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upper ball joint

Justin Fleming

Justin Fleming

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I was replacing the upper ball joints today, what is the screw in insert used as. Is this just to create the tapper required or is this used to set some sort of adjustment? How far should it be screwed in etc.

thanks
 
It is for preloading the ball joint. I have the tool from snap on, S9613. I have also made the tool from a 19mm or 3/4" socket with a grinder.
 
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MAX89K5 said:
Yup that's your camber/caster adjustment. Definitely try to get it back where it was!
Click to expand...

Well no not exactly. The aftermarket offered some sleeves to fix up bent housings/ add 1* camber to the 0* front end but the stock sleeves are just a straight taper.
 
I understand in factory form they are straight. I should have said that if you wished to have adjustment you would replace them with a taper with an offset hole.
 
IMO stick with straight. Measure your angle afterwords and if need be put some camber spindle shims on. I just like those over the tapered sleeves.
 
I had to replace one of my upper ball joints.

I got the Moog's and pressed it in and used the threaded sleeve tool and all that stuff.
When I tighted down the castle but it went past the cotter pin hole before getting to torque.

Did I do something wrong? :dunno:
 
ball joint

So I have both upper and lower ball joints pressed into the knuckle properly now (took two trys as I had the one grease nipple point incorrectly). So as I am starting to tighten up the lower ball joint nut while moving the knuckle back and forth I am not even to 75ft and it is to a point where it is hard to turn the knuckle by hand.

Am I missing something here? I double checked the top screw in sleeve and back it out some to make sure that was not the problem....

Please advise....

thanks
 
also the other item that seems weird is that I started to torque the top ball joint sleeve and it threads down thru the knuckle and does not reach 50ft before my socket reach starts to hit the taper on the ball joint stud. Does this seem right? you can see the threaded piece coming thru the knuckle a few threads and its down towards the dust boot...
 
Dont worry about the knuckle being hard to move. Its simply because the balljoint is stiff from being brand new.


As far as the adjuster going down very far, Ive had it happen to me on a housing. I wound up having to cherry the top part of the C of the axle up with a torch and bash it down with a sledge. Im not certain if it was a bent C or if the sleeve/balljoint I had was just not right.
 
Stomis said:
Dont worry about the knuckle being hard to move. Its simply because the balljoint is stiff from being brand new.


As far as the adjuster going down very far, Ive had it happen to me on a housing. I wound up having to cherry the top part of the C of the axle up with a torch and bash it down with a sledge. Im not certain if it was a bent C or if the sleeve/balljoint I had was just not right.
Click to expand...

does anyone else have any input? Does anyone have a good dimension on a "C" when nothing is loaded in it....
 
so I have gotten back at looking at this and I removed the new sleeve for inspection. What I have noticed now is that the old sleeves where off set and the new sleeves are straight ones. So now I guess I need to get to the alignment shop to get the cast camber where it needs to be....

Is there a general rule of thumb on the direction the offset goes? Fat side towards the front skinny towards the back or something of that nature....
 
Justin Fleming said:
so I have gotten back at looking at this and I removed the new sleeve for inspection. What I have noticed now is that the old sleeves where off set and the new sleeves are straight ones. So now I guess I need to get to the alignment shop to get the cast camber where it needs to be....

Is there a general rule of thumb on the direction the offset goes? Fat side towards the front skinny towards the back or something of that nature....
Click to expand...



Theres is no need for offset sleeves. Put the straight ones in and run it. The only way your alignment will be out is if your housing is bent. And even if it is spindle shims are a much better way to fix it.
 
as a guy who use to do a lot of alignments .......

spindle shims / faster & easy .

the upper sleave can be a bear to align as needed and or get it to turn . ( up here in the rust belt anyways ) also spindle shim is reusable more than the sleave is in my opinion .
 
Justin Fleming said:
also the other item that seems weird is that I started to torque the top ball joint sleeve and it threads down thru the knuckle and does not reach 50ft before my socket reach starts to hit the taper on the ball joint stud. Does this seem right? you can see the threaded piece coming thru the knuckle a few threads and its down towards the dust boot...
Click to expand...

I had the same problem when using cheap brand of balljoint, after comparing to the original balljoints you can easily see the difference. Ended up taking them back and got some raybesto premium brand which are reboxed spicer pieces and had no further problems with the top adjuster.


 
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