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Using roller cam without having to use retrofit lifters and camshaft!!!!!

he doesn't say ANYTHING about what it does. I think you are paying for someone to tell you where to weld on some bungs or where to drill some holes. Yep thats what you are paying for. I'd just look at a factory roller block, measure, drill and tap and save $20.
 
i would go newer block and have 1 piece seal any ways. and have all parts factory. and not machine block on lifter sides, like he did.
 
sled_dog said:
he doesn't say ANYTHING about what it does. I think you are paying for someone to tell you where to weld on some bungs or where to drill some holes. Yep thats what you are paying for. I'd just look at a factory roller block, measure, drill and tap and save $20.
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Well, since I dont have a factory roller block sitting in my garage, it will save me time to buy that packet. Besides it has all the part #'s in the packet. I hate searching for part #'s.
 
sweetk30 said:
i would go newer block and have 1 piece seal any ways. and have all parts factory. and not machine block on lifter sides, like he did.
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If you can find me a new block 406 thats been rebuilt for a $100 I am all for it. My brother bought a truck for the trans and transfercase and he didnt need the motor so I bought it for a $100, pulled it apart and its a .030 400 that looks good.
 
only issue with the 1 piece blocks is that the lifter valleys can be weak. Last block I went to build was cracked by the cam hole in the front and my friend that owns the race shop I took it to said hes seen entire lifter valleys collapsed in on the camshaft.
 
Trying to put factory hydraulic roller lifters into a 1986 and older engine is not an easy task as there are a few things that need to be done.

The lifter bore tops would need to be machined flat and to a given height to accept the lifter cross bars.

The lifter valley would need to have 3 threaded stand offs welded in place in the proper position to bolt the lifter spider cage down that holds the cross bars in place.

A factory hydraulic roller cam will not bolt directly into an early block unless the front of the block has been highly modified as well for a cam thrust plate. Along with a factory roller cam you also need to change to the timing set for a hydraulic roller cam as they are different as well.
 
you could run a thrust button but the factory roller setup is FAR FAR FAR superior retention than the cam button IMO.
 
I'm 100% positive that the front of the factory roller cams are different and you cannot use an early timing chain set on the later roller cams. This means you would have to machine the front of the block to accept the thrust plate.
 
could just run a retrofit camshaft vs the oem styles they sell. And then run a thrust button and a heavy duty timing cover. But like I said, I think that is really crappy. Oh and Bronze drive gear on the distributor.
 
4X4HIGH said:
I'm 100% positive that the front of the factory roller cams are different and you cannot use an early timing chain set on the later roller cams. This means you would have to machine the front of the block to accept the thrust plate.
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since you're so positive, can you please explain why my 96 Vortec 5.7 timing gear is absolutely identical to one i have that came from a '74 350?
15098IMAG0062.JPG

can you tell the difference between the two?

FWIW, one looks to be deeper than the other, but the distance from the rear face of the gear to the thrust surface is identical.
 
what I want to know is why are the timing chains from real motors sitting under the hood of what looks like a Honda?
 
it's a 95 Pontiac Grand Am. i purchased it for $100 with the thoughts of fixing it (diagnosed as a broken timing chain) and selling it for a large profit. it cranks with 150 +/- psi on all 4 cylinders, so i was thinking either fuel or spark related, and found that i do not have 12v to the injectors, nor out of the ECM to the injectors. i was offered $600 for it on Friday, so its probably going to get offed for a large profit, and all i did to it was put a new knock sensor in it (after breaking the old one trying to remove it to test) $120 total investment, $600 sale price, 400% profit for no real work, sounds like a hell of a deal to me. once its gone, the 96 Grand Am gets to come into the garage and have the engine pulled, and i'll throw a crank kit in it, and off it in the neighborhood of $3-3.5K, total investment as it sits right now... $100...
 
I'm not sure about the vortec engines but any hydraulic roller engine from 1987-1995 the bolt pattern for the cam gear is smaller than any 1955-1986 SBC.
 
the only thing different between the 87-95 and 96-99 5.7s are the heads, and the fact that the 96+ has a roller cam installed. all of the rest of the part numbers are identical. i verified this information with a GM parts catalog when i was working at the dealership right after i aquired my 96 Vortec.
 
We let us know how it goes. I, for one, would be interested in doing such mod on my "other" ride.:thumb:
 
I won an auction from him a long time ago. THe article and picks are good. He lists part numbers as well. He also lists what e-bay user names to look for to get the lifters from. He also shows the detail in modifying the lifter valley as well as dimensions for a cam walk plate. I have not done the conversion yet but I do have an LT1 cam I got on e-bay for 20.00. I have the lifter hold downs as well as 12 lifters. I need to get 4 more. All in all the information is worth the auction.

T.J.
www.tjsperformance.com
 
just remember to read

I want to ensure total understanding of this auction, your not getting any parts, just the DIY information.
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hey if you got it post it up so we all can see !!!
 
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