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Wanting to wire in a switch for ignition-security/theft protection

WJACKSON11X

1/2 ton status
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Mar 12, 2007
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Madison,GA
On one of my K5's that I used to own, the PO had put a toggle under the dash that when "off" would not allow truck to turn over. I'm wanting to do this on my '91 Burb and need some help on which wire to break. Has anyone done this or know which wire I need to break?
 
The thick purple wire going to the neutral safety switch on the steering colum ,it comes from the ignition and eventually leads to the starter solenoid...it wont crank if you interrupt that one..
 
The thick purple wire going to the neutral safety switch on the steering colum ,it comes from the ignition and eventually leads to the starter solenoid...it wont crank if you interrupt that one..

That's what I needed to know. Thank you sir, I'll check it out.
 
Why not just pull the ECM or fuel pump fuse(s)?? If you want to be sneaky, replace them with burnt out ones.

Solely my own opinion, mucking up factory wiring is not a good idea.
 
Pulling fuses every time I turn the truck off is not my idea of convenient. If it was going to sit for a while, then yes your idea would be the best. I don't daily drive it, but I do drive a bit during hunting season. As far as mucking up the factory wiring, it's just cutting a wire and adding a hidden toggle switch. Not a big deal in my opinion. I just want something to prevent a thief from easily stealing my ride.
 
just hide it well, a switch under the dash is pretty obvious to a thief.

I've had them in my ash tray, center console, rear ash tray, under the seat etc. On one of my Honda's I used the factory AC button :D
 
Up to you, your rig. All it takes is a screwdriver across the starter terminals to bypass a kill switch you install the way you are talking. It would be better on the ECM wire.

What will happen is that someone will break the window, smash the column, THEN figure out it won't run in any case. So you'll end up with a damaged rig. You'll still have it, but it will be damaged and require repair. Column pieces aren't cheap if even available. Kill switches aren't a deterrent, the thief doesn't know until he's already broken in.

This is what I use to prevent people from stealing it, and hopefully prevent them from even breaking into the rig since the hammer on column method won't work: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-GM-Cadi...ard-/381043451799?hash=item58b7f5a797&vxp=mtr
 
I seldom lock my doors. I don't keep anything in the burb. I have looked into the column guards, but the ones I saw were a lot more than that. I may get one at only $86:D
That work better than "The Club"? I'm open for suggestions on what others have done, so thanks on your input. Another reason I like this place:waytogo:
 
Up to you, your rig. All it takes is a screwdriver across the starter terminals to bypass a kill switch you install the way you are talking. It would be better on the ECM wire.

I always killed the fuel pump or something in the ignition circuit.

I'd rather HAVE my car with a broken window and punched out ignition over a stolen car.
 
I suspect for most thieves the club would be adequate. you'd have to be equipped with something to cut the wheel (or break windshield out, which isn't easy either), which isn't tough, but you aren't doing it with a pair of pliers. If they've got the time and tools to get around that, they'd probably have time/tools to get around anything. Or a flatbed.
 
I always killed the fuel pump or something in the ignition circuit.

I'd rather HAVE my car with a broken window and punched out ignition over a stolen car.

So why introduce a failure point vs. something that deters them from breaking into it in the first place, PLUS keeps the rig in your hands? The options are out there to do so.

In a TBI rig you'd have to cut the wire to the tank, or run two switches to cut both fuel pump feeds, otherwise cranking would still get it to run.

Trust me...I totally understand easy solutions. I also don't like having crap fail on me, which electrical will, always, at some point. I tend to go the overboard/bulletproof method if I have to address a perceived issue, the column guard IMO is the bulletproof solution here. It kills both problems (deterrence and loss prevention) at the same time.
 
I think you're heavily exaggerating the failure rate of some some wire and a switch. Even if it fails, how hard is it twist a couple wires together? Never had a failure anyway but maybe I do it right in the first place.

Since the thief can see your fancy lock from the window I would imagine it would be pretty easy to be prepared for it right?

and do you really think it's bulletproof :eek1:
 
All I have to say is "trailer wiring". I'm not stating failure is going to happen any time soon, but at some point it will. That's it. It's a calculated risk (as is running EFI vs. carb, etc.), and if the reward is worth it for you, that's all that matters. You do introduce another variable to troubleshooting if something doesn't work right, and I would assume most would bury a kill switch such that twisting two wires together isn't that easy?

The column guard is bulletproof as it pertains to someone with a hammer walking through a parking lot looking for a GM to steal, plus hopefully prevents them from even causing damage to the vehicle in the first place. Not 100%, but a shot at that. Preparing for a thief with hours of time and unlimited tools at his disposal, or a flatbed, isn't practical for any of us. A situation between that extreme and the guy with a hammer is open.
 
All I have to say is "trailer wiring". I'm not stating failure is going to happen any time soon, but at some point it will. That's it. It's a calculated risk (as is running EFI vs. carb, etc.), and if the reward is worth it for you, that's all that matters. You do introduce another variable to troubleshooting if something doesn't work right, and I would assume most would bury a kill switch such that twisting two wires together isn't that easy?

The whole rig is going to fail at some point right? :dunno:


And no it wouldn't be hard to find a couple wires you ran and twist them together. Like I said before, I've done this on several cars never had an issue.


In the end nothing will stop the determined thief with the right resources however I don't see any issue adding a kill switch if you do it right.
 
You can just unplug the connector at the neutral safety and use male & female solderless connectors to wire in the toggle switch,so there wont be any butchery of the factory wiring..be aware adding more wire and a switch that might introduce more resistance could possibly cause lower voltage to the starter solenoid and make it not want to kick in and crank,so be sure you use good wire and switch,and have good connections..

For every thing you can do to prevent theft,thieves always have a way around it..the club is easily defeated,you can bend the steering wheel by hand far enough to unhook one..I own 2 of them and rarely use them..

One thing I have done to my truck to prevent theft,is to take off the colum shifter lever--after years of use,the pin holding it in to the steering colum is loose enough to be pushed out easily with the ignition key,and the lever just slides right out..I then lock the lever and pin in the glove box,or the tool box in the bed...though you could take the shift linkage off at the tranny and get it in drive,you cant unlock the colum unless they pull the ignition switch out too..
 
I do this, and pull the fuse for the ECM out. It's not really a bother.

 
Wow! this turned in to quite the debate. I Don't live in the middle of the city, so my chances of having it stolen are far less than others. I was just wanting something simple that could slow down a lazy thief. Definetly not putting a chain around the pedals and seat, although a great way to deter a thief.

I think I will just wire in a hidden toggle and take my chances on faulty wiring. Thanks for the suggestions and comments
 
Here's an idea for ya.

Cut the small B+ wire on the starter and put a relay inline.
Use the power for your parking lights (or anything else) to power the relay.
This way you can only start it with the parking lights on.
 
Here's an idea for ya.

Cut the small B+ wire on the starter and put a relay inline.
Use the power for your parking lights (or anything else) to power the relay.
This way you can only start it with the parking lights on.

That's actually pretty clever!
 
Another thing I have heard of people doing is wiring your bright lights switch as a kill switch (if your truck has the brights switch on the floor). Guys said they use the brights switch as the kill switch them wired the brights to a toggle switch on the dash or something. I thought that was a pretty cool idea, can't start the truck till you tap the floor switch.
 
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