Wagoneer Flat Top Knuckles

[Mudbug1979]

I have a buddy of mine who has 1 or 2 Flat tops off of a waggy D44. What is the difference between this and the GM Flat tops? I'm currently running a converted 10b and I'm looking to do the crossover. Also, seen some posts where people are saying that I would need to get both knuckles so that my TRE's will go in, in the correct position. (bottom or top mount) What exactly were they talking about, I only want to do this once until I get my D60. Thanks for the info as always.

 

[Mudbug1979]

Ttt

Bueller,......... bueller?

 

[BigOrange90Jimmy]

A d44 is a d44 is a d44, no matter what it was under of that era.

They are right on getting both knuckles though. Some models used a tie rod that went through the bottom of the arm, others came from the top side. You don't want to have your knuckle with the tie rod mounted on top, with the pass. side mounted on the bottom. Also, the tie rod ends may be different sizes, so getting both you'd be sure to have it right.

But if you want to ensure that you have it right, you could buy Hi-steer arms for both sides and not even worry which side the tie rod end taper is on.

 

[big4x4ride]

d44 is a d44 BUT there are different knuckles. Some are 5 bolt spindle some are 6. You need the 6 bolt for a chevy. ALSO dodges are 6 bolt, but will not work with teh chevy backign plate without some grinfing and modifying. The wagoneer ones will swap direct however. BE sure to get both to make sur eteh tierod will be same on each side as stated earlier.

 

[Hossbaby50]

I am running Jeep knuckles on my Chevy 10 bolt front with crossover. I have lowsteer crossover. You do need both knuckles because the tierod will now mount from the top instead of the bottom like 10 bolt knuckles.

Jeep knuckles have 2 quirks you need to know about.

The spindle bolts are clocked a little bit from chevy's. This does not cause a problem unless you run a steering arm spacer which I would HIGHLY recommend against doing anyway. If you did run a spacer the rear brake caliper bolt is directly behind the steering arm stud which means you have to remove the steering arm stud to get the caliper off. I learned this the hard way. My solution was run a bolt in that steering arm studhole and clearence grind the bolt head to clear the caliper bolt. Like mentioned above though don't run the spacer. I can explain if you like but it has been covered alot by my in the past.

The driver side knuckle is also a flattop. There are no steering studs in it either. The problem with this is that if you want to convert to hysteer down the road you will have to get it machined for steering studs. The other problem with that is if you break your crossover steering you can not convert back to stock steering to get you off the trail.

The solution is using a Chevy driverside knuckle from a flattop set. The drivers side knuckle from flattop sets are often not used by lots of people and should be cheap. It will allow you to convert to hysteer later if you like and you can also convert back to stock steering if you break the steering arm bolts while you are four wheeling.

Running the Chevy driverside knuckle has saved my arse once already from being stranded in BFE.

Harley