warn hub install help

[chevy_mud_84]

im putting new standard warn hubs in my truck to replace the old ones cuz i grenaded one hub. so the new hub went in just fine on the passenger side of the truck but it wont go all the way in on the drivers side. It wont go back far enough for me to put the hub retainer ring in place. i need this fixed fast im tired of listening to my hub grind and make noises when i drive cuz i had to put the old blown hub back in so i could get home that night. also the old warn hub from the passenger side that was still good it wont even go in far enough on the drivers side for the ring. i dont get it.
thanks
Josh

 

[adamforsythe]

This same thing happen to me and a buddy when we installed them on his F-150. We got the pass side in just fine. But the driver side would not go in far enough. We just left it out. It does not grind. It still works. We even took the hub back apart 3,000-4,000 miles later it was in good shape.
Thanks
Adam

 

[broc944]

Is it that the hub will not go in all the way, or the fact that the shaft has moved in, take a screw driver and push the stub shaft out at the ujoint, there is some play there you may not see, I had the same thing happen to me, just wedged a screwdriver in to keep the shaft from pushing back in and I had enoough room to install the snap ring.

 

[chevy_mud_84]

i did put the screw driver back there to push the shaft out farther but its thats big thin lock ring for the hub that i cant get in cuz the hub itself wont go back far enugh. it wont go back inside the housing far enough for me to get the big ring inside the grove in the housing.

 

[chevy_mud_84]

so no one knows how to help me!!!!!?????? Guess my trucks off the road longer then i expected now. Thanks for whatever help you gave anyways, even if it doesnt fix my situation.

 

[Cornfield creations]

Check to see if there is a burr on one of the splines. Clean everything off and inspect it closely, there is something stopping it, whether it be in the hub housing or the hub itself. Are the bearings adjusted correctly? Take every option into consideration because something is stopping it if it isn't going in all the way. It may possibly be a faulty hub, sometimes new parts are messed up from production.

 

[pvfjr]

Try switching sides. We took apart a D44 from a Wagoneer last month, got the hubs mixed up, and the driver's side would NOT go back in. It just flat out wasn't going into the housing far enough. I noticed that it was just flat out stopping like it was hitting a brick wall, didn't feel like it was binding or anything like that. We pulled the other hub back out to compare them, and I'll be darned if the splines on the body of one hub wasn't 1/16" longer than the other hub. We switched sides, and it went in like butter. I don't understand...

 

[SAK-5]

snap rings dont work on some axles with hubs, same problem on my k-5 called warn and they say throw snap ring away,

 

[goldwing2000]

snap rings dont work on some axles with hubs, same problem on my k-5 called warn and they say throw snap ring away,

That's true for the external snap ring on the axle but I'm pretty sure the large internal snap ring is what actually holds the locking hub in place.

chevy_mud_84, I can e-mail you the instruction sheet that Warn sent me and you can judge for yourself.

You may have your wheel bearing assembled incorrectly. If the washer between the bearing nuts isn't on the pin on the internal nut, it will cause the outer nut to stick out too far. The Warn instructions state this also.

7.B. Install the washer so that it is seated against the bearing adjustment nut, and tighten the wheel bearing lock nut to the manufacture’s recommended torque. The pin in the bearing adjustment nut MUST be seated into a hole in the washer when installed. If the washer is not aligned correctly the wheel bearing lock nut will be approximately 1/8 inch too far outboard and will interfere with the hublock.