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Update 8/2 with pics..... Anyone cut d60 steering arms themselves?

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badriver19

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Updated 8/1 .... with pics.
ive got a waterjet and i would like to cut a crossover arm for myself. all i need is some dimensions such as the distance from the front studs to the drag link end hole and also the taper details, hole size details, and what to do with the kingpin cap.

it would be nice to just cut it myself to save $100 or more on an arm.

has anyone else done this?
 
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How thick do you plan on making the arm? The answer will affect how you approach the kingpin cap question, as well as overall strength of the unit.

If you make your arm like Sky Mfg., the kingpin cap is integral to the arm. The arm is very thick (like 2" or so) and the kingpin spring relief is simply machined out of the arm stock. An ORD style arm is thinner and they then weld an OEM-style cap on after a circle is cut all the way through the arm.

You'll either need to run a heim joint through a straight hole, or use a 1.5"/ft taper reamer for the GM tie-rod end ($95 tool from the likes of Poly Performance). You'll also need to taper the stud holes for taper nuts (not sure of the angle there).

I understand the desire to DIY...but in this case I don't know that you're going to come out much ahead versus just buying an arm.
 
Set them up to use a set screw instead of a kingpin spring. It is by far a better setup for big heavy tires. The springs tend to start deflecting and the set screws are pretty much killer for solving that problem.

You drag link end to kingpin length should be the same as the distance from your drag link end to sector shaft on your pitman arm. Otherwise, you will end up with under/oversteer and lose turning radius or need to play with your steering stops.

Having a longer pitman arm wouldn't be all that bad, but you will lose leverage with the gain of quicker turning. Problem I see with it is that even with the axle in stock location and a pretty short pitman arm, my draglink angles forward a bit as it moves to the passenger side. I think the ideal length for a pitman/steering arm with the axle in stock location on our trucks is something like 6.25".
 
The waterjet should do the taper while cutting the holes. Somehow, I have missed working on one of those, but wire EDM machines will cut tapered holes to whatever taper you want, no reaming required, and they are old technology compared to WJs. NO WAY they can't cut the taper.
If the WJ is sophisticated enough, you should be able to call up a CAD drawing of the arm, run it through a post processor, put a block of steel in the WJ, let it edge find and then just hit run and walk off.
When you come back there will be a finished arm. Minus any threading needed.

J.
 
If there are enough wheelers around you, I would go ahead and make the arms. Then you can make them for other people and make some $$$ ;) But if this is a one time thing, just order them from a company
 
not only the taper in the holes but the taper to make the TRE straight up and down. Look at other steering arms that are sold they are tapered where the hole is so the TRE is level
 
the idea i had was to make the arm similar to the ord design. it wouldnt be difficult to cut i just need the material and a few critical dimensions. ive got all of the machines to do most of it except maybe the taper in the hole for the DLE.

the waterjet cant do the taper as it is not a 5 axis head.

i should be able to just cut a template to make sure everything is good and then cut the actual arm out of 1 inch or whatever we have out there. then all i need to do is weld on the kingpin spring cap, machine the centering tapers for the studs, machine the taper at the end of the arm (does this have to be done?), and finally taper the hole for the DLE.

i just need to get ahold of some of the dimensions that i listed in the first post.

anymore ideas?

thanks for the input so far
 
Here's a couple of pictures of mine





I cut of the cap and welded it to the steering arm.
That way you can use stock studs.
Finding longer studs is next to impossible, you'll have to fab them yourself

Unfortunately I've lost the drawing I made.
But I remember some of the dimensions.

The milled angle to get the DLE level is 10degrees (same as kingpin inclination axis)

The length from center of DLE hole to center of kingpin cap was 6", but that depends on what pitman arm you're using, as Owenst7 stated.
But I'd say you can get away with using a steering arm that is 1.1 times longer than the pitman arm without risk of not being able to steer fully lock to lock.

I think you're better of using a mill instead of a waterjet, both for the angle, and to get a good machined surface where it mates to the knuckle.

The taper for the DLE is 1.5"/foot as longbedder stated, but it can also be written 8:1 (or ~7.15 degrees)
and the taper for the tapered nuts are 60 degrees
 
the arm looks good fred.

i think im going to give it a shot.

what thickness did you make yours out of?

also is the hole for the DLE perpendicular to the 10 degree taper or perpendicular to 0 degrees before the taper, if that makes sense?

im only using the waterjet for the outline and the main holes of the arm. all of the tapering of the end of the arm and the holes will be done on the mill.

thanks for the pics and measurements too
 
the hole is perpendicular to the 10* taper has to be to get the TRE to fit flat.
 
Thanks,
The DLE hole is perpendicular to the 10 degrees as Blazinzuk said.
Otherwise it wouldn't be of much help.
I think the thickness was about 1" but I can check that tomorrow.
 
Not all D60 steering arms are created equal. The problem we have run into is bending the arms when using full hydro and a single ended ram. The amount of force from the ram will eventually twist the arm. Arms designed like the one pictured that was made and Sky arms seem to work better for that application. Double ended rams and hydro assist seem to work well with any arms. When I changed the arm on the Bronco the flat taper was twisted down quite a bit. The driver side arm also has a twist to it and will be getting changed too. Having a gradual taper going toward the front of the arm seems to add quite a bit of strength to keep them from twisting.
 
Im going to bring this thread back up again as i am about ready to cut the arm.

it was mentioned to use a springless design with a set screw and i also saw a thread with the brass kingpin bushings by i believe c&m. how is the springless arm designed? does the set screw push against a disc on top of the bushing or is it done another way.

ive got some 1.25" steel with more than enough to do the arm. if i can figure out the springless setup i will run it but if not i can just weld a cap to the arm with the stock depth and shim the spring for more pressure. i believe i have everything figured out with the exception of the tapering of the hole and for that i was considering just cutting a straight hole perpendicular with the 10 degree taper and using the insert that ballistic fab offers. any thoughts to this or the springless setup?
 
badriver19; said:
does the set screw push against a disc on top of the bushing
Click to expand...
yup, exactly. It's a very simple design with one less wear item. I believe you want to torque the set screw to around 15 ft-lbs, but I can say for sure as I do that stuff by feel personally.
 
is there any advice about using the tapered insert from ballistic for the drag link end hole in the arm?

ive got set screws and jam nuts on order and as soon as the waterjet is back up and running i will cut the arm and driver cap to use with the set screws.
 
It should work, but maybe you should make that end of the steering arm a little wider than you would have otherwise...
How "wide" is the tapered insert? do you have a link or a pic?
 
Me neither, I say go for it!:waytogo:
It's cheaper than to have to buy a reamer for just one hole.
 
yeah no kidding, ill just cut the arm on the water jet without the drag link end hole or the kingpin set screw hole and then drill and tap the set screw hole and taper the arm and drill the dle hole and weld in the adapter.
 
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