CK5
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Using more then 1 spacer

No because his point is that a machine shop doesnt want to be liable for opening that stud hole up a great deal. Press in studs seat in a hole normally larger than the stud size its self.

By using a screw in stud you retain as much material and also make the joint between the spacer and stud stronger than a press in.
 
Where did the 9/16's studs thing come in? The newer trucks have metric threads, 14mm IIRC.

Why not just run basic spacers that fit the '86 axle and use smaller lugs to hold the wheel on? If the studs you swapped into the axle flanges are too big to run normal lug nuts (to retain the spacer), just use those spline-drive type lugs that are meant for narrow lug holes.
 
Don't mean to push the thread in a different direction but around here it would be easier to find a 6 bolt 9.5 semi float to swap in. When I blew up my 10 bolt did some digging and ended up with a diff out of a 97 2wd light duty 3/4 ton. And to boot it only cost me $250 for the diff. The 2wd version is wider than 4wd version and is definately better and stronger than a 10 bolt. Now my track width is the same front and back.
 
Yeah but I cant really do that since my rear axle is custom... no one makes rims for an older chevy axle with newer style lug studs with lug centric wheels or at least i cant find any.....and they have to include a 170mm center opening

the problem is not the size...


the spacers i have are 6 on 5.5 with a 170mm center opening, the problem i had was getting that for an older axle with the larger lug studs from the newer chevy

i had the axle shafts milled to accept newer larger lug studs so i could use my original rims....

Trust me ive had to return many sets to get it right and the width is still not right..


Those are during the build


the rim picture: the center is small on the rims and doesnt fit around the axle center and the brakes

the axle : 1986 10 bolt

lug studs: what came on 2000 series silverado (9/16- long studs)

Rims: factory aluminum 20" SSC rims with only 2" center opening

center hub on axle: 5"+ (or about 176mm)

problem: either you have a spacer that fits old chevy 1/2" lugs and wide opening or you have smaller opening apacer meant for 9/16 long studs (meant for 2000 years silverado)...Not both mixed


Maybe im missing something but i think your mesurment on the center bore is off 170 mm is 6.6929...." which would be bigger than the 6x5.5" bolt circle.

I'm pretty sure the dia. of the center "hub" on a 86 10 bolt rear should be under 100mm. (i know the center bore on my 85 wheels is to small to fit on my colorado which has a 100mm "hub")

hope that helps your searching.
 
The axle lug pattern was the same as the newer one 6 on 5.5.

cant use the smaller lug stud, they are way to short (by at least an inch.) and way too thin (diameter wise) and the rims were designed for the larger (yes its 14mm) lug stud.. my rims use a conical lug nut.

the 170mm diameter is the diameter of the spacer i got.. I got the axle because it was the closest to the same one in the truck and i found it in short time..

this truck is my daily driver and didnt have months to find an axle. I found it in less then a week. $150 for an axle...sold
 
I am SO glad I come from a less litigious time. My old Jeep would not have been half as much fun as it was otherwise.

Our old mechanic was one of those mechanical geniuses that come along every so often.
My father had gotten his, later my, 60 model CJ-5 stuck again.
The Konig PTO winch had gotten it out just fine, but he wanted to lessen the times he had to use it.

The mechanic said he would see what he could do.
Went over to a machine shop and started drawing.

I think I can describe this....... All sizes are 40 year old guesstimates.

They took a piece of 1/2 inch flat steel. Cut it out round to a diameter that would just fit inside a stock wheel.
Turned out a hole in center like a doughnut that was bigger than the center hole of a stock wheel.
Bored lug holes on the same pattern as stock.

They tapered those holes so that the smallest part was the same size as the largest part of the stock taper.
If you laid the piece on a wheel and sighted down through the lug holes, you would see a smooth taper all the way down.
Took a piece of double extra duty steel pipe, turned down the end to a press fit for the center hole of that piece with a slightly smaller step on the end.

Pressed the pipe into the round piece, which left a small gap in the back side due to that step.
Welded the front side, and then welded up the gap on the back side and surfaced it smooth.
Cut the pipe off at maybe 8-10 inches, no idea, just a guess.

Made another round piece to press on that end and weld.
Drilled standard pattern holes and pressed in lugs.

Then they took standard lug nuts, welded on extensions and tapered them so that they would fit both the inside spacer plate and the wheel.
Thus the lugs aligned both the wheel and the spacer so they ran true.

I would put on a standard wheel, put on the spacer, then the special lugs.
Tighten them down with a long pull handle.
Then put the second wheel on the outside.

The whole setup ran so true that after the wheels were balanced, I could run 60 with no vibration on the highway.
If either rear tire went flat, I could drive home on the other one, no problem.
If a front went flat, I could take off the outside rear and put it on the front.

They put a tapered running board from the frame out. Started where the front fender hit the body just under the door hinge, and tapered out to a big hoop over the rear tire.
If I came too close to a tree, which happened many times, the running board would just slide me away.

Of course, one memorable occasion, before I got used to it, I was driving a little too fast and tried to go between two pine trees.

Not only did I wedge the jeep between the two, but I must have hit a bump just as I did, because my wheels were barely touching the ground.

Winching forward would have cracked the frame, so I had to get out the back hatch and chop one of the trees down with a small hand hatchet.

I don't know how many miles I put on those duals over about 10 years of driving. Wore out lots of tires, and did things that people still talk about.
Never had a failure of the dual system.

I know a few people, so I could probably get something like that built today, but it would probably be a cash only, we never saw you sort of thing.......
 
Yeah but I cant really do that since my rear axle is custom... no one makes rims for an older chevy axle with newer style lug studs with lug centric wheels or at least i cant find any.....and they have to include a 170mm center opening
I have been thinking that you were just in love with the big car wheels and therefore refusing to run actual truck wheels, but then I re-read this.

What is this requirement for 170mm? I run an older axle with 6-lug shafts and 9/16 studs, which AFAIK is just a hair bigger than 14mm. These fit with aluminum wheels and then with steel wheels. This is all lug-centric with tapered lug nuts like practically ALL light duty wheels you can find. Is 170mm (6.7") that maximum size of the axle flange that will fit on the back of the rim? The outside of the bolt pattern is about 6" so you only need like 3/8" beyond that. What Chevy or Toyota rim doesn't meet that criteria? And it's better to get that offset in the rim than with spacers anyway.
 
THE 9/16 studs are factory up front and the front is still in factory form, nothing altered
So IFS got 9/16 in the front? Wouldn't this have the same tapered lug/lugcentric issue? Because that would mean the spacer isn't really the only thing keeping this from working - Or that it isn't actually an issue in the back either.

The front track width of an IFS truck is really >6" wider than the rear of a solid axle truck?
 
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