Valve adjustment

[Flhftw]

hello, new here.
I have a few questions and hope I can get a few answers.
I recently replaced the engine in my truck and bought a cammed 350, replaced the carburetor while I was at it with a 600cfm Holley. I have everything hooked up and running, I had a problem at first with the tv cable for the 700r4 but think I got that squared away.
Next on the list is valve adjustment and I have a loose understanding on how to do it but I think I can manage.

First question: since it’s cammed but has hydraulic lifters and stock rockers, do I still adjust the valves as suggested (half-turn down after clacking) or do I have to account for cam lift?

Second: should I set timing different than suggested, granted the timing notch is in the right spot(it wasn’t on my last 350)

 

[Bent77]

Same adjustment

Presuming the tab is correct, 10* lead and 36* total works well


Welcome to Ck5!

 

[Flhftw]

Same adjustment

Presuming the tab is correct, 10* lead and 36* total works well


Welcome to Ck5!

Thanks! Does this mean 10 degree advance? I’m sort of a novice so I’m not sure what 36 total is

 

[Bent77]

Thanks! Does this mean 10 degree advance? I’m sort of a novice so I’m not sure what 36 total is

Three types of timing

1. Lead or base timing. With the vac advance plugged, engine starts and idles at 10 before 0

2. With vac still plugged, actuate the throttle until the timing stops advancing. This should be 36ish

3. With vacuum hooked to the dizzy, actuate the throttle until it stops advancing. This is total advance timing. Probably somewhere around 45*

 

[6872xtc]

Thanks! Does this mean 10 degree advance? I’m sort of a novice so I’m not sure what 36 total is

He is meaning 10* of timing at idle, with the vacuum advance unhooked and plugged. (This is assuming that you have a stock style distributor with a vacuum advance can)
36* total is talking about how much the timing advances to when everything adds up. This means the initial timing at idle, and what the centrifugal advance adds. By the time the engine is at 3000 rpm, you who have your total timing number. If it gives more timing past 3K , some distributor work may be beneficial.

 

[Flhftw]

Awesome, thanks guys!

Any suggestions on how to keep oil from getting everywhere while adjusting the valves?

I cut the top off a stock valve cover and I didn’t seem to help too much. Could be my idle is a bit high

 

[Bent77]

Mr gasket use to make clips for the rockers

 

[6872xtc]

You have to be careful of how much you cut open on a valve cover. And even it you leave enough to just clear the socket when on an adjuster nut, you can get oil shot out to the fender. A high volume oil pump and an idle speed that is just high enough, will make a mess.
I use a couple of cloth rags to cover where I am not adjusting. Then move them around. The valve cover holds the rags in place ok. The engine fan can cause problems blowing oil and the rags, but the cloth ones stay in place better.

 

[diesel4me]

I have washed the sides of the rockers off with brake or carb cleaner ,dried them off with compressed air,and put duct tape over and around the push rod oil hole side of them,the tape will stick and stay on long enough to adjust the valves if your not too slow about it..

I've used those clips before,they didn't seem too effective for me,and its easy to knock one off with the socket as you try to get it on the nut to adjust the valve..I almost had one drop down the oil return holes in the head once!..

I also sawed open a old valve cover,that method does work well IF you cut the area only directly over the adjusting nuts,and its not easy to guess exactly where that is..if you could drill holes just big enough for the socket in exactly the right spot they would work perfect..

 

[Flhftw]

Thanks guys!

 

[wasted wages]

No need to get covered in hot oil spraying everywhere...this video is a little long, but watch it, embrace the logic behind it and use this method.
GM has millions of engines that never had a hot lash done on them... I understand that this procedure is done with fresh lifters, but I have done this many times with lifters full of oil and just compensate with the final 1/4-3/4 turn.

the beauty of this procedure is in it's simplicity...lash them all, put the valve covers on and forget it...

it's worth the time to watch the video..

 

[diesel4me]

I've set a few that way,its worked once without me having to go back and do it with the engine running ,but the other times I had to take the covers back off and tweak them with it running..
With used lifters it usually works fine,its when you put new ones in that might not have been fully "pumped up" that the lash can change once you start it up..

 

[dangerdog]

No need to get covered in hot oil spraying everywhere...this video is a little long, but watch it, embrace the logic behind it and use this method.
GM has millions of engines that never had a hot lash done on them... I understand that this procedure is done with fresh lifters, but I have done this many times with lifters full of oil and just compensate with the final 1/4-3/4 turn.

the beauty of this procedure is in it's simplicity...lash them all, put the valve covers on and forget it...

it's worth the time to watch the video..

Yes this is much easier and less messy to me. And if you are worried about new lifters you can always go back and check after engine has run a bit.

 

[1-ton]

I have a set of old valve covers that I cut off the tops of them so I can do a running adjustment on my valves without making a major mess, or catching my truck on fire with an oil fire. This is the set of oil deflectors I have, in order to do valve running valve adjustments.

 

[Cntymnty77]

hello, new here.
I have a few questions and hope I can get a few answers.
I recently replaced the engine in my truck and bought a cammed 350, replaced the carburetor while I was at it with a 600cfm Holley. I have everything hooked up and running, I had a problem at first with the tv cable for the 700r4 but think I got that squared away.
Next on the list is valve adjustment and I have a loose understanding on how to do it but I think I can manage.

First question: since it’s cammed but has hydraulic lifters and stock rockers, do I still adjust the valves as suggested (half-turn down after clacking) or do I have to account for cam lift?

Second: should I set timing different than suggested, granted the timing notch is in the right spot(it wasn’t on my last 350)

It’s funny you posted this because I was just thinking about going out and doing this with mine earlier today. I think I’m going to do it when I get home from work tomorrow.