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Urethane paint pores?

mark84k5

mark84k5

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I painted the interior of my truck with urethane paint and it has what looks like micro pores! You can only see them if you put your face like 6” away but it definitely doesn’t look right. I will be painting the outside the same color and definitely don’t want the hole truck to have these. Can someone help me. The truck has epoxy primer and then a couple layers of sealer. Sealer was brought down to 320g before paint. Paint was done last Saturday and I started wet sanding yesterday. I have wet sanded down to 2000g before I cut and buffed a small area to see what it would look like and I’m not happy. All primers and paints were sold to me by the same paint supply shop that told me they would work together. The rubbing compound is by 3m. I did wool, then the black pad then the yellow pad.IMG_6079.jpegIMG_6077.jpeg
 
did you follow the data sheet? it looks like solvent pop... how thin was it? what did you final wash it with?
 
ryoken said:
did you follow the data sheet? it looks like solvent pop... how thin was it? what did you final wash it with?
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Final wash was with wax and grease remover and a micro fiber cloth. I here is pics of the data sheet and the stuff I’m using. The last pic is the paint cup I’m using. I don’t have any cups that have a 6:1:1 so I put lines next to the lines I’m using. 1st line is paint the the next two are 1:1 activator and hardener. The hardener is for lower temps not sure if that is effecting it.IMG_6080.jpegIMG_6081.jpegIMG_6082.jpegIMG_6083.jpegIMG_6084.jpegIMG_6086.jpeg
 
What was the temperature when you sprayed it? I’m a newb so I’m trying to learn something.
 
ryoken said:
it may be... low temp means fast reducer.... it may be flashing off too quickly to get the solvent out, if it's hot out....
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That is one of the things I was thinking as well. My activator is for 50-60 degree temp but it was around 85degrees the day I sprayed. The supply store gave me that because I’m spraying in a garage. Should I just sand it all down and respray or just leave it. It’s behind the seat. But I just don’t want this to happen on the exterior.
 
mark84k5 said:
That is one of the things I was thinking as well. My activator is for 50-60 degree temp but it was around 85degrees the day I sprayed. The supply store gave me that because I’m spraying in a garage. Should I just sand it all down and respray or just leave it. It’s behind the seat. But I just don’t want this to happen on the exterior.
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you should be safe just overcoating it... just make sure it's THOROUGHLY dry.. and wet cross block it till all the imperfections are gone... or at least finish sand it wet..

a paint job is only as good as the substrate..

i would probably go 400 instead of 320.. still plenty of bite for uro, but a bit tighter so it wont suck up reducers from the topcoat... plus it'll help minimize sandthru's...
 
ktmoutfront said:
In picture number 2 there are some sanding marks. Is this the primer/sealer not getting smooth also? Guide coat on the primer in black does wonders to see that.
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Those maybe from my wet sanding. I started at 600 and went to 2000g. But I should let you guys know I’m not a paint guy. I have painted things but not to this level mainly just chassis stuff.
 
Those sanding marks are from a heavy grit. Deep and wide. I have never gone higher than 600 grit on primer for a single stage. Usually just get to 400 no mater what the base coat is.
 
standard prep "sands" are 320 or 4 for uro and 600 for most basecoats and lacquer... a lot of solid bases can go over 4, but not advisable on any metallic IMO....

i cut almost all paint initially with 6... heck gelcoat stuff is usually 400.. if it's something finnicky like a heavy metallic, i'll go right to 1000.. what's funny to an old guy like me is, I've RARELY in my life sanded past 1500.. all the modern 3000 trizac, orbitals and chit is out of my wheelhouse..

I'm rotary to the core... :haha:
 
ryoken said:
standard prep "sands" are 320 or 4 for uro and 600 for most basecoats and lacquer... a lot of solid bases can go over 4, but not advisable on any metallic IMO....

i cut almost all paint initially with 6... heck gelcoat stuff is usually 400.. if it's something finnicky like a heavy metallic, i'll go right to 1000.. what's funny to an old guy like me is, I've RARELY in my life sanded past 1500.. all the modern 3000 trizac, orbitals and chit is out of my wheelhouse..

I'm rotary to the core... :haha:
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Maybe I wrote that wrong. Primer was sanded to 400. Paint was wet sanded from 600 to 2000. I may have some scratches in the primer that are deep. I think I’ll finish buffing that area and make a decision where to go from here. Because it’s behind the seat i may just let it slide depending how it buffs out. As for painting the exterior I think I’ll try a different temp activator that more matches ambient temp. I timed the coats to 15minutes inbetween coats but may change it to 20-30. I’ll try to tune the gun more to get a more consistent spray pattern. I appreciate everyone’s input . Thank you.
 
I will post updates on the exterior but it’s gonna be a minute. I don’t have all the fenders and quarters yet!
 
mark84k5 said:
Maybe I wrote that wrong. Primer was sanded to 400. Paint was wet sanded from 600 to 2000. I may have some scratches in the primer that are deep. I think I’ll finish buffing that area and make a decision where to go from here. Because it’s behind the seat i may just let it slide depending how it buffs out. As for painting the exterior I think I’ll try a different temp activator that more matches ambient temp. I timed the coats to 15minutes inbetween coats but may change it to 20-30. I’ll try to tune the gun more to get a more consistent spray pattern. I appreciate everyone’s input . Thank you.
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yeah, i was just talking "in general" not your specific issue...don't be afraid to throw an extra coat on if you feel your gonna be cut/buffing the outside pretty good.. shooting in a garage tends to need that.....
 
ryoken said:
yeah, i was just talking "in general" not your specific issue...don't be afraid to throw an extra coat on if you feel your gonna be cut/buffing the outside pretty good.. shooting in a garage tends to need that.....
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That’s good advice. Especially since cutting and buffing is new to me aswell.
 
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