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very cheap maby do it you self crossover streeing?

screamer*145

screamer*145

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cottage grove, mn
i just looked at this site http://bulletproofsteering.com/steeringsystems.html

and the way they did a cross over was the stock nuckle between the draglink and the tirod with some high zoot grade 9 space bolt thing? /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif it looks like it would work but have never seen before they had to drill out the pass. nuckle for the bolt with the tirod mounted to the botom! now the nut on the bolt dose acepet a coter key. has any one ever tryed this or had expriance with them!

any ideas or thought will be apriceated! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

P.S.- sorry for bad spelling!
 
you'll have to run a spring under, or link suspension to clear the draglink that way. There are a few morons on that have pics of giant "Z" type drag links to work with normal spring over but they are a failure waiting to happen.
 
the thing is that i dont plan on doing the high steer just the crossover and wanted to know what people think about it and would be ok for street use also i dont see any problems if you only do the crossover part! /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
 
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basically if your running a fullside chev product, it won't fly.

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My crossover is done exactly like this,and it does work,,,
I have a 2 wheel drive box with the arm clocked front to rear,a straight drag link over to a steering arm on the pass side with a 2" block.
The truck has 8" of lift.

And yes it has the drilled out arms with the grade 9 bolts.
 
[ QUOTE ]
I have a 2 wheel drive box with the arm clocked front to rear,a straight drag link over to a steering arm on the pass side with a 2" block.
The truck has 8" of lift.


[/ QUOTE ]

Is that a 2" block between the axle and spring? Does it like like the draglink would clear if it was only 1" like a zero rate?

Eric M.
 
like I said before i am not going to do the high steer just the crossover. /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif anyway! How dose it work on pavment! also what do you mean by the block? /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif
 
the images you linked to are not high steer.
they are just crossover
perfectly acceptable way to do it if you want to run hiems
all you are saving is the search for a flattop knuckle
you would still have to get the taper machined out to perfectly match the bolt
IMO this is not a 'hand drill in the driveway' operation, but it is only your steering not something important like a subwoofer install
 
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but it is only your steering not something important like a subwoofer install

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/forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif
 
What is not safe about it? I don't know a lot about heim joints, are they not as strong as tie or draglink ends? Do they move less (can't get the same angle as with a draglink end)? Just curious.

Eric M.


subwoofer .... that's cold /forums/images/graemlins/shame.gif
 
I second that will not work on a leaf spring front end. That set up is for coil springs. There is other companies that make cross over steering for D44 and D60s /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
My crossover is done exactly like this,and it does work,,,
I have a 2 wheel drive box with the arm clocked front to rear,a straight drag link over to a steering arm on the pass side with a 2" block.


[/ QUOTE ]

well as the linked images do not use a steering arm but instead go directly to the tierod mount on the knuckle perhaps yours isnt exactly like that one
 
I'm not going to bet my life on a bolt in single shear. If you want to that is your problem.

That is rolling suicide in my opinion.

Grade 9? What a joke.

m j,

You're losing it man. Driveway drilled or milled in a machine shop, that's still a lot of stress for one bolt.
 
How does this differ from the threaded end of a tie rod? I'm not doubting if it's safe of not, I'd like to know from a structural point, what part makes it dangerous?

Eric M.
 
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What is not safe about it? ...

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IMO... the basic design doesn't look any less safe than any other crossover setup. The “190,000psi tensile strength” probably exceeds that of an OEM tire rod. The only thing that I think is unsafe about one of the previously described setups is using blocks up front (not counting the 1" zero rates). If that's what it takes to run this setup on a leaf sprung live axle Chevy then I would say it is definitely unsafe.

But as was casually mentioned earlier (in not some many words), this is you steering. Not somewhere I'd look to cut corners.
 
same as above post Tim,
if done correctly
it is as safe as the factory crimped together tierod end that uses a single attachment point and is in single shear.
the bolt isn't going to be the fail point
it is much greater size then the necked down tierod ball
 
i think he is using the blocks to clear the high steer setup witch is un safe imo but i dont want to do high steer just the crossover and it dose not look like they machine the tirod mount they just drill it out some!
 
damnit you are not getting it, he doesn't have HIGH STEER!!! High steer goes over the springs thats the way it is. Unless you have real thick leaf springs you won't need a block to clear the springs. The problem is simply this, hold on a second I will make an image.
tierodcrossover.jpg

notice the gay green line I used to demonstrate this. Notice it goes right through a leaf spring? well what am I thinking, if you REALLY want to do this and do it right you will just notch the leaf springs for clearance.
 
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also what do you mean by the block?

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The spacer block is between the knuckle and the steering arm on top of the pass side knuckle.

IMHO the bolt in shear is no less in strength than a stock tie rod end.I have seen more failures on tie rod ends and ball joints (same principle-ball and socket design)than any heim joints.
 
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