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Vibration in right front

rgretzinger

rgretzinger

1/2 ton status
Joined
Dec 8, 2010
Posts
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Location
Longvew, TX
Let em start by saying that my k-5 was sitting in a field to die fro the last 1.5 years left to die by the PO. He broke the front drive flange and didn't have the money to fix it so he removed the front drive shaft so he could still move the vehicle. OK, So I have gone through the front end of my '74 and switched to locking hubs, replaced front brakes and new ball joints on the front left (old ones were shot and right ones seemed ok). I haven't put the np203 conversion kit back in but it's next on my list. I have installed the front drive shaft and I am now getting a vibration under throttle from what feels like the right side. Before I tore everything down from the beginning the right front was shaking like crazy. The right front brake caliper was hitting the rotor even when not braking. I had the front wheels balanced but it's still there just not as bad. Any ideas on what could be going on. I don't know if it's even possible but is the front drive shaft not balanced. It might be the ball joints but they seem ok. I'm stuck. Any ideas are appreciated.
 
Have you checked the front driveshaft to see if the u-joints are good and that the ball is still good in the double joint on the front driveshaft also see if there is a lot of play in the splines. You might have a stiff u-joint in the right front knuckle that is cause it vibrate but to binding since it is all wheel drive.
 
The u joints on the front drive shaft are brand new. I am assuming you mean ball joint in the right front knuckle. It might be. The PO used this K-5 pretty hard and the left in to die. When I got it there was dried mud all under the truck and in the tightest spaces. I haven't changed the right ball joints yet because I don't want to break down the whole right side yet without having checked else where first. I did have the NP203 transfer case installed today and thought that I might stop feeling the vibration in the front right while in 2 wheel drive but it's still there. You only feel it when your foot is on the gas. When you let off it stops. This is in 2 or 4 wheel drive. This is what makes me think it might be the front right ball joints . I really don't want to break down the right side again and should have replaced the front right ball joints w
 
Its a long shot but see if you have dried mud stuffed in the square channels running through your brake rotor. Wheelin or mud dobbers can do this. Usualy wet mud will fling out but if it sat awhile soon after gettin a beating :dunno:. This would set the balance Way off though. My old scout sat in a yard for 8 years before I got it. One rotor was stuffed with mud dobber pods. Also the ball he was talkin about is inbetween the ujoints in the CV portion of your front drive shaft. They're a pain in the A$$ to change but can be done in a few hours. Took mine apart today actually. Didn't even know it was there till I started trying to pull the CV apart. Shouldnt matter though since it does it in 2WD also. Try wiggling the right knuckle Ujoint up and down. The joint might be good but the roller bearing that supports the shaft inside the back of the spindle may not be. Just a few ideas..
 
You can check ball joints by jacking the front end up and see if there is a lot of play in the ball joints. There is a u-joint in the knuckle area that sounds like it is bad from what you describe if the ball joints check good.
 
I jacked the front right up this morning and tried moving the wheel in and out to check the ball joints and I had no movement. So maybe it is the the u joint in the knuckle area. I am thinking about taking it in to my steering and alignment guy to have him check things out. I like to do things on my own but it might be best to let him go in and replace the upper and lower ball joints and the u joint in the knuckle check alignment and then be done with it. It it still vibrates then then I guess it is a bent front axle. The PO did tear up the front right drive flange before I got it.
 
Vibration is definitely from the rear drive train. It doesn't vibrate in neutral. I dropped it off at Longview Drive shaft to have the drive shaft balanced and I'll see what they come up with. I will let ya'll know what happens in case anyone else has this problem.
 
So I took it in to Longview Driveshaft and they said that I needed a new pinion yoke, rebuild the driveshaft and then they said that I need to replace the u-joints. I replaced one of the ujoints yesterday and they acted like I need new ones. All of this was going to cost $400. That sounds really high. What all do I really need. I don't trust this guy but the $80 I have already paid this guy to diagnose the problem will go towards the $400. I can already tell you, I don't like this place. It's a bring it in and let us look at it place and then try to rape you afterwards.
 
Did the shop say why you need a new pinion yoke? If the pockets that the u-joint caps ride in are not worn out from the straps being lose or missing the steel ears on the side that keeps the caps from being spit than there is no need to replace the yoke. If you are not comfortable with them than I would find another driveline shop.
 
Yeah another 4X4 shop that is very well known replaced the rear u joint 2 days ago when I had the part time np203 kit installed. They were very honest and said only the rear needed replacing and they showed it to me when they were done. I should have taken it back to them instead of trying the other place in town but I used this Longview Driveshaft because that's what their expertise is. There is no doubt to me that the rear drive shaft needs to be rebuilt but this other stuff just seems like price gouging. So if the new u joint fits in there great then their would be no other reason to replace the pinion yoke?
 
rgretzinger said:
So I took it in to Longview Driveshaft and they said that I needed a new pinion yoke, rebuild the driveshaft and then they said that I need to replace the u-joints. I replaced one of the ujoints yesterday and they acted like I need new ones. All of this was going to cost $400. That sounds really high. What all do I really need. I don't trust this guy but the $80 I have already paid this guy to diagnose the problem will go towards the $400. I can already tell you, I don't like this place. It's a bring it in and let us look at it place and then try to rape you afterwards.
Click to expand...

You may have a bad taste for this shop, and that's your decision. But let me point out a few things for you to understand a shops point of view. And no, I'm not affiliated with that shop nor have I done business with them before.

A shop can't diagnose a problem like that over the phone or even just by looking at it. So, 'bring it in and let us look at it' is right on the money. They need to test drive and maybe even drive it while in the air on a lift. And then maybe get in there to take some stuff apart to at least find out what the problem is. A technician is not doing this for free, they need to pay that tech for their time, $80 isn't out of the ordinary (not that the tech sees 80 they'll be lucky to get 20 of that, the rest goes to overhead of the shop). This diag fee is usually applied to the repair quote.

When a repair shop quotes for a repair, they should quote the complete job. So, if they quoted you a d-shaft rebuild, they should include new u-joints cause they have no idea if the ones previously put in are any good or if they were even installed correctly, etc. Basically what I'm saying is that, if they don't know the history they are going to start from scratch with all new stuff. Especially for a d-shaft rebuild, new u-joints are a small expense to make it right from end to end. The yoke may simply have some slop in it. I don't think they would've quoted it for the heck of it. But they should be able to tell you why it needs to be replaced and you should ask.

Sorry for the rant, not picking on you. It's just some people don't know what it takes to diagnose cars and problems like this and what it takes to repair it right. Not having this info can very easily make a customer question whatever shop they bring their car to.
 
I wouldnt go to Longview Drive Shaft unless you are planning on dropping your whole tax return on the repair. They are proud of their work. They quoted me 1200 for a gear swap...
 
That's my gut felling as well. As I thought about it some more to rebuild and balance rear drive shaft and replace the pinion yoke and u joints I'm looking at $380. If they do a good job that's really not that bad. I just felt that I might not need all of that work done. Other drive shaft shops in town want around 300-400 for just the drive shaft rebuild.
 
In that case, go! Then we can go to barnwell and break it again haha
 
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