valve cover gaskets?

[MNorby]

what the best kind of valve cover to get?
engine is a 82 454 with stamped steel tall valve covers.
Don't want to ever have to replace since is going to be a pain to get to (something about a 454 in a S10 engine compartment the valve cover is only and inch below brake booster).
Rubber, cork?, something else? Brand?

 

[RAY]

I went with fel-pro rubber. I also made sure that the gasket mounting surface was straight and didn't have any dents especially around the mounting holes. I haven't had a leak since. Knock on wood!

 

[rcamacho]

I recommend getting some vulcanized rubber gaskets but make sure they have a steel core. This keeps the gasket from slipping out of the crush. Coat with some gaskasinch or other sealant and you're good. Reusable to boot.

 

[4X4HIGH]

With a steel cover i say go with Cork, if they were aluminum covers then i would recommend the silicone rubber with the metal inserts to prevent overtightening.

 

[HarrisonTX]

I recommend getting some vulcanized rubber gaskets but make sure they have a steel core. This keeps the gasket from slipping out of the crush. Coat with some gaskasinch or other sealant and you're good. Reusable to boot.

I agree 100%. Rubber with the Steel inside.

I would absolutely not put any gasket sealer on them. There is no point.

Also, the valve covers to not have to be super tight. People torquing the vavle covers down, is a very common cause of leaks.

 

[Mr-Jack]

I don't think that i'm cheap by any means, but i've always used hi-temp rtv and a process of tightening that allowed the sealent to make good contact with both surfaces before apply correct torque to complete the seal.

I did this on my blazer and no leaks since I bought it. 406SBC
-cleaned the mounting surfaces and made sure the valve covers were straight and clean.
-applied and even layer of black hi-temp and then carefully set the valve cover down.
-started snugging up the bolts all the way around in a good pattern so that it would not warp the covers. i tightened it down until the cover starts to push out the sealant a little then stopped.
-wait for about 15 minutes (or until the sealant starts to barely setup and then apply torque values to the bolts and i'm done.

In the past i've run a bead around the outside of the cover, but have found that's pretty much un-necessary.

I don't know if this works for all applications, but i've had no leaks at all with mine for over a year and a half

 

[85extcab]

I would also use the rubber with the steel core. If you are running cheap stamped steel valve covers I would think about maybe getting some quality Alum valve covers or get some of the factory style hold down washers to spread out the clamping force on the gasket surface. Just going from personal experence.