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valve cover leaks

Chevy305

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My truck has always had valve cover leaks and I have just dealt with it. But now that I have a fresh 355 under the hood I want to eliminate these leaks as a new motor should not leak. The engine has the raised and machined valve cover rails, but even a new set of stamped valve covers couldn't stop the leaks. So I have splurged and bought a set of cast aluminum valve covers that also have a machined gasket surface. Should I just install these with a generous bead of RTV or dry gaskets or both or something else?
 
Well it should seal. I usually just smear RTV on the gasket before I put it on, more of as a glue to hold it on. Don't overtighten your bolts. If it is a cork gasket they can "relax" so double check it the next day, just a half turn should take care of it after a day or so. Don't overtighten.
 
Have you tried the higher dollar rubber gaskets with the crushproof metal ring around the bolt holes ? I had good luck with them combined with the "load spreaders" on some cheapy summit stamped covers on my last SB .
 
I have always had good luck with just a light coating of high temp black on the valve cover only, as mentioned just to hold onto the gasket, and use brake clean on a rag and clean the surface of the gasket area on the head real good. No sealant on the head, it's a rough surface and should grab the gasket when you tighten the covers down and get the engine hot.
 
the new valve covers should take care of that.

I had some old MT's on my nova and no leaks at all, except the ****ty breather that sprayed oil all over the place. went to cenerbolt heads after that though.
 
Here are my valve cover rules, pretty much has all been said allready but:

1) Newer style and cast valve covers work better than the old/cheap stamped steel ones cause they wont warp as easy. Spend the money and get some good covers.
2) 3M weatherstrip adheasive on the valve cover only.
3) Use good load spreaders
4) Tighten in a criss cross patern starting with hand tight then go over them again.
5) I think the tork spec is like 5 or 10 pounds. Use a 1/4 ratchet and hold it at the head where you get the least tork. Or you can use the race style tall finger spin bolts and just hand tighten.
6) Be sure your surfaces are good and smooth.

All that together and they should not leak even with a cork gasket, which is what I use. Hope that helps.
 
Last edited:
Here are my valve cover rules, pretty much has all been said allready but:

1) Newer style and cast valve covers work better than the old/cheap stamped steel ones cause they wont warp as easy. Spend the money and get some good covers.
2) 3M weatherstrip adheasive on the valve cover only.
3) Use good load spreaders
4) Tighten in a criss cross patern string with hand tight then go over them again.
5) I think the tork spec is like 5 or 10 pounds. Use a 1/4 ratchet and hold it at the head where you get the least tork. Or you can use the race style tall finger spin bolts and just hand tighten.
6) Be sure your surfaces are good and smooth.

All that together and they should not leak even with a cork gasket, which is what I use. Hope that helps.

all good recommendations...:waytogo:
 
I love the Mr Gasket Sure Seal (or whatever they are called) valve cover gaskets. They are just cork with a thin rubber-like coating on them, but they work fantastic! I always install them dry, with NO sealers/adhesive and they are usually reusable. And they are only $10 for a pair.
 
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