Upgrade 90 V2500 to 93-95 K2500?

[Brett68]

Contemplating upgrading from my 90 V2500 Suburban to a early to mid 90's 2500 suburban. I picked up my Suburban for $1100 last year and put in another thousand. The motor(350) has approximately 150k. The intake gasket is leaking coolant at the passenger rear corner, the timing chain is worn and the balancer rubber is deteriorated to the point chunks are coming out. It consumes a quart of oil every 300 miles(around town) and 200 miles on a road trip. The plugs look great and it doesn't smoke. Bizarre. If I rebuild the engine, crate motor, vortec top end, etc. I'll be into it for another 2 grand. The darn thing is only worth 1500 around here.

Rust free Suburbans are plentiful, mileage varies. I've been eyeing a couple of 93-96 K2500 Suburbans with the 454. Prices from $3k to $6k. The mileage is high. The 93 has 175k but appears to be in great shape. I was told to stay with the 94-95 with the 7427 ECM for reprogramming. I haven't gotten into that and doubt I will. I use these things like a tool to do specific jobs. One job coming up is a road trip to either Alaska or Upper Michigan next summer. No overdrive, 373's and harsh solid axle ride doesn't sound fun.

Low mileage does not exist on older Suburbans in Idaho. I realize on the 93 I looked at with 175k it is due for suspension overhaul. But it is cheaper than drivetrain overhaul. I changed out ball joints and steering linkage pitman to idler on my 94 k2500 diesel truck this summer. It had 196k miles. Ball joint rivets aren't fun. It took about 9 hours of labor(2 days) for that job and I had help. Well he did 80 percent. I work on airplanes he works on big trucks. He has the experience.

Sorry for the ramble. I'm probably just trading one set of problems for another. I need a reliable hunting vehicle that won't consume my time with major rework.

What are the major likes and dislikes of IFS equipped Suburbans?
thanks
Brett in Boise

 

[AJMBLAZER]

You hit the nail on the head...the front suspension just falls apart with mileage and use. There are upgrades but nothing cheap.

Also watch the doors. They sag and the hinges are a PITA.

Their TBI motors are the same as the older body style so check the same things.

Uhm...sounds like you won't but don't ever think of lifting one. Waste of time and money.

 

[Brett68]

I forgot about the hinges. Yes they are a pita. The suspension is a bit to be desired as far as durability. Having just done my truck in August with 196k miles it lasted quite awhile. The pitman and idler arm were completely shot. The truck was a handful to drive. Suprisingly the lower ball joints had been the greasable type from the factory and did receive regular greasings so weren't shot. But I changed them anyway since everything was apart. But I did not tackle the control arm bushings. The torsion spring setup seemed like it would be just absolutely no fun at all. That is putting it nicely(internet forum). The balljoints made me cuss like a drunken sailor. I saved 800 bucks in labor doing it with a friends major help. I doubt I could talk him into another set......for free.

Brett in Boise

 

[jeff in co]

Isn't the 95 have the newer design dash? IIRC, the 94' had the square looking dash and the 95' changed to the more rounded one. Also, Vortec might of been offered in 95 or 96.....can't remember though (and that was for the 1/2 tons).

 

[AJMBLAZER]

Round dash started in '95 and Vortec V8's and OBD-II started in '96.

 

[dhcomp]

Round dash started in '95 and Vortec V8's and OBD-II started in '96.

Dead on.

I second what has been said here. If you don't mind redoing ALL the suspension bushings/bj's, etc, you should be fine. Really, i gave up on my old 94 blazer for this reason. Also remember, BJ's and upper control arm joints aren't fun....but its the lowers that suck. To do the lowers, you need to unload/remove the Torsion bars. I never had the time/motivaiton to go thorugh with this.

Agree that the door hinges are a concern, but really, they are NOT hard to do. Buy the $30-40 spring compressor tool. I did my 2 door (both front doors) in under 2 hrs wiht a friend's help. Pad top of jack stands to support door, remove spring, punch out pins (while buddy supports door), pound out bushings, press new ones back in with socket and HUGE channel locks, clean door jamb if you are anal, reinstall pins, reinstall springs.

Doors shut like a new truck afterwards. SO, not a concern of mine with those rigs.

Really, I think it comes down to which rig you like better. I have a way easier time buying a high mileage 80-91 rig than i do the 92+. We've now sold a 94, and a 2001 mainly due to funky suspension movement/noises.