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Using dodge steering arm on chevy 60 axle

Mudstud

1/2 ton status
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Did a search and found nothing- would like to hear from someone who has done this- do you or do you not need to machine the 4 holes on the dodge steering arm or maybe replace the chevy studs with dodge studs? or bolt right up?
 
For front to back? Any particular reason why?

I think it'd bolt right up. I can't imagine why it wouldn't.
 
The bolt pattern is the same. They use different types of ends and are hard to make work together. Go with x-over or use a GM arm. (I have a dodge axle in my K5 and battled this before x-over)
 
As stated, they are a direct bolt up. The trick is with the drag link. Dodge mounts the drag link from the bottom up where GM mounts it top down, basically the tapered hole goes in the wrong direction. There is enough meat to have the hole reamed in the opposite direction with the correct (bigger) GM taper, I know two guys that have done this (one is TARussell here).
 
Not to highjack but I had a guy tell me that if you use a dodge stearing box, it changes the way the arm rotates so if doesn't put as much strain on the frame and should eliminate the frame cracking problem. Anyone done this?
He showed me and it makes sence. /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 
Thanks for the good answers. Don't have $400 for cross over so trying to go a cheaper route. What I've got is a 76 K5 with 6" of lift. I currently have a 44 under it with the 4" raised steering arm and the Superlift 2" drop drag link. Figured I could run the 2" drop drag link with the dodge arm and be pretty close to good on the steering geometry. Guess my next question is are my drag link ends the same size as the 1 ton drag link ends? If not then I gotta contact Superlift and see if I can get a 1 ton end that will thread into my drop drag link.
 
I used the Dodge arm and had the tappered hole welded up and reemed(sp) it out on the top side to match the GM tappered size - it works GREAT ! With a 4" lift it keeps the rod level with a stock GM pitman arm .
Note : I have to give NEVRENUF ( John ) credit for showing me this cool trick .Thanks ! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
Tom
 
I hate to say this, but I think you'll really regret it if you do not do crossover steering at this time. I wouldn't spend any money on front to back steering for a '60 unless road use is all you intend for it.

If you're using it on the road, wait and get crossover.

Otherwise, just do full hydro. Full hydro can be done for $200 or less if you find the parts in the right place.

I wish I'd just gone full hydro before I bought my crossover, I would have saved a bit of cash. I'm happy with my current crossover/hydro with 2" ram though.
 
So are the drag link ends on the .5 and .75 ton stuff the same as the 1 ton- same size ends?? Perhaps it would be cost effective to buy the 4" drop drag link from Superlift, sell my 2" drop and then run the factory dodge arm untouched.
So where are good places to look at hydro parts. Heavy equipment bone yards? Any good write ups on hydro set ups?
 
[ QUOTE ]
Dodge mounts the drag link from the bottom up where GM mounts it top down, basically the tapered hole goes in the wrong direction.

[/ QUOTE ]
 
drop draglink does nothing good to your steering
it will most likely bump steer like a m'f'er
do not waste your time with a drop draglink

also the dodge steering arm makes for a shorter draglink = more bumpsteer as well

crossover does not cost anywhere near $400usd
I paid $100-125usd for the steering arm
$60usd for the pitman arm
cant recall how cheap a used 2wdr steering box was but under $50cdn
1.25"-0.219"wall DOM tubing cost me $5.50 cdn a foot last month and is the correct size for taping, you need less then 3' so less then $20
or you buy inserts and larger tubing and weld it up
 

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