Update on my truck

[78Suburban]

The brakes feel like they are about gone. I can push it untill it bottoms out, and there isn't much resistance untill it firmly bottoms. I was thinking maybe I had snagged a brake line, but I popped the top and it was full of brake fluid. Where does that lead us? Bad MC? Maybe I do have a small fluid leak but it just hadn't drained it down far enough to tell yet?

Here are a few pics of the turd

I had welded a strip of angle iron inside the hood to remedy the kink, now the hood has decided to kink behind that angle iron.

My 30 year old batter box took a dump after beating on my truck, imagine that

any ideas on the brakes boys?
thanks,
James

 

[readymix]

Have you tried to adjust the rear shoes out yet?

 

[78Suburban]

Have you tried to adjust the rear shoes out yet?

no. Could mud have gotten into the drum brakes and be causing the whole thing? Before the last 2 or 3 wheeling adventures, it would lock the brakes up on pavement.. now it'll barely stop.

 

[readymix]

That could cause it

 

[OffRoad]

maybe your brakes are just worn out?

either that or they're prolly just full of mud.

 

[78Suburban]

I know they're not worn out. They worked great not too long ago (2 months ago). I was thinking I had sprung a leak, but it wouldn't be full of fluid if I had, right? Maybe the master cylyinder has some bad seals?

How do I take the dust shield off the front brakes, and how to I tear down the rear drum brakes in the rear? I have a corp 10 up front and 14ff out back. All stock k20 stuff. maybe I've just got mud up in there.
thanks,
James

 

[1979jimmy350]

for the rears you need to remove the axle shaft then the hub and the drum comes off with that, to get the hub off you will need a hub socket

 

[78Suburban]

for the rears you need to remove the axle shaft then the hub and the drum comes off with that, to get the hub off you will need a hub socket

that's no fun........what about the front, how do I get those dust shield's off? maybe they're packed full of mud

 

[Drey]

if ya wanna go the easy route just get in there with a hose get everything good and wet, then hit it with a powerwasher to try and blow the crap out.

your best bet is to pull the stuff all apart to clean then while your at it you can check your shoes, drums, discs, pads, etc.

 

[pvfjr]

Sounds like it's time for that disc brake conversion. Besides, it'll shed some of that weight you're always talking about getting rid of. They clean out a LOT better in the mud, and you won't need to adjust them. Nice battery box BTW.

 

[lamberthkp]

dang bud you just cant win can ya.

 

[78Suburban]

dang bud you just cant win can ya.

In the famous words of my neighbor "if you're gonna play, you're gonna pay".. I'm a little rough on stuff I suppose

 

[Chevy305]

I highly sugest converting to braided stainless steel brake lines. Throw out those bubber stock ****s and replace them with something that won't expand as you hit the brakes. That means fimer pedal and decreased stopping distances plus they last so much longer than the rubber hoses.

I noticed a good difference in my truck stopping power. I'm not saying this will solve all braking problems you are having, but it can never hurt. Also make sure you get that mud out of those brakes!

 

[78Suburban]

I highly sugest converting to braided stainless steel brake lines. Throw out those bubber stock ****s and replace them with something that won't expand as you hit the brakes. That means fimer pedal and decreased stopping distances plus they last so much longer than the rubber hoses.

I noticed a good difference in my truck stopping power. I'm not saying this will solve all braking problems you are having, but it can never hurt. Also make sure you get that mud out of those brakes!

Got any part numbers? How about for extended ones, in case I ever go with a 4" lift? If they're very expensive, I doubt I'll get them.

 

[Chevy305]

Got any part numbers? How about for extended ones, in case I ever go with a 4" lift? If they're very expensive, I doubt I'll get them.

about $85 for both front lines and $44 for the rear line. Check them out here: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SJA%2DRBL21&N=400135+307467+4294908216+4294908180+115&autoview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SJA%2DFBL26&N=400135+307467+4294908216+4294908180+115&autoview=sku

These are the Sky Jacker brand and they are a direct bolt in and they are DOT certified. I installed the ones meant for the 6-8in lift for the extra length. The pictures are not accurate though so don't get the wrong impression from them.