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upgrading axles noob Q

shrpshot85

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Hey guys, Im sure alot of people ask this question but im new to all this. I own a 91 blazer with 9inch lift, 38 tires 383 stroker w/ upgraded valves, cams and heads . The front is a D44 and rear is 12b. From what i have read my set up is going to be a big problem when it comes to breaking axles. I want to upgrade axles, but am not sure what are my options? d60? Could you guys tell me what will be suitible for me and give a stab at a price for it all out the door, just to see wat im getting into (Im sure its bad)?
 
First of all, the D44 and 12B would not be stock on a 91, those should be 10b axles front and rear. However, they could have been changed at any point in it's life.

For strength you could swap in a D60 front and a 14bff for the rear. The FF will have to come from a 3/4 ton truck to match up the spring perch widths. You will also need the spring plates front and rear to work with the axles. The truck needs to be prior to 88 when the body switched, the later models are not the same spring perch width from what I understand.

As for prices, they vary widely around the country, and finding a D60 will be the real challenge in many places. It seems that most D60 go for around 1k depending on condition and repairs needed to make them streetworthy.
 
Are all Gm 10.5 14 bolt rear ends ff? Its on an 89 suburban
No, there are full floats, semi floats and also 6 lug semi floats. IIRC most subs would be a semi float, I could be mistaken though :D
 
If its FF it'll have a big round thing, a little bigger than a soup can, with a circle of bolts on the end sticking out of the middle of the wheel, if its flat there with no bolts then its a SF.
 
No, there are full floats, semi floats and also 6 lug semi floats. IIRC most subs would be a semi float, I could be mistaken though :D

All of the 10.5" (that was specifically mentioned) 14-bolts are full-floaters and 8-lug that I have ever seen. There is a 9.5" 14-bolt that is semi-floating and came in 8-lug, 6-lug, and the rare 5-lug form.

Back to the original questions, it really depends on what you intend to do with the truck. Is it a hardcore wheeler or a mall cruiser that runs through the mud every once in awhile (let's be honest here:D).

There is really no reason to not go with a 14-bolt FF in the back no matter what you use the truck for considering the engine power and tire size. They are cheap, easy to find, and easy to install and you should never have to worry about it again whether you are rock crawling for just doing burn-outs at the local Creamy Freeze. The only potential downside is you will need to go with 8 lug wheels, and if you currently have 15" wheels and tires and want to keep them the wheel choice is very limited (if looks are a concern).

Going to a Dana 60 front is the way to go on paper, but it greatly depends on what you want to do with the truck and how much money you have to spend. Mild use and regular maintenance/inspection will make the D44 or 10-bolt live a decent life. You can convert either axle from 6-lug to 8-lug easily and cheaply. The nice thing is that the majority of front axle failures do not disable the truck...shift into 2wd, unlock the hubs, and drive home. Rear axle failures are much more likely to diable the truck and make it a pain to get back home.
 
x2.

Someone here recently said something like, "If you aren't sure whether you need a dana 60, you probably don't."
 
keep in mind guys, he is on 38's...

35's, no question, stay on the front 10 bolt...

38's, eh, even baby-ing it, they aren't very balljoint friendly, let alone axle friendly if flogging it...
 
beat me to it.

38's, H1 beadlocks, and the added security (i wheel alone 95% of the time), are why i upgraded to the DRW 1 ton axles. Im not that hard on my rig, but when youre out where no one can hear you scream, the idea of a blown axle is not very appealing.
 
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