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Upper rear shock mounts?

American84K5

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Midland, TX
Anyone have pictures of their stock ones?

Any replacement stock ones?

I think mine broke off or were cut off, no clue.
Anyway, they drilled holes for my rear shocks in the fame and I has cracks now. :(
 
Anyone have pictures of their stock ones?

Any replacement stock ones?

I think mine broke off or were cut off, no clue.
Anyway, they drilled holes for my rear shocks in the fame and I has cracks now. :(

Passenger side is just a hole in the frame forward of the diff. A studs bolts into that hole. Common for the hole to be wollered out, and or cracked around the hole.

Drivers side there is a stamped plate riveted to the top of the frame rear of the diff. The stud is bolted to that plate. Common failure is the stud and part of the stamped plate break right off.

I've had to fix both sides a few times on various K5's I've owned.

Rene
 
So, what should I do?

Leave them bolted into the frame?

Going by StevoandaRedK5 picture, this is where mine were bolted to
boltedhere.jpg


Leave them there or make a little plate for them to bolt to up top?

Thanks guys
 
post in the garage you will get way more responses. I ran imboarded on my last rig, might do it on this one to, i donno yet.
 
On this shock inboarding, what shocks are used? I have a 4" spring lift and I was curious about this. Also, what mods are required for the lower mounts?
 
On this shock inboarding, what shocks are used? I have a 4" spring lift and I was curious about this. Also, what mods are required for the lower mounts?

Length will vary by vehicle it would be best to measure once it's in. Lower shock mounts just need to be cut off and new ones welded on.
 
Awesome, thanks! So I guess I just order the lower shock mounts they also sell but have them modified for my housing, and then measure for shocks? Where should I put the lower mounts on the housing?
 
I like to put them so there is nothing hanging below the axle tubes, and outboard as far as is practical. As far as the top side goes ideally you want as vertical a set-up as is possible.

I would find a way to max out the articulated travel of the rear suspension and take some measurements of both the compressed side and the fully extended side. With 4" of spring lift you will likely be looking at a shock length of between 10.5" and 12" of stroke. This will also be the ideal time to ensure your bumpstops actually function. I found my extended bumpstops missed the upper spring plate by a fair bit...

Rene
 
Here are my lower mounts

blog_attachment.php


And where I put them (just inboard of the u-bolts)

blog_attachment.php


Those are the shocks that cam with the 4" lift. The tops are mounted at the furthest outboard position on the DIY4X kit. Since then I replaced the shocks with 11.25" travel, 28" extended versions.

blog_attachment.php
 
Good topic as i was under my blazer today mounting a new fuel pump and noticed that both upper shock mounts had been replaced and new ones welded in with supports. Im guessing this was a problem from the factory??
 
It is a common problem area. If there was a design issue that was overlooked it was the bumpstop. There is a metric assload of flex in the rear, so it's pretty easy to fully compress the shock before the springs are maxxed out, and on the opposite side it's equally easy to fully extend the shock before the spring hits full droop. Both scenarios put a lot of stress on the upper shock mounts.

Inboarding helps address this problem because you have much more 'room' for longer shocks with the ability to choose the upper location that gets the shock in the sweet spot.

Longer shocks in the stock location helps with the droop side of the problem, but they will bottom out a lot faster. The factory bumpstop is pretty much useless when the axle travel is extremely articulated. It misses the upper spring plate by a lot. Even extended bumps tend to miss in that situation. It appears the bumps stops from the factory were meant to hit their targets when the entire diff compresses.

Rene
 

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