CK5
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Understanding the warmup of cold Tbi..

WoW ! are you trying to give me a heart attack or a hardon! Thats some sexy info right there....i know the mpg s wouldnt suffer much but unless i come to a complete stop and keep my foot on the brake in d it will stay high idle....of course if i stop and put into p or n its about a30 second drop--- on the exit-most of the problem is somebody is usually up my bumper by then- even at 530 Am....... [They dont call them MASS HOLES for nothin!!!] i just didnt want to tackle my p/n switch in the column. + my braking is effected with the high idle and stopping, it aint the best anyways and just worse down an exit towards the end .....

So you know that there is a problem with the p/n switch, why not fix it? the ecm does use it for IAC control. Like I said before, if everything is working correctly, you wont even notice the fast idle after driving a a very short time.

You should not have any trouble stopping regardless of fast idle or not.
 
So you know that there is a problem with the p/n switch, why not fix it? the ecm does use it for IAC control. Like I said before, if everything is working correctly, you wont even notice the fast idle after driving a a very short time.

Don't feel like ripping apart my tilt column,just want to try to enjoy her before fuel gets to high again-then its just to supermarket on Sundays. Booooo! also, With the brakes,just hate having to heavy brake pedal it, I try to justify (in my head)the warmup time to her age.
 
So you know that there is a problem with the p/n switch, why not fix it? the ecm does use it for IAC control. Like I said before, if everything is working correctly, you wont even notice the fast idle after driving a a very short time.

Don't feel like ripping apart my tilt column,just want to try to enjoy her before fuel gets to high again-then its just to supermarket on Sundays. Booooo! also, With the brakes,just hate having to heavy brake pedal it, I try to justify (in my head)the warmup time to her age.
 
A definition and how and when a gm engine goes into closed loop. CLOSED LOOP – Closed Loop is a term in which the ECM uses feedback from the O2 sensor to make corrections to the air fuel ratio. Another name for this term is short term fuel trim. The ECM makes immediate but temporary corrections to the fuel delivery to maintain the AFR at 14.7. The only ratio that can be maintained in closed loop is 14.7. This is due to the nature of the type oxygen sensor used on most passenger cars. There are other types of O2 sensors called wide band sensors, but they are expensive. They can be used to monitor the AFR at other than 14.7 AFR. The short term fuel trim value is called the Integrator in most early scantools. The value of the integrator varies above and below 128 with 128 being no correction. For ex., if the integrator is 140, the ECM is adding fuel because the O2 sesnor is reading a lean mixture. If the Integrator is 115, the ECM is removing fuel because the O2 sensor is reading a rich mixture. Anytime the system is not in closed loop, the Integrator will immediately return to a value of 128 and stay there. There is only one Integrator and its value is solely dependent on the O2 sensor. When the engine is started, the ECM will keep the Integrator at 128 until the ECM determines that the O2 sensor is working correctly and that the engine temperature and time delays before entering closed loop constraints have been satisfied. The problem with the Integrator is that its value cannot be used to determine how far away from 14.7 AFR you are. The value of the Integrator does however increase or decrease the longer you are above or below the 14.7 AFR. The time aspect is probably where the Integrator gets its name. If you have studied calculus, you'll know what I mean. Otherwise, its beyond the scope of this document to explain. The Integrator and BLOCK LEARN work together to re-tune the system to match any engine's charactersitics, up to a practical limit.
Hope this helps.
No calculus....o2 sensor is good....but I never heard the terminology of an integrator,so that's interesting to me. Thanks for the info
 
If the o2 doesn't heat up fast enough it will take much longer to go into
Closed loop. Only way is to test it. Easier to replace it with a nice heated one if possible. Would cut your warm up time in half from what I've read. Mine only takes 2-3 minutes to
Idle down. Initial startup stays at 1100 only for about 30 seconds then starts coming down. Once put in drive it drops to 7-800 until fully warm. And then around 5-600 rpm. When's the last time the o2 was replaced?
 
If the o2 doesn't heat up fast enough it will take much longer to go into
Closed loop. Only way is to test it. Easier to replace it with a nice heated one if possible. Would cut your warm up time in half from what I've read. Mine only takes 2-3 minutes to
Idle down. Initial startup stays at 1100 only for about 30 seconds then starts coming down. Once put in drive it drops to 7-800 until fully warm. And then around 5-600 rpm. When's the last time the o2 was replaced?
02 was replaced couple months back when i had to put back on a stock exhaust[longer story] but has always had a long warm up... wish mine had your warmup ..if you get the chance read through this whole thread.. lots of good info....
 
Nothing wrong with replacing it with a heated one. the TBI will not go into closed loop until the O2 is heated up, regardless of any other input of any other sensor. Replace it with a heated, your closed loop time will be cut in half. There is no other way of doing it other than holding the throttle open and warming it up manually.
 
Yeah that's where I'm at too. The switch in the steering column drops rpm too once it's in gear from what other guys are saying. Good luck.
 
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