing's "Chassis Shield" paint on the frame and axles and it seems to be a pretty durable coating. I've thought about using it on the body as well, but there may be something better.

Any suggestions are appreciated!

 

[blazinzuk]

Not being a body guy at all( there are a couple on here) I would use lizard skin. I am on some other forums where it has been used with good success.

I plan to use both the sound deadner and the insulation product on my truck when I get to it

 

[3MAX]

I've considered Lizard Skin too, but it's expensive - especially if you use both products for sound and heat insulation. About $300 to do the whole underside. Of course, it may be that you get what you pay for.

While I'd like to have the insulating properties, I'm more concerned with good rust prevention - I want this thing to last 20 more years without having to worry about it.

 

[76zimmer]

I assume you want to brush it on then?
whatever you use, be sure to prep it REAL good.
clean 1st with mineral spirits then denatured alcohol and then sand if you can for adhesion.

 

[ryoken]

there is no single product... finishes are based on their processes.. clean raw steel? ya wanna start with a good self etching primer or epoxy.. then a good catalyzed paint on top is the best "sub" coat you'll get.. if you wish to follow that up with lizard skin, herc, strawberry jam, etc, fine... but a proper initial coating system will always be the best rust prevention...

 

[76zimmer]

Listen to what Ryoken says,,,its the best way from an ole bodyman!

I started this with sandblasted bare metal, then a mineral spirits wash, then zinc primer, then urethane primer, then urethane single stage....seems to hold up very good to anything but brake fluid, and scrapes on the rocks

 

[3MAX]

there is no single product... finishes are based on their processes.. clean raw steel? ya wanna start with a good self etching primer or epoxy.. then a good catalyzed paint on top is the best "sub" coat you'll get.. if you wish to follow that up with lizard skin, herc, strawberry jam, etc, fine... but a proper initial coating system will always be the best rust prevention...

Should I strip it down to bare metal? The original coating still looks like it's in good shape - just want to be certain that it stays that way.

I've read enough of your comments to know that you know your stuff when it comes to paint & body work - would like to know just what you would recommend. Stripping & starting over, or prepping the existing finish and going on top of it (I'm not even certain what the original finish is).

And I don't mind spraying, just don't want to have to purchase a specialized gun for a super thick coating that I'll never use again if I can help it.

 

[ryoken]

if it's good factory paint, just sand it thoroughly, clean, and put a good paint over it.. if you've got a bunch of bare spots, spot prime it.....

but that is the big question, $40 in air dried rusto, or $300 in a catalyzed Imron type product...

 

[3MAX]

if it's good factory paint, just sand it thoroughly, clean, and put a good paint over it.. if you've got a bunch of bare spots, spot prime it.....

but that is the big question, $40 in air dried rusto, or $300 in a catalyzed Imron type product...

Are there any products that can chemically etch the existing paint to provide good adheasion? Sanding the entire underside is going to be a pain...

 

[ryoken]

well, obviously I'm big on a mechanical etch.... but there used to be a product years ago, iirc it was called something like "Sand Ease" or something similar.. it was made for use in door jambs and such...

a super quick look just now didn't bring up anything, but i'll look around tonight and see if i can find it... basically it was a clear product you sprayed on prior to paint that bit into, and softened up the old paint so the new paint would stick...

 

[3MAX]

If sanding is best, then I don't mind putting in the work. Just looking for something easier if it's available. Like I said earlier, I want this thing to last, so I want to get it right. If that requires a few hours of overhead sanding, then so be it.